My facet mechanical to electric fuel pump conversion review.

[The_Josh_Bear]

The Schaefer

Is the schrader valve post filter?

Schrader valve is pre-filter. Just the vacuum port is post-filter. The vac port is where my gauge was hooked up when testing, worked good

 

[Kevo1288]

The valves can fail, but more than likely it’s a piece of old shower head that could be sucked up into the line. You can unhook your feed line and blow back to tank to be sure it’s clear of debris.

So I think this may be the issue after further observation, if its idling the lights off, give it gas and boom light comes on and stays on until the truck goes back to an idle for 5-10 seconds minimum. Damn plastic. Ill blow lines out this weekend and see whatsup.

 

[riphip]

Also check to be sure your pre-pump filter is not clogged. Lot of junk gets caught in there. $5 fuel filter change is not a waste of money

 

[lakesurfer]

I put a Facet pump on this year and struggled with the "Fuel Filter" light for a while. I had to really feather the throttle to keep the light off. WOT was not an option, and it was really frustrating. HOWEVER I finally found the problem and it has been fine ever since!:

On the driver's side of the factory fuel filter head, there is a hose that runs to the return fuel plumbing (I think). During my installation/troubleshooting, I had disconnected this at some point. Unfortunately, it had a check ball and spring in it that dropped into oblivion without my noticing. So whenever the IP had a high demand, the pump couldn't keep up. I couldn't locate the factory part, so I put an in-line check valve in place and it has worked great ever since. (I used Farmunion #KQZHF or X0013QZ5B5 from Amazon, because I was re-using from another project, but verify your barb size needed before ordering). This proved to me that the "Fuel Filter" light sensor was not bad, and that I was, in fact, in danger of starving my IP.

NOTE: I know there are some years where there is a Ford Tech Bulletin directing this to be plugged. Two things: 1. I tried that. Didn't help me. 2. My 1993 is not a part of that tech bulletin as far as I could read.

Caveats: I use my truck mostly as a daily driver, and rarely haul loads of consequence, so that bit is untested and YMMV.

Now I am back to LOVING my Facet pump and LOVING electric priming. I added a button under the hood so I can prime without the key installed.

Joe

1993 F350 Crew Cab RWD, Single Rear Wheel, 5-Speed, 7.3L IDIT, VIN C

 

[Kevo1288]

I put a Facet pump on this year and struggled with the "Fuel Filter" light for a while. I had to really feather the throttle to keep the light off. WOT was not an option, and it was really frustrating. HOWEVER I finally found the problem and it has been fine ever since!:

On the driver's side of the factory fuel filter head, there is a hose that runs to the return fuel plumbing (I think). During my installation/troubleshooting, I had disconnected this at some point. Unfortunately, it had a check ball and spring in it that dropped into oblivion without my noticing. So whenever the IP had a high demand, the pump couldn't keep up. I couldn't locate the factory part, so I put an in-line check valve in place and it has worked great ever since. (I used Farmunion #KQZHF or X0013QZ5B5 from Amazon, because I was re-using from another project, but verify your barb size needed before ordering). This proved to me that the "Fuel Filter" light sensor was not bad, and that I was, in fact, in danger of starving my IP.

NOTE: I know there are some years where there is a Ford Tech Bulletin directing this to be plugged. Two things: 1. I tried that. Didn't help me. 2. My 1993 is not a part of that tech bulletin as far as I could read.

Caveats: I use my truck mostly as a daily driver, and rarely haul loads of consequence, so that bit is untested and YMMV.

Now I am back to LOVING my Facet pump and LOVING electric priming. I added a button under the hood so I can prime without the key installed.

Joe

1993 F350 Crew Cab RWD, Single Rear Wheel, 5-Speed, 7.3L IDIT, VIN C

if your 93 isn't in there then my 94 isn't, I did undo some lines but I cannot remember which to be honest... hmmm

 

[Kevo1288]

Also check to be sure your pre-pump filter is not clogged. Lot of junk gets caught in there. $5 fuel filter change is not a waste of money

Prepump filter?

 

[riphip]

$5 inline clear filter with band clamps closest to fuel switch valve within 1 foot. 3/8" ends on filter. I keep a couple of extras

 

[Kevo1288]

$5 inline clear filter with band clamps closest to fuel switch valve within 1 foot. 3/8" ends on filter. I keep a couple of extras

I don't have one lol

 

[79jasper]

Facet needs all the help it can get, I wouldn't want any extra restrictions.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Kevo1288]

Ive been noticing when my light goes out the truck gets extra pep in its step. So I am thinking the shower heads broke, when I stop and fill the tank up, the light wont come on for a while, then comes on and stays on (im assuming again, shower head pieces restricting).

 

[Thewespaul]

When you get that burst of power, it’s from pressure dropping and air getting introduced into the fuel. When air passes through the ip, the metering valve opens up to purge the air. This is what gave you the whiff of power. I think make sure your unrestricted on the feed, make sure your screen on the inlet of the pump is clear and if all that turns out to be good, get a different pump.

 

[DrCharles]

My Facet 40285 (on the fender) has a filter bowl & screen which I believe is on the inlet side.
I have never had a problem with the light coming on, or a lack of fuel. Although I haven't put a gauge on it yet - no reason to since it runs great.

Well, except for the first day I put it on... the truck suddenly lost some power as it warmed up. I quickly discovered that I'd tapped the relay trigger wire to the fast idle wire instead of the FSS! So when the truck warmed up enough to come off fast idle, it also turned off the fuel pump entirely.

Also the manufacturer doesn't say anything about them being pushers instead of pullers. In fact all the Dura-Lift pumps are rated to 10 ft. (120") lift?
https://www.facet-purolator.com/dura-lift/

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

My Facet 40285 (on the fender) has a filter bowl & screen which I believe is on the inlet side.
I have never had a problem with the light coming on, or a lack of fuel. Although I haven't put a gauge on it yet - no reason to since it runs great.

Well, except for the first day I put it on... the truck suddenly lost some power as it warmed up. I quickly discovered that I'd tapped the relay trigger wire to the fast idle wire instead of the FSS! So when the truck warmed up enough to come off fast idle, it also turned off the fuel pump entirely.

Also the manufacturer doesn't say anything about them being pushers instead of pullers. In fact all the Dura-Lift pumps are rated to 10 ft. (120") lift?
https://www.facet-purolator.com/dura-lift/

Yes the 50 micron filter/screen is on the inlet side.
And I bet it wasnt much fun to have the pump shut off with the fast idle circuit! Haha i almost did that myself.
From that same website you linked, in the FAQs:

"Can I mount the pump in my car's engine compartment?
We recommend that you mount the fuel pump no more that 12 inches from the fuel supply (gas tank). All our Electronic fuel pumps will push fuel rather than pull fuel. Some pumps only have suction limit of 12 inches, therefore you should mount as close as possible to the tank."

Now obviously with a vertical pull of 120" this pump is totally capable of pulling. I was just quoting what the manufacturer said. And I only mentioned it with the idea that maybe the same pump supplies better GPH as a pusher instead of a puller, but I haven't tested that yet.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

I'm gunna call swagelock and order a 5psi poppet valve to see if it helps before I pull the fittings off and port em out some.

You have seen the other threads on this issue?yes?

edit
mine is from genlightnings group buy.
iF it matters I can climb under the rig and get a pn...

I put the swedgelock relief valve in some time back. It helped stabilize the pressure somewhat, be sure to get the adjustable one.

However I'm unhappy with WOT fuel psi getting way too close to going into negative at WOT.

I like the reliability of the Facet Duralift. Just not enough GPH on the one that is commonly used. There is another that is 50 GPH I want to try the PSI is like 12 if I remember correctly, The swedgelock valve should take care of that now.

I built a 60 PSI system with a regulator once. It worked well but lost prime or was hard to prime.
Looking back there should have been an orficed air bleed line. It wouldn't prime because it had to build up enough fuel pressure to open the regulator to eliminate air.

 

[tbrumm]

I put the swedgelock relief valve in some time back. It helped stabilize the pressure somewhat, be sure to get the adjustable one.
There is another that is 50 GPH I want to try the PSI is like 12 if I remember correctly, The swedgelock valve should take care of that now.

Do you have a pic or part number of this adjustable swedgelock relief valve? I assume this valve will alllow you to limit the fuel pressure that the IP sees?

Is this the Facet pump you are considering using?https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=9671