how to go on with my E4OD

[Bart F-350]

After that I worked my truck hard (I think the seal from the TC ) gave up on me, and vomited all the oil over the street.
I managed to pull a bit of oil that was left, and that was dark red, almost brown, without any particles in it, didn't smell burned or so, and actually has the same color as the oil in the transfer case.
I wonder if that sort of oil does change color over the years? since It might very well be the original of the factory oil, that would make it 28 years old now...

the truck has stood at least since I bought it in 2005 in the meadow running it only once a month until it warmed up, in order to keep everything from rusting shut, and sort of "supple".

I was advised to at least change that seal, and the bushing, so that's what I'm gonna do.
I do wonder, if I could use the following oil?
Texaco, with the following spec's: M2C138-CJ ou M2C166-H and Caterpillar TO-2, Aisin Warner T-III, GM Dexron-IIIG, Ford Mercon, Allison C4, Man 339 Type V1, Voith 55.6335.3x, ZF TE-ML 04D, 09, 17C.
would that do?


Or this one:Castrol Transmax Dex III Multivehicle



Castrol Allison C4
Allison TES 389
Meets Ford Mercon®
GM Dexron® IIIH
MAN 339 Z1
MAN 339 V1
MB-Approval 236.9
Voith H55.6335.xx
Volvo 97340, 97341
ZF TE-ML 04D, 14A

 

[trackspeeder]

You can use any fluid with Mercon or MerconV ratings.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes ATF will change color naturally over time.

 

[Bart F-350]

Two days ago I pulled some oil left over in the gearbox, I had to pull ti from the cooler lines, ant they run dry quickly.
The oil was a dark red, almost brown without any contaminants in it, the oil has the same color as the oil from the transfer case, so I think that the discolorisation is cause by the old age of those oils?
neither does the oil smells burned, which is a good sign I think.

Today I tried to pull codes from my E4OD.
I did this by bypassing the eecplug and selftestplug under the bonnet.
Then I tried by turning the key and have a good look at the "engine" light at the dash.
nothing happened.
Then I tried the same thing, but before turning the ign. key I floored the accelerator pedal, and had a look at the OD switch light, that flashed short only one time, that's all.
I tried another time by putting a test light into the opposite contact from the eec test plug, and have the other end connected to the + of the battery. this didn't do a thing.neither when I turned the ign. key.

So I guess other that a short of trans fluid, and a faible TC seal, it seems ok????

Please correct me if you think I'm wrong.
Thanks

 

[nostrokes]

Dark red is normal. The fluid gets hot so discoloration is normal. The longer it's in there the more brown/black it's going to get from heat and contamination from parts wearing. I'd change the seal and filter, clean off the magnet too everyone seems to forget that, fill her up and run the hell out of it to make sure it's going to hold together, not just around the block either. Get her out and really open her up.....

 

[Bart F-350]

I heard speaking about these shift improver kits, should I do that? and so, which is the best?
My intended use is a camper, and I should be able to tow a 3000kg trailer with it.

 

[Bart F-350]

Mmmmm, I have to drive 500 miles for a good trans shop (over here in europe most cars have manual boxes), and they charge me quite a bit of money, and then two weeks later I have to drive back to get the gearbox.
What would it take to convert My '89 F-350 7.3 IDI 4x4 to a manual box? is there a preferred box (I thought I heard speaking about a 5 or a 6 box?)

Where could I eventually get one, (complete with flywheel, clutch and clutch pedal?)
and what would cost such a operation?

having a look if it would be cost effective?

 

[trackspeeder]

I heard speaking about these shift improver kits, should I do that? and so, which is the best?
My intended use is a camper, and I should be able to tow a 3000kg trailer with it.

TransGo Tugger kit, or Sonnax Sure Cure. Both are very good kits.

 

[Bart F-350]

EUUhhh, I have to lower my E4OD, and it's a 4x4, never done that before, anyone kind enough to pass me some good pointers on what to think of?(or not to forget!!)

working outside, on the side of the street, have no proffessional trans jacks at my disposal :-((

 

[Thewespaul]

Take the transfer case off first if you don’t have a trans jack

 

[icanfixall]

The E4OD trans is heavy at around 300 pounds.Just be careful. Also you will need about 30 inches on ground clearance to get the trans out from under the lowest parts of the truck or van.

 

[Golden Helmet]

If it's the front pump seal that's leaking, you can order a better-than-OEM seal here. And if you don't have one already, put a beefy transmission cooler on your truck because these E4OD's just love to melt down.

I have no advice for pulling the transmission though. When my seal blew, I took the cowards way out and let a shop deal with it, I just gave them the parts and told them what I wanted done (and, obviously, agreed that there was no warranty for this job). No trans jack + crowded and sloped driveway + no skill = just suck it up and let the pro's do their thing

 

[Bart F-350]

@Golden Helmet, I had a silicone seal in there, Yesterday arrived a viton one, is this one so much better??? you have experience with it?

bloody trans shop is 500 miles away, that's a lot of pushing!!!
I guess I've to take the "hero's" way out, and do it myself??

 

[Golden Helmet]

@Golden Helmet, I had a silicone seal in there, Yesterday arrived a viton one, is this one so much better??? you have experience with it?

bloody trans shop is 500 miles away, that's a lot of pushing!!!
I guess I've to take the "hero's" way out, and do it myself??

I have the Racer X seal in mine and so far it's been flawless, but when I replaced the seal I also had their beefiest torque converter put in along with a big cooler. I don't know exactly how much better it is than the viton seals, from what I read it's supposed to handle heat better but I don't know if that's a fact or not. All I know for sure is that it doesn't puke when it sees a hill anymore

For what it's worth, the OEM seal that blew up on me was only 10-12 years old, my truck ate its first transmission in the late 90's. The seal blew up on me while I was off-road climbing up a mountain, going ~5-10mph in 4 high and using 1st gear for the steepest climbs and 2nd gear for the flatter areas. After I limped it home, I could still daily drive the truck and even do freeway trips without it leaking a drop, but every time it saw a grade it'd warm up and start puking ATF. Then it'd cool down and seal itself back up.

 

[Bart F-350]

I guess you were lucky, after mine puked, it didn't go nowhere! when I got it home I drained the trans completely, and also the TC, it seemed there was only 9 liters atf left in it from the 19 liters spec'd.
so I ordered the seal, and a new filter and fluid, and I'll go see what that brings, Only I now have to lower the trans to install the seal, Never did that before, so I'm a bit hesitant now, trying to find as much info as I can on how to do that right, it's a 4x4 diesel.