I admit the entire idea was just me throwing stuff off the wall and seeing if it sticks,so I am not opposed to a better idea.Are you referring to seperate pumps for each tank?That crossed my mind as well,but I thought with 3 E pumps,it would be just as complicated as the stock setup.I also looked into the bronco tank,but I want to use what I have if possible.I saw a guy on FTE that connected the two tanks,and that seemed like a neat idea.
Ok I see what you mean.I might do something like that on my truck since connecting the two tanks will definetly be a pain to do.
Yep, which is why I started pushing the single tank kits with the sump, the largest pump I could support with factory fuel system plumbing was a 150 and I had to use a 105p pushing into a gsl392 with a bypass reg to keep it from dropping pressure in the higher rpms. The factory line size as well as the fsv become a limitation but mounting a big dual filter setup before the pumps helped act as an accumulator for quick runs to bandaid the issue.
What type of transfer pump and plumbing are you going to use? I thought about doing this with a little cheap pump and using the 3/8 line that already exists. But we have this setup at work to pump down dump truck tanks and it literally takes forever to transfer the fuel. I bet it would take over 30 minutes to pump the rear tank into the front tank on these trucks using a regular supply pump and 3/8 line.
That's good info including on the transfer pump nose cone for the injection pump.Yep, which is why I started pushing the single tank kits with the sump, the largest pump I could support with factory fuel system plumbing was a 150 and I had to use a 105p pushing into a gsl392 with a bypass reg to keep it from dropping pressure in the higher rpms. The factory line size as well as the fsv become a limitation but mounting a big dual filter setup before the pumps helped act as an accumulator for quick runs to bandaid the issue.
-6 is going to be fine for most setups since the transfer pump assembly outlet port inside the nose cone of the injection pump has the same circumference as the inside of a standard -6 fitting, but for monster pumps in the 400+ cc range that won’t have a transfer pump inside the ip, and will instead be fed 100-150 psi inlet you can see a benefit by going up to -10 on your feed side to run twin walbros or whatever supports the volume and psi’s.
My previous mentioned caveman formula for pump volume is just a guide to help get guys in the ballpark, it’s probably more than you’ll need for volume especially when you’re dealing with a 110 or a 90 that could squeeze by with a factory mech pump with a deleted filter head bypass and clean fuel system, but always better to have more fuel supply than you need in my mind, especially coming from the gas race car world where you start dropping fuel pressure in your alcohol drag car you start melting stuff in a quick jiffy... I like to not have to worry about fuel pressure dropping
My transfer pump is a Carter 4070. I'm going to use the factory 3/8 feed out of the rear tank since the Carter comes with nipples for 3/8" fuel line. To get the fuel into my front tank, I'm going to use a fitting on the filler neck to pump the fuel into. I ran the return line this way on my Bronco and I never experienced any issues with fuel cavitation.
I can see that we're going to have to have a detailed discussion before I go to trying to run the 7.3 that I'm going to eventually build up for the Ex Wife. I do like the idea of switching to 1/2" fuel line and only having to run one fuel pump to feed the engine.Yep, which is why I started pushing the single tank kits with the sump, the largest pump I could support with factory fuel system plumbing was a 150 and I had to use a 105p pushing into a gsl392 with a bypass reg to keep it from dropping pressure in the higher rpms. The factory line size as well as the fsv become a limitation but mounting a big dual filter setup before the pumps helped act as an accumulator for quick runs to bandaid the issue.
-6 is going to be fine for most setups since the transfer pump assembly outlet port inside the nose cone of the injection pump has the same circumference as the inside of a standard -6 fitting, but for monster pumps in the 400+ cc range that won’t have a transfer pump inside the ip, and will instead be fed 100-150 psi inlet you can see a benefit by going up to -10 on your feed side to run twin walbros or whatever supports the volume and psi’s.
My previous mentioned caveman formula for pump volume is just a guide to help get guys in the ballpark, it’s probably more than you’ll need for volume especially when you’re dealing with a 110 or a 90 that could squeeze by with a factory mech pump with a deleted filter head bypass and clean fuel system, but always better to have more fuel supply than you need in my mind, especially coming from the gas race car world where you start dropping fuel pressure in your alcohol drag car you start melting stuff in a quick jiffy... I like to not have to worry about fuel pressure dropping
