I don't electrical

Scotty4

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Been digging into my wiring issue and I'm stumped. Ive got a meter and a power probe and am getting nowhere. I drove the truck over to my buddies house and after the visit it wouldn't start. Swapped headlight and ignition switch in his driveway, still nothing. He tried his "international trick" from his army days and it fired right up. Basically jumped power from the hot to my maxi fuse.

My power probe is showing short and open for most of the headlight switch components. Digging into the wiring between alt and fuse link that blew I found some crusty stuff and a broken red/orange wire which looks like it goes to the ammeter per the drawing. I'm going to just start unplugging everything and see what gets better and go from there as my capabilities are nil.

I'm going to solder the red wire back on, but can someone tell me if this broken wire is important enough to mess with currently? Off the I on regulator to a capacitor? Radio break?

Taped wire in my picture is the purple wire removed from my gps for manual button.

Driving home my wife said the taillights and indicators didn't work. I was also down a front right indicator and front left marker light. If only someone were up the street to come over and dig into this I'm sure I've overlooked something.
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Clb

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Start with grounds!
Clean and nolox them.
The open solder joint in the black wire is a cold joint (bad resistance) .
Fix the broken wire (never know what it feeds)
 

Scotty4

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Start with grounds!
Clean and nolox them.
The open solder joint in the black wire is a cold joint (bad resistance) .
Fix the broken wire (never know what it feeds)
Most of the lighting is grounded to splice S-805 and it claims to be located behind the dash which I am not seeing where 10 different wires converge into one.

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hacked89

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You got this Scotty.
It's just tedious.

I had a whole Ferrari dash apart a couple months ago fixing the electrical / short to grounds.
My trick that might help you is I use the factory wiring diagrams, and if it's short to ground I take an old headlight and put the hot to battery and the ground into the circuit that has a short to ground.
Then mark off on the diagram every junction or feed on that circuit.. Next I pull and test the items on that circuit one by one until the headlight goes out. When the headlight goes out you found the short to ground.

Or just move to the east coast and bring it to my house.

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Scotty4

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You got this Scotty.
It's just tedious.

I had a whole Ferrari dash apart a couple months ago fixing the electrical / short to grounds.
My trick that might help you is I use the factory wiring diagrams, and if it's short to ground I take an old headlight and put the hot to battery and the ground into the circuit that has a short to ground.
Then mark off on the diagram every junction or feed on that circuit.. Next I pull and test the items on that circuit one by one until the headlight goes out. When the headlight goes out you found the short to ground.

Or just move to the east coast and bring it to my house.

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If I could drive it I would! I have a test light I can maybe rig up and check. I am almost certain it is one of the four lighting wires off the headlight switch. Cutting the harness apart now looking for anything melted.

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Scotty4

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Is the red/yellow wire for the dimmer switch supposed to be grounded? Its a new switch and connector just trying to figure out. It seems to me that since each light has its own ground then with lightbulb installed, it completes to ground.

Asking for a friend.
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Edit: lg/blk is grounded in high beam position, red/blk is not.

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chillman88

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That dimmer is just a toggle. 1 wire in from the headlight switch and 1 wire out to the high beams, 1 to the low beams.

If you have a ground on any of those with the lights unplugged I'd definitely be looking there. It will probably read as a ground if they're still plugged in though.

EDIT: red/yellow should be open when lights are off and have 12v when headlights are on.
 

Selahdoor

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That dimmer is just a toggle. 1 wire in from the headlight switch and 1 wire out to the high beams, 1 to the low beams.

If you have a ground on any of those with the lights unplugged I'd definitely be looking there. It will probably read as a ground if they're still plugged in though.

EDIT: red/yellow should be open when lights are off and have 12v when headlights are on.
You beat me to it.

I forget whether it is high or low beam, but that wire should be feeding the headlights. Or, if you have installed relays, that should feed the relay that switches the headlights.
 

Scotty4

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That dimmer is just a toggle. 1 wire in from the headlight switch and 1 wire out to the high beams, 1 to the low beams.

If you have a ground on any of those with the lights unplugged I'd definitely be looking there. It will probably read as a ground if they're still plugged in though.

EDIT: red/yellow should be open when lights are off and have 12v when headlights are on.
Red yellow is working correct. With the switch and headlights disconnected the lg/blk wire is grounded somewhere.

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Scotty4

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Okay both the dome and cargo light look alright. That is if the bulb being installed connected to the ground should show the hot is grounded.

Edit: shouldn't this be the case for the high beam indicator light on the dash, hence why the lg/blk wire is grounded at all times?

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Selahdoor

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Bulb circuit. Like a fuse circuit.

Test both leads. One hot, one not.

Now plug in the light or fuse...

Now both leads should test hot.

Because you are now getting hot, to the second lead, THROUGH the bulb or fuse.


That does not constitute a grounded hot. It constitutes a completed circuit.
 

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