Intercooler install- need you help!

[reklund]

Intercooler install- need your help!

Ok guys, I'm FINALLY getting around to installing my ATS intercooler on my 92 F-250. Normally, this would be a bolt-in deal, except that I'm using the old non-wastegated ATS turbo kit. I need some suggestions. I've read the "Lets talk intercoolers" thread a hundred times, but was hoping for some additional input, as mine will be a little more of a custom-fab job.


Problem 1: The giant ATS airbox is right in the way of everything. I need a custom intake setup, that will free up some space behind the IP and around the intake "hat" area. It must incorporate some sort of mount for the CDR (I'm not draining the CDR into the valve cover, but into a Banks IP cover adaptor, so exact positioning isn't important)

Problem 2: The supplied ATS upper intercooler pipes are of no use with my turbo system. Furthermore, ATS no longer makes the cast aluminum "Hat" that was once part of their intercooler kit (I've got an extra hat that I tig'ed a piece of tubing to, so that intercooler pipes can be coupled to it with a silicone coupler) I need custom upper hardpipes, and they've gotta be mandrel bent. NO muffler shop crush bends for me! Should I just buy pre-bent sections and weld them up, or bother with trying to get a couple of pieces custom bent?

Problem 3: In removing my stock ATS intake hat today, I somehow managed to mangle the stock screen that goes over the intake opening. I removed the remaining bent up piece of junk. How important is that screen? I Know it's there to keep junk out of my engine, but will not running it really matter if I keep my air filter clean and hope my turbo compressor wheel doesn't come apart?

I really want to get going on this, as I have a few trips planned this fall and will be using the truck to haul my rockcrawler.

Thanks!
Ryan

 

[Agnem]

Take the big nut off, and that intake screen will come out. You can run without the screen, and with a turbo it probably doesn't do anything anyway, other than just keep stuff from falling in there when you are servicing the engine. In an NA, I'd say keep it, since it will keep a chunk of air filter or something from going in there. In a turbo engine, the turbo is either going to make the pieces small enough to fit through the screen anyway, or fling whatever it is in there hard enough that it's going to go through anyway. If I were you, I'd ditch the ATS air filter all together, and go to a Moose Air style filter setup.

 

[reklund]

Mel-

I got the screen off without problem, just making sure it won't hurt anything....

I'm already tracking down parts to build my own intake. It seems the only way to have everything work out under the hood... I'm planning on welding a flange to a piece of 3" tubing to allow me to mount the CDR, unless you've got a better idea.

Thanks!
Ryan

 

[reklund]

For those with intercoolers: How much pressure drop should I expect with this ATS intercooler and non-wastegated turbo setup?

Would it be worth the time to send the turbo out and have it modified to make some more boost?

Ryan

 

[Agnem]

Well I'm not much for ideas about where to put a CDR other than in the trashcan.

 

[reklund]

Are you just running a RDT on the Moose? I'd love to eliminate the CDR, but don't want oil all over everything... Details, please!

Ryan

 

[Ironman03R]

When I worked at Ford, I seen pieces of an improperly installed air filter on a stock 94 IDI get sucked through the turbo. When we removed the turbo, there were large chucks of the filter gasket and pieces of the turbo on that screen.
If it were my truck, Iwouldnt worry about the screen, but it is still possible to get stuff in the engine without it there.

 

[typ4]

I will see if I can get the kid to post some pics of my intercooler tubing, the hot side is a 04 ps tube with the bend cut and rotated to the turbo outlet. I didnt worry about the ford flat spot in the tube because of lower than ps boost levels. Cold side is a tube out of the wrecking yard but there is no numbers on it to indicate who made it. The intake hat I made out of a propane mixer air cleaner adapter, shortened it and cut the center out then bolted the 04 ps inlet elbow on with a center stud. keep an eye out and I wil get brandon to put some pics on.
I do not know how to do it effectively
russ


BTW anew screen is 13 bucks from ford, I would use it

 

[pafixitman]

Intake manifold screen is called a shield (per Ford).
Part # E3TZ-9F460-A
List should be around $10, cost around $6

 

[reklund]

Thanks guys!

I made some progress today on the intake options. It seems a PSD downpipe (which I happen to have, as it came in my MBRP exhaust, and has been collecting dust in the shed...) has just the right shape to make into a cold air intake, and clear the injector line, the brake booster, and all the crap on the drivers side of the engine. I've gotta order up some silicone adaptors and couplers, but I might get an intake working by the weekend....

Stay tuned!

Ryan

 

[MTIDI]

on a side note, how does your MBRP exhaust sound? compared to 3" with no muffler if you have heard one similar.

 

[reklund]

It sounds pretty good. Much deeper an more consistent than a straight piped 3" system. My buddy has a straight piped truck, and from a distance it sounds like a helicopter....

Mine was designed for a PSD, but I cut and fabbed until it worked with my ATS downpipe. Not a direct bolt-in, but pretty close...

Ryan

 

[SKimballC]

Ryan- I have an intake screen you can have for postage if you want it. PM me if you do.

 

[reklund]

OK UPDATE TIME!

I've abandoned the idea of keeping the CDR setup in favor of a RDT with an in-line catch can.

I've got a GREDDY catch can left over from my Supra build up, and it looks like it'll work well inline to allow the oil vapor to condense before it ends up all over the underside of my truck. Here's a picture:

 

[reklund]

So the plan is to swap the Banks IP cover adapter to face the passenger side, and run from there to this catch can. The problem at the moment is that the Banks IP adaptor is like a 1" discharge nipple, and the catch can is 5/8". Seeing as how its just vapor, I don't figure the drop in size to be a problem for the engine, but rather a problem of how to convert from 1" hose to 5/8" hose without a huge mess of adapters.

I looked at Home Depot and Lowe's today, but didn't really find anything I liked in the way of Hose or Adapters. I can order a barbed reducer to go from 1" to 5/8" from MSC, as long as I don't mind a package of 10...

Assuming that I can get the hose converted down to the 5/8" size easily, I should be able to get this mess hooked up soon. Anyone see any problems with 5/8" line on the RDT?

Ryan