Fuel lubricity...

Revelstoke

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I read the technical article in this forum on fuel additives. I have always used either Stanadyne, or Power Service. The old timers told me that I should, due to the dryer fuel (Ultra Low Sulphur), so I just took them at their word. I did the math, and found that the Stanadyne, though performing poorly, is only half a penny less per ouce (with shipping), than the Opti-Lube, so I ordered some. I saw that the Bio-Diesel was the best fuel lub, but that has it's own list of problems....SO...Question: If I add straight, ****** soybean oil at 50:1, which seems to be the lubricating agent in biodiesel, will it stay blended? I think in cold weather, I might have gelling issues, as it gets mighty cold here, but I wonder...Opti-Lube in winter, soybean oil in the summer (cheaper and readily available, and works good?)....could sure use some input on that one, because I sure don't know. I wonder if cutting the Opti-Lube to 1/4 ounce per gallon, and fortifying it with 1/4 ounce soybean oil would work?
 

HammerDown

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Lot of people, me included, just use 2 cycle motor oil. About 2 pints per tank full using more don't hurt.
Has anyone checked to see if their injectors or GP's have been coking up with the 2-stroke oil, as I'm feeling that was my sever cold start issue this past winter.
Heavy miss, rough idle, smoke etc until engine built some heat.
My GP's and system were tested ok. :dunno

After several tanks without it and w/ Power Service only >she's starting like new again. Too bad as the engine was much quieter with the two stroke.
 

Revelstoke

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That's my biggest fear: coking foul. I was told by my diesel service man that Marvel Mystery Oil was bad because it does not completly combust. I'm wondering if 2 cycle oil does the same thing. I'm definately not getting rid of my Power Service or Stanydine, as I fill my fuel filters with it when I change them. I'm told it gives everything a good scrubbing. I hope the Opti-Lube works, but I'm sure wanting to stretch it as far as possible.
 

Silver Burner

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Reading about the lubricity of 100% biodiesel mix, would it be bad to mix that with regular diesel in the proper amounts per tank?

Revelstoke, you say that using the biodiesel has its own list of problems. What kinds of problems could I expect running a small mix of bio in each tank?
 

Revelstoke

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Well, you will see some postings from some of the other members in here, that the biodiesel "scrubbed" their fuel systems and foulded their fuel filters. As I recall they said, "carry spare filters". Biodiesel also eats the rubber/seals on older rigs so I believe they suggested Viton return lines and injector rings. You will have to seach the other threads, and so you will find some more on bio diesel. I like bio-diesel, but I'm also a bit tenative of putting it in my 88 F-250 before I've done a whole lot of educating myself first.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Has anyone checked to see if their injectors or GP's have been coking up with the 2-stroke oil, as I'm feeling that was my sever cold start issue this past winter.

That's my biggest fear: coking foul.



From my own experiences with religiously adding TC-W3 two-stroke oil at an ounce/gallon ratio for the last several years in five different diesel trucks, I have seen ZERO negative issues, winter or summer, hot or very cold.

Many of the Dodge/Cummins crowd swear by the two-stroke as also having anti-gel properties and add no other anti-gel additive, and some of these guys live in some cold places; but, I am not yet totally convinced on that aspect; so, in winter, I mix White-bottle Power-Service at an ounce/3-gallons with the two-stroke ounce/gallon.

Doing so, I have seen no problems whatsoever.

The only possible reason I see where two-stroke oil might cause coking is due to the loss of combustion temperature in the indirect-ignition chamber, but I think others issues are the cause. :dunno
 

runaway!

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That's my biggest fear: coking foul.

Two cycle is preferred because it is ash-less, and IDIs will burn standard motor oil anyway.

Coking occurs from hot shutdowns, the fuel smolders in a hot chamber. I think it can also occur from running diesel without load, motor is too cold for complete burn. I think this is called wet stacking, idling long periods being a good example.
 

Revelstoke

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Well, that makes sense. I drive Pierces and Seagraves at work (Detroit 6), and my mechanic makes us run with the high idle if we sit at all.
 

Willie Two

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My son works in the Canadian oil industry, he works in one of the refineries in northern Alberta Canada. A year or so ago I was able to get some technical information regarding ULSD and what adding 2 cycle oil, in moderation, would do to bring back the lubrication we now are missing. The information I got supported the use of 2 cycle oil. I've been using it faithfully since then without any bad effects. Sorry I can't post the information for all to read.
 

david85

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I use stanadyne additive in mine. Under $10 per bottle and each one lasts about a dozen tankfulls when mixed according to the recommended concentration. Seems like a decent price.
 

FX4 Level2

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Two cycle is preferred because it is ash-less, and IDIs will burn standard motor oil anyway.

Coking occurs from hot shutdowns, the fuel smolders in a hot chamber. I think it can also occur from running diesel without load, motor is too cold for complete burn. I think this is called wet stacking, idling long periods being a good example.

i was under the assumption wet stacking was cause by long periods of idle with insufficient heat.. ie why the 6.0 idles up during cold idling..

so yea.. your right! :D
 

runaway!

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Truck diesels are designed to be under load, using one as a passenger vehicle will wreck it. If you do use it as a DD, drive the snot out of it. Anything to get the EGTs up should clean out some of the coke deposits.

When I bought my IDI, it had a stuck ring and was eating a quart of oil every week. Drove it like I stole it, and the ring let go. PO let it idle longer than needed.
 

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