leaking passenger side head gasket

[69dieselfreak]

i value u guys input very much parts list needed who to get the parts from and what not and any suggestions along the way my buget is 600 give or take to get the job done rite and not have to go back in and do it again the truck has 130000 mile on it im going to pull the engine so far this is what ive been thinking of
1 fel pro gasket set
2 head studs
3 rods and mains
4 injector nozzles
5 clutch/south bend maybe
6 rebuild or rebuilt heads what should i do with those im lost on this one
im probably over buget here but i want to it rite and cost effective if it means spending mor moeny then i will
thanks again guys

 

[Diesel JD]

I hate to say it but you're going to have to take some of those items off the list. If you're going to have it out, Rod and main bearings are a good idea, new head gaskets, studs if you can afford them(you need to afford them since it sounds like you're going for big performance) pressure check and magnaflux the heads and do the oil cooler orings.

 

[69dieselfreak]

not to big peformance but realiable peformance that is the goal

 

[RLDSL]

Might want to reconsider your parts list, or at least the Felpro head gaskets.
Leaking head gaskets seems to be a big problem with these things, and everyone is using felpro head gaskets. Anyone see a connection here?
I used one set of felpro head gaskets on mine first time I did them and I couldn't believe the flimsy soft cheap cruddy things.

I worked on european diesels for years and they all used the victor reinz gaskets and they are a much sturdier gasket and I've never had a failure ( reinz makes all the factory gaskets for all those high tech diesels coming out of europe now as well). a common practice on those things is to take spray hylomar and give a few light, even coats on the head gaskets before installation. been doing it for years. Never had a failure. just did that on my 7.3 that I put together. I don't plan on ever having any leaks on that thing
Many of the new european model ones come coated with hylomar from the factory now.
Something to consider.

 

[towcat]

Might want to reconsider your parts list, or at least the Felpro head gaskets.
Leaking head gaskets seems to be a big problem with these things, and everyone is using felpro head gaskets. Anyone see a connection here?
I used one set of felpro head gaskets on mine first time I did them and I couldn't believe the flimsy soft cheap cruddy things.

I worked on european diesels for years and they all used the victor reinz gaskets and they are a much sturdier gasket and I've never had a failure ( reinz makes all the factory gaskets for all those high tech diesels coming out of europe now as well). a common practice on those things is to take spray hylomar and give a few light, even coats on the head gaskets before installation. been doing it for years. Never had a failure. just did that on my 7.3 that I put together. I don't plan on ever having any leaks on that thing
Many of the new european model ones come coated with hylomar from the factory now.
Something to consider.

i too am a fan of Victor gaskets but you're looking to get tarred and feathered by the gang here. I suspect with his mileage on his motor, he's got factory originals which sucked from the start. Rods and mains are unnecessary with this mileage.
pull the motor. do the gaksets and other consumables. reinstall. be happy.

 

[Agnem]

I like the IH gaskets myself. They have revised them several times trying to improve them. The real issue is the head bolts though. Go to studs, and it probably won't matter what brand you choose.

 

[69dieselfreak]

if im going to pull the engine which i dont have a problem with but i want to take care of the thing that need to be taken care of when i pull it so i dont have to go back and jerk it out again for a stupid mistake that i had left out
thanks for all the info apperciate it very much

 

[icanfixall]

ARP is the place for studs. The part number for the 7.3 studs is AR7.00-lb. They are 7 inches long and about 1/4 inch too long so be careful when you use a socket on them. They come thru the socket and will interfere with the inside of the socket and that touching with change the torque value. Also be sure to torque and loosen them 5 times. Doing this will seat the nut, washer and stud together. Otherwise the torque will be wrong. I did this and found the nuts turned down almost another turn before they tightened to the 100 lbs of torque. ARP also makes a very good Molly lube. If you don't use theirs then you add 30 lbs to the finished torque. Ebay has a set for head gaskets for $44.00. Its part number HS9047 and it covers the top end. Don't use a pan gasket. Most here like me will use RTV. I like permatex copper plus but Hylomar is about the best. It can be found at aircraft repair shops and it made Rolls Royse motors seal up. Even the big Merlin motors use it. Great stuff...

 

[69dieselfreak]

ARP is the place for studs. The part number for the 7.3 studs is AR7.00-lb. They are 7 inches long and about 1/4 inch too long so be careful when you use a socket on them. They come thru the socket and will interfere with the inside of the socket and that touching with change the torque value. Also be sure to torque and loosen them 5 times. Doing this will seat the nut, washer and stud together. Otherwise the torque will be wrong. I did this and found the nuts turned down almost another turn before they tightened to the 100 lbs of torque. ARP also makes a very good Molly lube. If you don't use theirs then you add 30 lbs to the finished torque. Ebay has a set for head gaskets for $44.00. Its part number HS9047 and it covers the top end. Don't use a pan gasket. Most here like me will use RTV. I like permatex copper plus but Hylomar is about the best. It can be found at aircraft repair shops and it made Rolls Royse motors seal up. Even the big Merlin motors use it. Great stuff...

will the 7.3 studs work for my 6.9

 

[69dieselfreak]

wile my engine is out is there any other problems that i need to adress that might occur in the future of my build up

 

[hesutton]

will the 7.3 studs work for my 6.9

Nope. Different size.

As far as headgaskets go.........Everyone likes different things, but I've never had trouble with Felpro's.

Heath

 

[icanfixall]

The ARP 7.3 studs wont fit the 6.9. The 7.3 size is 1/2 inch and the 6.9 is 7/16 diameter. Arp does make a complete set of studs for the 6.9 and Summit sells them cheaper than ARP can or will. I don'y know why but give both a call. Just follow the ARP instructions carefully.

 

[69dieselfreak]

will do definatly

 

[69dieselfreak]

priced every thing out that i wanted to do SOB its getting pricy
clutch is out of the question i think unless i can talk the girlfreind to letting me borrow some $$ no cant do that then shell be ******** at me u could have bought me something with that moeny or some **** like that id never here the end of that so well i guess ill start my fun at spending some moeny on the good stuff

 

[Diesel JD]

I tend to agree with towcat that the rods and mains are unneccessary maintenance items at 130,000 miles. They usually do not break in this application unless the motor is severely abused or run out of oil. Also, not knowing you or your skill level, what are the chances that just by virtue of you messing with it, something might not go back together right and crap might break. You can disregard that if you're an experienced home mechanic or mechanic by trade.... I wouldn't want to insult you, but for me as a novice it would be a huge worry. Even so, do you really want to do all that work if you don't really need to? Those items might be needed if the truck has little to no oil pressure or bad knocking noises. Now is the time to address this. I'd say you can come by a clutch kit for that T19 for around $120 brand new on ebay if you look, thats what I was seeing when I was looking for the disk only... Now about the ARP studs, they're great for performance capability and for a 6.9, actually quite affordable, but you MUST follow Gary's advice about torqeing and retorqueing the studs the specified number of times, and you really have to make sure your torque wrench is on the money. It seems like thats how people...experienced home mechanics that know a lot more about these engines than I've forgotten, have screwed up with the studs.
You should have a price list like this
Intake gasket $65.00
Head gasket/set $120.00
ARP Studs $229.00
Machine shop work $150
Misc. $50
Total $504