Fan clutch upgrade...
- Thread starter ifrythings
- Start date
G. Mann
Full Access Member
OK, but how are you going to grip the insert to spin it out?
Thus my thought of an internal torks at the top of the insert. [see pic posted in the thread above by OP]
OOPS... just got your post. Hex will work, should have room for a nice big one so you have plenty of area for contact. The crown on the insert is perfect for doing that. Should be a slick setup.
Great idea... using the 6.4 fan clutch... now to figure out the electronics...
Thus my thought of an internal torks at the top of the insert. [see pic posted in the thread above by OP]
OOPS... just got your post. Hex will work, should have room for a nice big one so you have plenty of area for contact. The crown on the insert is perfect for doing that. Should be a slick setup.
Great idea... using the 6.4 fan clutch... now to figure out the electronics...
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ifrythings
Full Access Member
You just need one gear, any size to switch the direction of your lead screw
I’m leaning towards the loctite on the ID and leaving the end of the bushing open, no matter what is done, this thing will be stuck on something in short order from rust as it has no coating. Anything trying to grab the threads is just going to tear them up, now I could eventually make a couple jam nuts to try and remove it from the water pump but there’s not a lot of threads on the bushing (9 to be exact).
Set screws will mall the threads enough that you won’t be able to get it off, I’m not a fan of set screws on threads.
At this moment I think if someone had the right setup they maybe able to get the cost down to 70-50 bucks a bushing and not loose time on it.
The thickest you could make the crown would be maybe .050” thick, the one on my bushing is about .018” thick and I’m probably going to grind it off.
I’d hate to know, if I even have an EDM place near me, how much they would want to do that, probably a few hundred or more .
I’m thinking to make the bushing somewhat resuable is to get it stuck on the water pump and if you ever need to change the water pump you could press off the flange and swap it with the new water pump, that way it’s free/cheap to do and doesn’t require a new bushing or special nuts/ bolts to jam up and try to remove the bushing.
As much as I want this to work, I think rust will win in the end, probably best to make sure the bushing stays on the water pump and just swap flanges when needing to.
I would if I could but being up in Canada we have to take everything and multiply by 10 for cost, I’m sure just getting a 3/8” Allan EDM in would probably be 300 bucks or more
Here’s a few more pics of the bushing and clutch together just for show and tell time
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If it were me, I would probably loctite it to the water pump. You could always apply heat to it and possibly strap wrench it off or like you said, swap the flange. Hell if the bushings were readily available is another 100$ a deal breaker for as often as you change water pumps and fan clutches?? Especially if it works well. A couple well placed spanner nut notches could work the other way around if you want to take it out of the clutch side.
I’ll have to look and see how hard it would be to add a gear and reverse the rotation. Now you have peaked my curiosity.
I’ll have to look and see how hard it would be to add a gear and reverse the rotation. Now you have peaked my curiosity.
either way i am excited to see how this works out. i would love to have a unit to put on my truck for the summer.
ifrythings
Full Access Member
That’s what I’m going to do is loctite it to the water pump and if I ever need to change pumps I’ll just press off the flange, as for being readily available, I don’t have the means to make these but if someone else does I highly encourage them to make them, it’s really just two threads types and a center pilot and your done. If I had a milling machine I would try to make a few flats on each side for a spanner wrench as that may work if it doesn’t eat up too much of the threads.
At this point I’m going to say it will work and at minimum it will move as much air as the original clutch will, just go to a junkyard and grab the fan clutch from a 6.4L, get the plug with it also and find a machinist that would make you the bushing, swap your fan blade on, get a cheap on off controller and enjoy or just run a switch or real simple temperature switch in the cooling system. Doesn’t have to be fancy right away to give good or better results.
Few more show and tell pictures:
I ground the “back” off of the bushing in case I need to press the flange off in the future.
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Bushing spec are: M40x2.0 left hand threads outside and around .650”-.750” long, 1-1/4” 16 left hand threads inside and .480” long and the pilot is 1” ID and is a long as the remaining length of the bushing
I thought y'all were kidding!
I'll EDM 1 for you free,even do it in metric 10-12mm? TORX will cost ya though,takes some programming to make the electrode
. Set up and electrode mfg. is what takes time, EDM works by itself, push go button and go do something else, I have several hex and square shapes on hand always so not as bad as you would think. Removing broken dowel in end of expensive crank,
I'll EDM 1 for you free,even do it in metric 10-12mm? TORX will cost ya though,takes some programming to make the electrode. Set up and electrode mfg. is what takes time, EDM works by itself, push go button and go do something else, I have several hex and square shapes on hand always so not as bad as you would think. Removing broken dowel in end of expensive crank,
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i know a machinist i can see if he is willing to make a few.
would i have interest from others?
would you say the best way to make them is use the shaft from an old clutch and machine the part from that? i could get a few old clutches and make a batch of bushings.
i have a fan controller still in my truck. does it matter if they get a full 12v or does it have to be less?
would i have interest from others?
would you say the best way to make them is use the shaft from an old clutch and machine the part from that? i could get a few old clutches and make a batch of bushings.
i have a fan controller still in my truck. does it matter if they get a full 12v or does it have to be less?
ifrythings
Full Access Member
I thought y'all were kidding!
So how long does it take to say burn a 3/8” square hole into 1/8” steel material?
Using the shaft from an old clutch does save some time as you don’t need to machine out the inner threads and pilot end and all you need to do is machine the hex down and thread it, then part it off.
Using the idi fan clutch become impractical if your destroying good clutches or having to buy them to rob parts from, also not the cleanest thing to take apart and you need a press to get the shaft out. If you could find a pipe or piece of material with a 1” ID and 1.6” OD would be perfect to save on machining costs or just a solid piece of 1.6” ish steel round stock and drill the center out would work too.
Keep in mind also that machinists usually like to have a nut/bolt to test the thread they are making, so at minimum you will need the 6.4L fan clutch for thread checking and a water pump too if your making a bushing from scratch.
As for the controller, the clutch only took about 2 amps @14v so your controller doesn’t need to be high current and I haven’t tested it yet but I’m sure the voltage will be something like 4-10v for 0-100% valve movement, again this is how I believe it will be as I do not see the clutch reacting to any change at just a few volts and same thing at higher voltages, above a certain voltage the valve will be open all the way and running a higher voltage to it won’t make any change to speed.
12-14v will be fine to supply the clutch with, that’s how ford did it, fused ignition power directly to the clutch and they control the ground side to the desired duty cycle.
tjsea
Full Access Member
I'm definitely intrigued by this electric fan clutch stuff. Things were turning in my head and I came across this controller. Do you think it would fit the bill? If I'm honest I'm new to the whole PWM stuff. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-3655 or I found these which look to be a much higher quality www.autocoolguy.com
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crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
Why not just a 3/8" square hole through the end of the adapter? Unless there's enough meat for 1/2". That way, regardless of which part it gets stuck on, you'll always have an "easy" way to get it out/off with just a ratchet/breaker bar and maybe an extension.
ifrythings
Full Access Member
That Hayden 3655 control looks like it should work decent for controlling the clutch, I would buy the temp sender for it instead of using the push in radiator probe, if someone else does decide to swap over clutches and try that controller I’d like to know how it turns out.
There is enough room to make a 1/2” square but the end of the bushing would need some material left on it so it doesn’t strip out like tin foil, my bushing was super thin at that point.
Just to put a 3/8 rough sq. thru 1/8 probably 5- 10 min, good enough for a ratchet. Precision, a good finish, specified corner radius more $$$, find a mold making shop and give them some time to fit it in, shouldn't be over a 100$ you will need more then an 1/8 thickness though.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Next idear, what about some holes for a spanner wrench?
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