Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

Rdnck84_03

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#4 and #1 are both at TDC at the same time so the timing mark is the same for both.

On the vans I believe it is because it is easier to get to #4.

James
 

ISPKI

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I feel like its easier to get to the #4 injector on the trucks as well. #1 is a tight fit with everything going on around it.
 

Cant Write

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#4 and #1 are both at TDC at the same time so the timing mark is the same for both.
This comment confuses me. I would assume they would be 180 out (compression/exhaust) which would never work to time a gas motor.

But the balancer on a diesel must have multiple marks or positions to accommodate using #1 vs #4. Cause it uses the injection pulse right, so it has to be on compression stroke. And no 2 cylinders fire at the same time. Maybe #1/#4 are next to each other in the firing order. If so, wouldn’t that still mean the balancer’s have different marks and would not interchange between pickups and vans/international

Help me understand :idiot:
 

Rdnck84_03

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Yes it is 180 out, but the damper mark reaches the tab at the exact same time. Since the crank makes 2 full turns to 1 turn of the cam it works out the same. You can actually time a gas engine from whichever cylinder is 180 out from #1 also.


James
 

bumblebeer

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This comment confuses me. I would assume they would be 180 out (compression/exhaust) which would never work to time a gas motor.

But the balancer on a diesel must have multiple marks or positions to accommodate using #1 vs #4. Cause it uses the injection pulse right, so it has to be on compression stroke. And no 2 cylinders fire at the same time. Maybe #1/#4 are next to each other in the firing order. If so, wouldn’t that still mean the balancer’s have different marks and would not interchange between pickups and vans/international

Help me understand :idiot:

To add to what @Rdnck84_03 said: It works on either cause they are 180*. Even using cylinder #1 the timing mark passes the magnetic pickup twice for every combustion cycle. But since the meter is reading injector line pressure it only "sees" the timing mark during the compression stroke.

With mine I tried enlarging the hole on the timing plate above the harmonic balancer, but gave up cause it was too aggravating to get to. I ended up using a hand file and some fine grit sand paper to reduce the size of the pickup. That was a lot easier and seems to work just fine.

If you get the meter on it and know you'll need to rotate the pump a good bit, it may be easier to just remove the lines. It may take a bit longer, but for me at least it was a lot less hassle.
 

Black dawg

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If you cant rotate the pump any farther because of pressure from the lines, just loosen the ones you can get to. It will help enough to get it where you need it. I have only needed to do that a couple times, but usually even if the pump has to be rotated quite a bit I dont worry about the lines........
 

Cant Write

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Thanks everyone. Waiting on my tires before I start it. My driveway and parking area is not level, and while I did level the van up, I’m not taking chances of dropping it!!

Hopefully tires are done today
 

Cant Write

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Was too tight on time to “time-it” before we left for 2465 mile trip.

I-70 WB. Pulled Loveland Pass just fine. Coming down the “IKE Gauntlet” to quote TFL, I got a little bit of smoke at the bottom (retarded timing) it figured itself out quickly.

I hit the bottom of Vail Pass doing 75 mph. It climbed it admirably!! I would drop out of OD below 55 and here is why.......

Going up Vail Pass, I could accelerate up to 55 in direct, but no further. but could accelerate past 70 in OD to prepare for the next portion of the climb.

Trying to get past 55 in D, it would wanna lightly buck which I attribute to retarded timing and high rpm operation.

Coming down Vail Pass, again small amounts of smoke I was able to work out quickly.

I was very impressed with my high elevation power being NA. Look forward to getting it timed by the meter.

I read a post way back that stated if you have a turbo, 3.55’s would be ok, but stick with 4.10’s if you are N/A especially in the mtns or at elevation. That person is spot on in regards to my situation (no towing)

55 in D = 2526 rpm’s
55 in OD = 1793
65 in OD = 2119
71 in OD = 2315
75 in OD = 2445

Speculation here; but my van loved 71 mph vs 75 and I think it’s due to my timing still being retarded coupled with high rpm operation.
 

Cant Write

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@LowTech as to not muddy that other thread. When I was looking for my air intrusion issue, which was really a timing issue......I found that my supply from the lift pump to the fuel filter was 3/8ths, but the supply from FF to the IP was only 1/4. With time NOT on my side (usual) I cut the lines and removed the fuel filter. Not finding a good place to mount it in the engine closet of tiny-ness. I resorted to blasphemy.

I installed a: WIX 33270 (140 micron/wire mesh/ 3/8ths) before the mechanical lift pump.


Then I went from the steel line from the lift pump into a CarQuest Premium Fuel Filter 86243: (10 micron at 98% efficiency at EFI pressure) then to IP.


Now I am sure that is wrong and ghetto as H-E-double....But I figured it’s the right rating, and a much lower pressure so only helping it’s filter ability. Now the water in fuel dilemma. I reasoned some additives emulsify and some demulsify. I use opti-lube, and they state “not one engine manufacturer recommends an emulsifier”. So this is not a long term solution.

I routed my return lines like this:

You must be registered for see images attach


In 2465 miles. ZERO hard starts or running issues.

Having the filter on my trans crossmember added about 15’ of hose. Not sure if that creates any problems.

Closest store to me (hardware or auto parts) is 17 miles 1-way
 

LowTech

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Thanks for the details.
When I changed to the electric lift pump (mech one started leaking and everyone was saying that good new ones were rare) I cut into the steel line on the DS frame rail and tied in there. Then I did the block off of the mech pump mount and added a short connecting hose there. All w/ the intent to move the filter down just after the pump and run new line to the IP after pulling out the old steel one that crosses to the PS of the engine.
Guess I need to get back to that before I switch back to working on my deuce and no longer have this rigs needs in mind.
 

Cant Write

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I understand perfectly. It's 20 miles for me, but the elevation changes aren't nearly as drastic as they are for you.
And my only choice is Car Quest and Ace Hardware.

I’m learning to plan better. Meaning I write down what I need instead of trying to remember. LOL
 
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