I don't electrical

Scotty4

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Good to hear man. Also 12 minutes flat ha

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Okay I've pulled all wiring for dome and cargo since that was giving me the issue. The cargo light, if @Selahdoor is correct, should receive power from the blk/pk per drawing and energize the other side completing the light circuit. The other side is a ground, when I removed this ground, the light goes out. The issue is the blk/pk for the cargo and blk/blue for the dome are connected at the diode. Ive got OL one way and .527 when measuring the diode. Quick google search says thats okay. What am I missing here?
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hacked89

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Bulb circuit. Like a fuse circuit.

Test both leads. One hot, one not.

Now plug in the light or fuse...

Now both leads should test hot.

Because you are now getting hot, to the second lead, THROUGH the bulb or fuse.


That does not constitute a grounded hot. It constitutes a completed circuit.
When you and selahdoor were working together it was lead up to the fact that you don't have a short to ground.
Then some time went by and you were doing my short to ground test.
What happened in between that you determined that was the issue?

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Scotty4

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When you and selahdoor were working together it was lead up to the fact that you don't have a short to ground.
Then some time went by and you were doing my short to ground test.
What happened in between that you determined that was the issue?

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I've always assumed a short to ground on this. If I'm headed in the wrong direction please let me know. I did find the new headlight relay acting funky, so unplugged them and reverted to the old wiring for now.

At this point when the headlight switch is in, there is no short to ground or the light is off while the cargo and domelights are disconnected. When pulled out, both positions illuminate the bulb. I pulled the fuses and the light extinguished on the tail and marker lights with the hl switch clicked out once. Clicked twice for headlights and I got as far as disconnecting the dimmer switch but the light stayed on.

Again, if I'm missing something, please let me know.

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hacked89

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I know you've updated with a lot of info between the two threads.

1. What behavior exactly is happening currently that you suspect short to ground?

2. Can you post the full circuit you are troubleshooting? Looks cut off in the one post

3. Can you mark where you are grounding the light into the hot part of the circuit for #2

Maybe we can have a zoom or webex and the forum joins haha.. It's really tough to troubleshoot a wiring harness over forum IMO.



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Scotty4

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I know you've updated with a lot of info between the two threads.

1. What behavior exactly is happening currently that you suspect short to ground?

2. Can you post the full circuit you are troubleshooting? Looks cut off in the one post

3. Can you mark where you are grounding the light into the hot part of the circuit for #2

Maybe we can have a zoom or webex and the forum joins haha.. It's really tough to troubleshoot a wiring harness over forum IMO.



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Currently I have the light picture below. And the jumper as well. Essentially I removed the headlight switch and am jumping the incoming wire from the fuse, to whichever circuit I am testing.

My truck will not start. With power to the brown marker light wire, I have front left marker and rear left tail light. The rest are dim. If I plug the bulb into the lh side marler light, the front one goes out and the test bulb comes on.

I unhooked the splice for the reverse beeper as well. And plan to clean up all the old trailer wires. Now recall that I installed my gauges first to this brown wire circuit and blew the fuse link. Then swapped to the light blue/red wire for illumination and dimming.

The headlights are not coming on and the test bulb lights when I move the switch as well. I will get back to that later. Want to tackle markers first.

The drawings were like that from Garysgaragemahal.com if you go to documentation>electrical>wiring diagrams>1985. That is where I printed them from. There are a few pages with different engines denoted in a note block on the left hand side. But the lighting is same for all.
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Selahdoor

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Truck won't start.

Is that why you are messing with the headlight and dome light circuits, or did you just mention it as a separate issue?
 

Scotty4

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Truck won't start.

Is that why you are messing with the headlight and dome light circuits, or did you just mention it as a separate issue?
Thats why I'm messing with the headlights since everything is whacky and not working.

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Selahdoor

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Why won't the truck start?

Starter doesn't spin?

Starter spins, but GPs don't work?

Starter and GPs both work, but it just won't start?

Etc.



You can get the truck started and running, even cutting out ALL electrical circuits... Just by putting the fuel shutoff solenoid on a toggle switch. And manually operating the GPs. As long as the starter works. (And you jump the starter at the solenoid on the wheelwell.)

I think you are still just bouncing all over the place. Trying to chase too many problems at the same time.


Wishing I could get my hands on this, myself. But it will be at least two weeks before I can afford to come down there.
 

Selahdoor

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And didn't you do the alternator conversion?

Maybe you got something wrong in that conversion?
 

hacked89

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Why won't the truck start?

Starter doesn't spin?

Starter spins, but GPs don't work?

Starter and GPs both work, but it just won't start?

Etc.



You can get the truck started and running, even cutting out ALL electrical circuits... Just by putting the fuel shutoff solenoid on a toggle switch. And manually operating the GPs. As long as the starter works. (And you jump the starter at the solenoid on the wheelwell.)

I think you are still just bouncing all over the place. Trying to chase too many problems at the same time.


Wishing I could get my hands on this, myself. But it will be at least two weeks before I can afford to come down there.
Same and I agree I feel like the scope of the issue is jumping around.

We all agree to get the truck started first Scotty?
If you answer those questions of Selahdoor.


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Scotty4

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Truck starts with power jumped from positive pole on battery to the maxi fuse. So basically bypassing the alternator. My batteries stay charged just never thought to check.

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Scotty4

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Truck starts with power jumped from positive pole on battery to the maxi fuse. So basically bypassing the alternator. My batteries stay charged just never thought to check.

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To follow up I guess tbat was vague. Nothing works or spins or clicks i. **** current state unless I jump the wire. Then the everything works minus the lighting.

My hazard and turn signals are reaaaaaly slow and glitchy but my switch was new in October. My flashers are both old and gross though.

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DaveBen

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I am surprised you have not burned your truck to the ground! The wires are total garbage. I am not saying this to degrade you. I am stating facts. You need to do something drastic like take it to a GOOD shop and spend some money. You don't have a clue and you will end up making a pile of ashes out of it.
 
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