I don't electrical
- Thread starter Scotty4
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hacked89
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Jeff, I talked to Mike on the phone for about an hour for testing.
He's getting over 11v voltage drop with the key in the run position to 37Y/38BKO. That's why when his buddy jumped those to 12v the truck starts.. And when he pulls the jumper it's all "dead"
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He's getting over 11v voltage drop with the key in the run position to 37Y/38BKO. That's why when his buddy jumped those to 12v the truck starts.. And when he pulls the jumper it's all "dead"
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hacked89
Full Access Member
I'll also add.. It first started after splicing into the marker lights. But he tested removing and moving that splice but no different.
Almost like something half blown or melted.
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I don't know what 37Y/38BKO is.
Here is the way I would approach it...
***It starts when jumpered to the max fuse.
What is between the max fuse and the battery?
I think he said the alternator is 'between them'.
Show me the path. I need to see everything that is between the battery and that max fuse. In such a way that I can visually trace the path.
***If the alternator is the only thing between the fuse and the battery...
First of all, the alternator is charging up the battery. I don't think I'd mess with that setup, myself.
I would check the line that goes between the alternator and the max fuse. Better yet, I'd just replace it with a good 6ga or larger cable.
But... Next, why is there not a permanent connection, (jumper) between the battery and the max fuse?
I have 6ga lines going between the battery and the alternator.
Between the alternator and the point I think his max fuse is.
AND between the battery positive and where his max fuse is.
So there is a kind of triangle of 6ga wire there.
There is NO problem with that setup.
~~~
Once you have that settled, and the truck starts and runs correctly, THEN you can start looking at the headlights and dome light.
Again, the headlights and dome lights should have absolutely no effect on whether the truck starts and runs or not.
Here is the way I would approach it...
***It starts when jumpered to the max fuse.
What is between the max fuse and the battery?
I think he said the alternator is 'between them'.
Show me the path. I need to see everything that is between the battery and that max fuse. In such a way that I can visually trace the path.
***If the alternator is the only thing between the fuse and the battery...
First of all, the alternator is charging up the battery. I don't think I'd mess with that setup, myself.
I would check the line that goes between the alternator and the max fuse. Better yet, I'd just replace it with a good 6ga or larger cable.
But... Next, why is there not a permanent connection, (jumper) between the battery and the max fuse?
I have 6ga lines going between the battery and the alternator.
Between the alternator and the point I think his max fuse is.
AND between the battery positive and where his max fuse is.
So there is a kind of triangle of 6ga wire there.
There is NO problem with that setup.
~~~
Once you have that settled, and the truck starts and runs correctly, THEN you can start looking at the headlights and dome light.
Again, the headlights and dome lights should have absolutely no effect on whether the truck starts and runs or not.
Ok, do as I suggested above.
Put in new 6ga or larger cables.
Battery to alternator. Alternator to max fuse. Max fuse to battery.
Now you are going to have to separate out, each individual circuit for the lights, and check each individual circuit, one by one. Not all at once.
Yeah my question is how does the 6.9 power the fender solenoid? I know on both my 7.3 trucks there's a large either 4ga or 6ga wire from the battery to the fender solenoid, but I don't see that in his picture.
EDIT: I think Jeff and I are thinking along the same lines.
EDIT: I think Jeff and I are thinking along the same lines.
By the way, if you don't have any 6ga wire at hand, just use 4 or 5 pieces of 10ga, all wrapped together at the ends.
If you have an old pair of jumper cables laying around, you could always check them for continuity first, then strip them out for the cables.
If you have an old pair of jumper cables laying around, you could always check them for continuity first, then strip them out for the cables.
Yes. That is exactly what I was talking about.
I think he has put in a max fuse somewhere before or after the fender solenoid.
Truck came with an old set. I have fresh 10 ga hanging around.
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You'll do better cutting out a chunk of the old jumper cables for this cable, than twisting the 10ga wires together.
But either will work.
In the end, if it fixes your problem. do yourself a favor and get a real cable to make that junction.
But either will work.
In the end, if it fixes your problem. do yourself a favor and get a real cable to make that junction.
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/...messed-up-as-i-think-it-is.62899/#post-732428
That post has a picture that shows the large feed wire like mine has just FYI so you can see what I'm talking about.
That post has a picture that shows the large feed wire like mine has just FYI so you can see what I'm talking about.
By the way... Read my instructions slooooooowly. Take your time. Pay attention to details. Read again, just for kicks and grins.
Its easy to make mistakes if you read stuff quickly, and just assume that you know what the person is saying.
Its easy to make mistakes if you read stuff quickly, and just assume that you know what the person is saying.
Yeah that's bitten me many times. Also really easy to get in a hurry because you're frustrated and miss something stupid simple!
First step will be me pulling the alt and unwrapping the cables again to check up further on the black/orange betwern alt and the yellow wire supplying my maxi fuse.
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Can you enlighten me to how the main power is wired? I'm confused why your maxi fuse is there, but I'm not looking at the diagram either. Does the alternator connect to the battery and then from there to the fender solenoid? Trying to figure that out because it's not making sense to me.
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