So, I just made a run down to a local parts store and picked up some gauges. I got a 20 lb boost gauge and a three gauge set with a water temp, oil pressure and volt meter. Figured I would swap out the boost for the volt meter on the bracket. Now I just need to get a pyro. But ...
When I started up the truck to drive home, at first it ran and sounded good, but before I got out of the parking lot, there was a little jolt and all of a sudden the engine started running really rough. It got really loud sounding like the timing was way advanced. I looked in the mirror to see if it was smoking oddly and it looked good. Initially it just sounded loud and was running a bit rough, so I decided to limp the few miles to get back home to all of my tools. On the way home the engine would run just fine for a little while, and then run rough for a while. The temp gauge was running hotter than normal and it smelled a bit weird, kind of like coolant but also like when I had a fuel leak a while ago, so I stopped part way home but did not see any evidence of any leaks. I wanted to be certain I did not have an injector line leaking or something like that. So I started it back up again and went the last three miles back home. During these last three miles, if this were an old gas engine, I would say that I had problems with my distributor cap / rotor or other ignition problems. The engine was sputtering periodically, accelerated and smoked like I was pulling 10k. The smoke was black like it always has been, and I did have to put my foot into it like I was pulling 10k. I did not see any hint of blue or white smoke, but the smoke was gray for a second right after taking my foot out of it when slowing down - just like it always has. The other odd symptom was the transmission did NOT want to shift at it's usual points. I had to lift my foot before the transmission would shift up to the next gear. That one did not make any sense to me, there is no vacuum like on a gasser to control the shift points. I doubt that a transmission problem could cause the engine to run bad like this, especially when at idle with the transmission in Park.
In summary,
runs rough
sputters periodically and not consistently (I.E. not consistent like a rod knock)
lack of power
idles louder than usual
transmission not shifting right
Some of my thoughts of possible problems ...
Injection pump bit the dust
Injector(s) failed
leaking fuel line(s)
blown head gasket
failed lifter(s)
Cracked head & / or block (Please NO on this one!)
Cylinder wall leaking coolant (Please NO on this one!)
What really bums me out is I just the camshaft core that I plan on sending in to get reground. Now I have to figure out what is wrong with this thing before I can start putting a new cam into it, and I cannot go get a before dyno test with what every is wrong with it now.
The IP and Injectors have less than 4 years or 5k miles on them, both were installed by Gillette Diesel Service here in Utah. They are a factory authorized Standyne re-builder and the only shop I can find around here that will even touch the IDI engine. When they did the work, they said that the injectors were a matched set to all pop at the same pressure, and that the pump had been built to factory turbo specs. (O.K. I do not drive this truck much, it is just for hauling our travel trailer and other heavy hauling as needed)
If it turns out that this engine is toast, I think that I would end up doing a DT360 swap. I love this truck and the simplicity of the engine, I have had the truck for four years now and have nearly spent more time fixing it up than on the road. I thought I had everything fixed up now and was ready to start improving things with a cam etc. But what now ...
If anyone has any suggestions for what I should look at first, please let me know.
Thanks in advance - John Z
When I started up the truck to drive home, at first it ran and sounded good, but before I got out of the parking lot, there was a little jolt and all of a sudden the engine started running really rough. It got really loud sounding like the timing was way advanced. I looked in the mirror to see if it was smoking oddly and it looked good. Initially it just sounded loud and was running a bit rough, so I decided to limp the few miles to get back home to all of my tools. On the way home the engine would run just fine for a little while, and then run rough for a while. The temp gauge was running hotter than normal and it smelled a bit weird, kind of like coolant but also like when I had a fuel leak a while ago, so I stopped part way home but did not see any evidence of any leaks. I wanted to be certain I did not have an injector line leaking or something like that. So I started it back up again and went the last three miles back home. During these last three miles, if this were an old gas engine, I would say that I had problems with my distributor cap / rotor or other ignition problems. The engine was sputtering periodically, accelerated and smoked like I was pulling 10k. The smoke was black like it always has been, and I did have to put my foot into it like I was pulling 10k. I did not see any hint of blue or white smoke, but the smoke was gray for a second right after taking my foot out of it when slowing down - just like it always has. The other odd symptom was the transmission did NOT want to shift at it's usual points. I had to lift my foot before the transmission would shift up to the next gear. That one did not make any sense to me, there is no vacuum like on a gasser to control the shift points. I doubt that a transmission problem could cause the engine to run bad like this, especially when at idle with the transmission in Park.
In summary,
runs rough
sputters periodically and not consistently (I.E. not consistent like a rod knock)
lack of power
idles louder than usual
transmission not shifting right
Some of my thoughts of possible problems ...
Injection pump bit the dust
Injector(s) failed
leaking fuel line(s)
blown head gasket
failed lifter(s)
Cracked head & / or block (Please NO on this one!)
Cylinder wall leaking coolant (Please NO on this one!)
What really bums me out is I just the camshaft core that I plan on sending in to get reground. Now I have to figure out what is wrong with this thing before I can start putting a new cam into it, and I cannot go get a before dyno test with what every is wrong with it now.
The IP and Injectors have less than 4 years or 5k miles on them, both were installed by Gillette Diesel Service here in Utah. They are a factory authorized Standyne re-builder and the only shop I can find around here that will even touch the IDI engine. When they did the work, they said that the injectors were a matched set to all pop at the same pressure, and that the pump had been built to factory turbo specs. (O.K. I do not drive this truck much, it is just for hauling our travel trailer and other heavy hauling as needed)
If it turns out that this engine is toast, I think that I would end up doing a DT360 swap. I love this truck and the simplicity of the engine, I have had the truck for four years now and have nearly spent more time fixing it up than on the road. I thought I had everything fixed up now and was ready to start improving things with a cam etc. But what now ...
If anyone has any suggestions for what I should look at first, please let me know.
Thanks in advance - John Z