couple of questions from my new idi

[troupp]

So what I picked up is a clean rust free 92 cc single zf 4x4 long bed. It has some issues, and some i've been sorting out on my own. Need ideas on an oil leak and on popping noise through exhaust. The oil leak comes first, where the oil filter threads on, there is the cast end, followed by a pipe going forward, followed by another cast end, mine is leaking between the cast ends and the pipe, is there an o-ring or what in there? does someone sell a kit for these, or is it a non-serviceable item(replacement only)

On to the exhaust noise. It sounds like an old john deere tractor, through the straight pipe. only sounds like one cyl. also has slightly rough idle, causing the dmfw to rattle. It idles around 600? rpm. seems like a dead cyl. the truck itself only has 130,000 on it, and so far I don't have access to a comp. tester. I did however start it up, and had the old lady hold it at 1500 while I took one a infrared temp gun and checked the manifolds, they all seemed to come up to 125-150 pretty quickly. I took it to the local diesel shop and after a 2 min parking lot listen the guy who seemed very un-interested in it pretty much said he thought it was timing, which I have slowly one hash at a time advanced also no timing lamp available. I know what ping sounds like, and I haven't gotten to that point yet. The pump and injectors have been replaced before, within 5k I think. So far I really like the truck, I just need to fix the little issues, and then get more power out of it.

Any ideas you guys have are appreciated and if anyone in northern pa/southern ny has a comp tester or light, and wants to help out give me a yell. thanks

 

[pafixitman]

Sounds like the oil cooler is leaking. I've never experienced it, so wait for others to chime in.

The popping could be a bad injector or valve. Crack each fuel line at the injector and see if it gets worse or stays the same. When it stays the same you have isolated the problem cylinder. Swap with another cylinder and see if the problem moved with the injector or stayed.

 

[EvergreenRanch]

i agree with pafixitman, but to modify what he said, id run some good fuel system/ injector cleaner through the tank first, double dose, and see what that does.....and then start cracking I lines. as to the leak......i may be wrong but if your rear main seal was leaking, thats where id be expecting to see it coming out. id clean the hell out of everything fore and aft of the issue and see if it isnt leaking further towards the front of the engine. my .02

 

[troupp]

nothing is coming out from around the flywheel area.....or anywhere around the tin plate, but the oil runs back, and down the oil filter, and it's not the filter gasket itself, cleaned that area good with the first oil change. what would the cleaner prove with the newer injectors? also is the thermostat hard to change in these, I see it's under the alt. and mine circulates from cold start. Once again, thanks

 

[Mr_Roboto]

First thing you need to worry about is that exhaust noise. If it's a valve spring going it can lunch the whole engine.

Isolate the cylinder, then determine if it's an injector or not by swapping with a known good unit.

Also the alternator must come out to R&R the thermostat. Use International or Ford thermostats only, there is a special bypass hole that the aftermarket replacements do not have.

 

[stiesel]

oil leak sounds like the oil cooler. there are o-rings inside the two cast heads you described. the pipe as you descrbed it pulls out from the cast heads. you'll get differing opinions on the diffuculty of replacing the o-rings. i had good luck and had an easy time of it. only needed to remove the lower radiator hose. others report having to jack the motor up to remove the assembly.

 

[Diesel JD]

The oil cooler is a PITA job to do but not too expensive, but its messy and time consuming. You'll need to either jack the motor or pull teh drivers exhaust manifold. iw ould recommend pulling the manifold. You have to get the mating surfaces spotlessly clean, or like me you'll wind up havinga shop finish the job or diving into it again. You'll want to be sure to lube those orings with vaseline or dawn dish soap and be sure to install both rings on teh bundle(not in teh header) they are a Ford only part. Gaskets can be had at most good parts houses. I agree the popping out the exhaust needs quick attention. It could be a valve lifter, or a valve getting ready to drop or just a bad injector or bad timing.

 

[ClassicIDI]

I'm in the middle of r&r my oil cooler o-rings right now and the book says to install the smaller o-ring in the header and then the larger on the bundle. I can say that this didn't make sense to me but why do say to put both on the bundle? Also getting the oil cooler out was A pain. I had to remove the two driver side motor mount nuts loosen the pass. ones and jack the whole motor up about 2 inchs on the driver side to get it out.

 

[Michael Fowler]

Just a reminder....
Although we can use many engine parts from IH, the gaskets for the oil cooler header are not; they are specific to Ford, and are best purchased from them.

 

[EvergreenRanch]

what would the cleaner prove with the newer injectors?

eh....im of the opinnion that try the cheap and easy before anything else.....you get lucky, youve saved some dough, if nothing changes, you arent out that much $, and you can move on to further diagnose problems.... i hate getting anywhere near those damn plastic injector T's (to crack the lines...etc)....they break if you look at them wrong. On re-reading..... sorry thought it was a popping noise like stuck or dirty injector.... yeah valves something you need to take care of quick.

 

[geonc]

By 2 cans of "Seafoam" avail at most parts houses,NAPA etc.... and a new fuel filter.....fill new filter full of Seafoam and split the remaing between the tanks......

Followed by a strict regime of some kind of fuel additive...Diesel Kleen, Stanadyne, Power Service etc..... about 4 oz per tank before filling up should maintain the lubricity nesc for these inj pumps to live a long and healthy life

The feds have been removing sulphur {diesels main lubricating property} from diesel over the past 15 years or so and in '07 there will be "0" ppm.

Regarding the exh popping....try the old gasser valve test trick {seen mostly at auctions years back}......hold a dollar bill at the tip and see if it continues to flap away....if it sucks in

How is start up smoke and idle smoke?

Like stated before, there are several schools on the oil cooler.....personally I have never removed either exh mfld/mounts etc....

Now on the PSD ....another story


Just my couple pennies

 

[troupp]

The smoke at startup is horrible----blue and black--but I do need to do the return line kit, as some of my injectors are showing signs of seepage, got the kit already, just not enough time to install it. A local diesel shop had it for $25. It's the actual dipaco? brand kit. after it's warm, when it isn't misfiring so bad the the dmfw rattles, it's burning clean, but when it starts missing really bad it'll puff a blueish haze every time it pops, the popping noise is always constant, wether or not it's missing badly or just cruising it around. I've already put about 600 miles on it since I got it with no ill effects. thanks

Also does anyone know of a company that makes a shackle lift kit for the front of this to level it out. blocks are not an option. and I don't want to lose the ride it has. read the word cheap into all of this.