Having problems installing zf5

Big Bart

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I would use a clutch alignment tool (Guessing you already did when you installed it.) to confirm the clutch has not moved with all the pushing and pulling. If not lined up it’s going to be a bigger fight.
 

Farmer Rock

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I would use a clutch alignment tool (Guessing you already did when you installed it.) to confirm the clutch has not moved with all the pushing and pulling. If not lined up it’s going to be a bigger fight.
I did use the clutch alignment tool, and am pretty sure I got it right this time, but I'll just go over that again.


Rock
 

The_Josh_Bear

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I had the same issue a while back just to find out the alignment dowels from previous trans were still in the block. And one of the alignment dowels in the new transmission were still there as well. Was a simple mistake that costed me a day or so before my wife pointed it out to me.
I did that myself on a Toyota last winter. What a PITA and a waste of time! Of course it was all my fault... :frustrate
 

Markminyard

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If transfer case is not on the transmission that is fine. Just make sure transmission is in gear to turn the input shaft while turning the output shaft.
Another thing is do you know that you have the correct alignment tool? Does it fit snug into the pilot bushing/ bearing?did you check that the pilot bearing fits the end of the input shaft? Did you check that the throw out bearing fits over input bearing shaft where it rides? If all of this is correct I would almost bet that you need to go up slightly more in the back. It always seems like you are picking up too much but in reality it isn't enough. One more thing are you sure that you have the disk facing the correct way? Most of the time they are marked flywheel side on the disk and is overlooked more than you would think. I had problems like you are right now. I had the transmission in gear and shaking up and down and twisting the rear shaft and it just wouldn't go in. After many frustrating hours and checking everything over and over. I decided that the cheap plastic alignment tool was my problem. Went and picked up the professional steel alignment tool and the transmission fell right in. I noticed on the tip of of the plastic one it had a indentation from the pilot bearing when I had tightened the pressure plate. That is one more thing. Criss-cross when tightening so that it pulls down straight. I hope you get it soon. I have been right where you are, working on the ground fighting with a tranny. It's not fun but hang in there , it will be worth it
 

ih8minimumwage

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Use a couple of longer bolts in the mounting holes so you can visually check how even everything is (and not worry about anything slipping or falling). It took a bit of work with mine to maneuver everything to the correct angle and clear the shift tower of the taller transmission.

IIRC by the end I got it close enough that I cranked down progressively shorter mounting bolts to adjust the angle until it finally slipped in, then installed the factory bolts with some blue loctite.
 

G. Mann

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If you are working on gravel, do two things.
1. Buy 3 sheets of 4x8 plywood or particle board to make a smooth surface to work off of under the truck.
2. Call and find a local rental yard that rents a transmission jack, rent one. A good one.

The transmission jack will let you precisely adjust the height and angle of the transmission, and lift or lower it with little effort. It WILL be money well spent. Plus, you strap the transmission to the jack, so it doesn't fall off and hurt you, and the jack has wheels that will roll on the plywood "floor" you just put down. Which gives you a much better feel for sliding it into place.

With the plywood "floor" you can work off a creeper, while you use the transmission jack to hold and angle the transmission into "Just the right angle to line up the splines" and make it happen.

If you get the angle just right, it will slide right in... sounds like you've been fighting yourself without doing that.
Good luck, keep safe.

If you have a transfer case, take it off to install the transmission, then use the transmission jack to lift it in place, without straining. Life will get good with the right tools.
 

Farmer Rock

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If you are working on gravel, do two things.
1. Buy 3 sheets of 4x8 plywood or particle board to make a smooth surface to work off of under the truck.
2. Call and find a local rental yard that rents a transmission jack, rent one. A good one.

The transmission jack will let you precisely adjust the height and angle of the transmission, and lift or lower it with little effort. It WILL be money well spent. Plus, you strap the transmission to the jack, so it doesn't fall off and hurt you, and the jack has wheels that will roll on the plywood "floor" you just put down. Which gives you a much better feel for sliding it into place.

With the plywood "floor" you can work off a creeper, while you use the transmission jack to hold and angle the transmission into "Just the right angle to line up the splines" and make it happen.

If you get the angle just right, it will slide right in... sounds like you've been fighting yourself without doing that.
Good luck, keep safe.

If you have a transfer case, take it off to install the transmission, then use the transmission jack to lift it in place, without straining. Life will get good with the right tools.
That's the worst part.... I bought a transmission jack, and I have plywood down. I think it's mostly the angles fighting me.

Rock
 

Double-S-Diesel

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been a long time since ive done a transmission, ive done the swap the other way zf to t-19 a few times,
someone correct if wrong, but is there a spacer between the block and the zf that is not there on the t-19??
 

IDIBRONCO

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The only spacer used in auto vs standard is the crank spacer used with the E4OD flexplate.
 

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