Fuel lubricity...

[OB_WAN]

Truck diesels are designed to be under load, using one as a passenger vehicle will wreck it. If you do use it as a DD, drive the snot out of it. Anything to get the EGTs up should clean out some of the coke deposits.

When I bought my IDI, it had a stuck ring and was eating a quart of oil every week. Drove it like I stole it, and the ring let go. PO let it idle longer than needed.

good suggestion. Mines been eating oil lately as a DD so perhaps I should beat on it a bit and see what happens.

 

[david85]

I usually exercise mine on the weekend if I have the time. Find the nastiest hill in my area and turn it loose to get the EGTs up. Most of my cruising is around 600-700EGT even if I'm towing, so the occasional bump past 800 seems to keep it happy.

 

[Silver Burner]

I'll be pulling my 6500lb trailer up over Mt. Hood this weekend, so that should clean out the motor good. Wish I knew what my EGT's were though. My truck has dual 2.5" straight pipes with an H-pipe that I know is just too small. I wonder if I run over 1000 degrees....

 

[HammerDown]

Truck diesels are designed to be under load, using one as a passenger vehicle will wreck it. If you do use it as a DD, drive the snot out of it. Anything to get the EGTs up should clean out some of the coke deposits.

When I bought my IDI, it had a stuck ring and was eating a quart of oil every week. Drove it like I stole it, and the ring let go. PO let it idle longer than needed.

Shucks, that's about how I've operated mine since new in 1988...with the annual Harley trailer tow to Daytona or towing my boat to the ramp. Other than that it's a grocery, movie/DVD getter

 

[jim_22]

I read the technical article in this forum on fuel additives. I have always used either Stanadyne, or Power Service. The old timers told me that I should, due to the dryer fuel (Ultra Low Sulphur), so I just took them at their word. I did the math, and found that the Stanadyne, though performing poorly, is only half a penny less per ouce (with shipping), than the Opti-Lube, so I ordered some. I saw that the Bio-Diesel was the best fuel lub, but that has it's own list of problems....SO...Question: If I add straight, ****** soybean oil at 50:1, which seems to be the lubricating agent in biodiesel, will it stay blended? I think in cold weather, I might have gelling issues, as it gets mighty cold here, but I wonder...Opti-Lube in winter, soybean oil in the summer (cheaper and readily available, and works good?)....could sure use some input on that one, because I sure don't know. I wonder if cutting the Opti-Lube to 1/4 ounce per gallon, and fortifying it with 1/4 ounce soybean oil would work?

Go for the soy. It will stay mixed.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I think it can also occur from running diesel without load, motor is too cold for complete burn. I think this is called wet stacking, idling long periods being a good example.

EVERY TRUCK should have a LOCKING hand-throttle-cable.

Even if only for a minute, I throttle mine up to about 1200-RPM.

"Cylinder wash" is another danger of low RPM idling.


Plus, kicking up the idle increases the oil-pressure.

 

[runaway!]

Shucks, that's about how I've operated mine since new in 1988...with the annual Harley trailer tow to Daytona or towing my boat to the ramp. Other than that it's a grocery, movie/DVD getter

I'm not sure if you are trying to prove what I said as wrong, or trying to say something else. Please expand on what you mean, I don't want to assume you are trolling my post.

 

[Silver Burner]

I think he's saying basically that he's on the original motor, and other than an annual derby, he runs it empty by and large. That's what I got out of it, anyway. Doesn't sound like he's being negative though..

 

[Hi Top Camper]

I have been running Texaco two cycle ash-less oil alone with Kreen since the mid nineties.

No problems. At least, not with fuel quality. Not bad for 15 or more years.

Have a problem in that the diesel would not start today.

Believe it is a fuel delivery problem, not a fuel quality problem. Have not done anything to check out starting problem. I came on this web site to start checking out the no start condition. Saw this post and get side tracked. So, on with my troubleshooting.

 

[BlueBreadTruck]

Front wheel bearings removal tool

Hello all,

I need to replace my front wheel bearings and ball joints.

I am used to doing them on my 89' bronco, and have a 4-tooth large wheel bearing socket.

Before I take this thing apart, can anyone tell me what wheel bearing socket I need? Thanks!

94' f-350 4x4

 

[HammerDown]

I'm not sure if you are trying to prove what I said as wrong, or trying to say something else. Please expand on what you mean, I don't want to assume you are trolling my post.

Nope, not trolling your post...just commenting on my experience with my 'bought new' diesel and how I've use it.

I too believe diesels are meant to be 'worked'... well, maybe.
However, there sure are a LOT of diesel cars and some trucks used just for daily drivers. So in a way, your comment was a little broad saying unless they're "under load" or worked hard would "wreck it".
198,000 wonderful miles on my >cream puff"

Note...it would appear that the 'newer' emission/computer loaded diesels are infact not designed to be operated with a light foot. Going into regen to clean out their DPF especially from ***** footing around town.

 

[david85]

Low EGTs mean the DPF behind engines like the 6.4 can't clean themselves out from light load exhaust temperatures so it goes into regen more often. The new 6.7 is said to run much higher EGTs across all operating ranges to keep the DPF hot enough to burn itself clean without the need for regen. Last I read, they were claiming EGR temperatures of 1400 degrees.

The reason they didn't do this with the 6.4 was supposedly due to urea injection not being ready for full production.

Higher EGTs increases Nox count in the exhaust and injecting urea into the exhaust stream somehow makes turn into cream puffs and flower power that the EPA can agree with.

Can't wait to see what urea injection gets replaced with

 

[franklin2]

I WAS TOLD OT RUN ATF IN MINE BY MY TORBO MEC. BEEN RUNNING IT FOR A YEAR NO PROBLEMS

Be careful. ATF usually has a red dye that can be picked up by the fuel police if you ever get checked for illegal fuel in your tank at a road check.

I try to buy fuel here as often as I can.
http://www.southernstates.com/articles/hf/dieselfuel.aspx

 

[runaway!]

Nope, not trolling your post...just commenting on my experience with my 'bought new' diesel and how I've use it.

I too believe diesels are meant to be 'worked'... well, maybe.
However, there sure are a LOT of diesel cars and some trucks used just for daily drivers. So in a way, your comment was a little broad saying unless they're "under load" or worked hard would "wreck it".
198,000 wonderful miles on my >cream puff"

Note...it would appear that the 'newer' emission/computer loaded diesels are infact not designed to be operated with a light foot. Going into regen to clean out their DPF especially from ***** footing around town.

I apologize, written language can be limited in conveying the real message.

Diesel passenger cars are designed to be "driven" versus worked, things such as timing and fuel delivery are taken into consideration for complete burning.

Not to say driving a pickup lightly would absolutely wreck it, but most would see issues eventually. Driving a gas car for trips less than 20 minutes is supposed to be hard due to corrosive condensation, I would be likely to believe this - yet there are lots of cars that put 100k on doing just this.

 

[snicklas]

Note...it would appear that the 'newer' emission/computer loaded diesels are infact not designed to be operated with a light foot. Going into regen to clean out their DPF especially from ***** footing around town.

Hammer...... I would agreee with you 100%. My 03 6.0 does not like to ba a "soccer mom / grocery getter" vehicle. I have 3 vehicles, a Dodge Neon that is currently being used away from home, a Sable Wagon, that is currently my DD and the 03 Excursion, that is the go get the kids from school and run to the store. I drove the Ex last night to get a little fuel and pick up a few things. I pulled out of the Fuel Station, and laid into the throttle (I was up to normal operating temps....) and it felt like I was driving a 4 banger..... It finally lit and took off, but is being driven easy had the EGR Valve a bit sooted up and the turbo laggy...... Now if I DD it to work, after the first day or two it is cleard out and back to normal. So yes, being easy on the new ones is harder on them that working them hard. I try not to idle mine much, and I plan on installing the High Idle Mod in mine...(The 6.0 with the TorqShift auto has a PTO function you can control with a switch and have it "idle" at 1250 RPM.......)