True, it will clear. My co worker ran his there for 10 years
Got a turbo kit, some questions and install thread
- Thread starter sjwelds
- Start date
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Good to know. I will likely put some heat insulation between the turbo and that if I feel it needs it.
BioFarmer93
OPEC Hater
THAT is a good idea- practically all the other electrical is over there anyway, and I can shorten up that big positive cable by a considerable margin..
sjwelds
Full Access Member
made a Banks-style bracket out of some 3/16" aluminum plate and mounted it over the driver-side valve cover. Had to extend the rear-most gp wire by about 6".
Managed to get the uppipe and y pipe installed without taking them apart. My lil porta power wedge and cylinder came in right handy!
Gotta wait for intake seal and grommet to finish things up. Russ, I ordered that NAPA part number you gave me. Thanks for that and the seal.
Need to get some longer fuel hose for from the pass side return cap around the front of the intake manifold and back to the t-fitting. Can I use any fuel line for that or should I try to source some cloth-covered stuff?
Managed to get the uppipe and y pipe installed without taking them apart. My lil porta power wedge and cylinder came in right handy!
Gotta wait for intake seal and grommet to finish things up. Russ, I ordered that NAPA part number you gave me. Thanks for that and the seal.
Need to get some longer fuel hose for from the pass side return cap around the front of the intake manifold and back to the t-fitting. Can I use any fuel line for that or should I try to source some cloth-covered stuff?
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Still am not sure what I'm going to do for a CDR system. I'm trying to decide between the CDR versus a catch can with a hose from that to the intake. I'd like the CDR for the fact that it's closer to a factory system, but I also think it'd be kinda cool to TIG weld me up a catch can mounted right above the timing cover plate in front of the IP, then a hose to a fitting TIG'd into my custom intake setup that I have in mind.
I also thought of just buying a fair sized crankcase breather and building a mount for that. just come up off the timing cover with a stub of aluminum pipe and attach the breather to the end of it.
Thoughts?
I also thought of just buying a fair sized crankcase breather and building a mount for that. just come up off the timing cover with a stub of aluminum pipe and attach the breather to the end of it.
Thoughts?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I would do a RDT over a breather filter. But would do a separator (like you were talking about) over them all, even the factory system.
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Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
sjwelds
Full Access Member
How can I get the studs out of the exhaust manifold without breaking them off ??????
vandy7.3
Full Access Member
Shouldn't have to take the studs out. Just the nut off the stud. Penetrating oil and an impact
sjwelds
Full Access Member
According to ATS you do. Not sure if you can get the y pipe into the uppipe past the existing studs and then swing it into place....
Black dawg
Registered User
yes it clears just fine, but it is a pain if you ever have to work on it back there.
The studs have to come out if they are the factory hex style or the Y will hit the hex and not seal. Sherwin Ill throw in some hose, or if you want a whole return kit, well let me know, all fits in same box.lol
vandy7.3
Full Access Member
I put my Y pipe on without removing the studs...
That probably explains why I have a leak there.
No joke you learn something new everyday
That probably explains why I have a leak there.
No joke you learn something new everyday
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Huh. Wonder if I could mill off enough on th ypipe casting to make it fit. Russ, do you know how much I'd need to take off to get it to seal right?
In other news, I had a problem getting the pipe plug out where the oil feed elbow threads in. It was an Allen head plug for some reason and it rounded off inside when I tried to remove it. So I got my tig welder up in there and stacked a bit of weld directly on the head of the plug till I had enough built up to get a vise grip on it. Then it basically turned out by hand lol the heat from welding loosened it nicely. Guess I can do that if I break a stud on the exhaust manifold.
got the oil drain casting mounted. When to O'Reilly's and got a Dorman part number 42344 grommet. Seems fairly tight in there with the addition of some rtv silicon. Hope I can get the nuts started that bolt the turbo on so I don't have to take the casting back off.....
In other news, I had a problem getting the pipe plug out where the oil feed elbow threads in. It was an Allen head plug for some reason and it rounded off inside when I tried to remove it. So I got my tig welder up in there and stacked a bit of weld directly on the head of the plug till I had enough built up to get a vise grip on it. Then it basically turned out by hand lol the heat from welding loosened it nicely. Guess I can do that if I break a stud on the exhaust manifold.
got the oil drain casting mounted. When to O'Reilly's and got a Dorman part number 42344 grommet. Seems fairly tight in there with the addition of some rtv silicon. Hope I can get the nuts started that bolt the turbo on so I don't have to take the casting back off.....
do not mill the casting, the studs need to go in the Y anyway. If worried, heat the manifold ears a little first.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
By the way, I did have to take the wye pipe off of the up-pipe. OH, I got it all in in one piece, but there would have been absolutely NO way to get to the turbo mounting bolts. So I had to heat it to get it apart. Hopefully, it will be fairly leak free when I get it back together...I plan to slather it with antisieze as well.
