FAN UPGRADE COOLING/OVERHEATING

Torinojts

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Running down the road with a empty truck you should be 190-200*. If you are hitting 220 you are overheating running empty imo
Is the radiator new or used out of a factory truck
This is exactly what I thought, 220 is hot for running empty. the radiator is a factory 94. I had the tanks removed and rodded out by a radiator shop, so should be good.

I don't remember if you are hearing your fan clutch lock in but if it isn't it may be bad as well.
I had the factory fan clutch and tried two other new clutches. one I modified the spring and did not help.
In order I would go
Is rad new?
Stant cap 13 lb
Oe Thermostat
Fan clutch
Bumper removal
radiator is pretty much new after the rad shop got done with it.
the cap is a 15 LB cap but not a STANT
has an OE t-stat
 

Black dawg

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I didnt catch the part about it running hot unloaded.....
I would be checking the t stat, and I have seen water pumps that just didnt move coolant like they should.
Unloaded should basically run at t stat temp.
 

Black dawg

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I am a a ron ioder
Yes I sell fans that bolt up to the oe fan clutch
I haven't listed them for sale on ob yet because I'm out of stock currently, but when I have stock back in I will post all the info about them and ordering info here.
Very interested in this. Let me know when you have some.....
 

Cubey

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Running down the road with a empty truck you should be 190-200*.

My tall, heavy RV that's always loaded down with water, propane, food, etc runs about 180-190* at 55-60 when pulling the little cargo trailer, depending on the day's temperature, wind, hills, etc. It'll get up to 200 but I have to get up around 65, or there has to be a heavy head wind, or a big hill, etc.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Airflow at highway speed is not the problem on our trucks (the fan is basically along for the ride above 35 mph anyway). If it's overheating on the highway, then you can rule that out (unless your fan blades are pitched the wrong way so it's pushing back instead of pulling).

I get where you're coming from but this is certainly incorrect.
The airflow through the radiator at highway speeds is good but still not what the fan can pull due to the relatively static air at the grill(compared to the surrounding air flow) and helping that the resistance to air flow through the cooling stack and the fact that we don't have any sheathing around the cooling stack like real trucks to force the air through.
This is proven every day by millions of MD and HD trucks driving around with way more load and often a worse power to weight rating but better cooling systems: the fans still come on all the time at 60mph on even a minor hill and you can watch the temp gauge drop rapidly.

Another anecdotal bit of data is that I switched to E-fans a few years ago mostly for fun and cause my fan clutch was toast, never locked up ever for the 10 years I'd owned it.
Anyway the e fans keep it from overheating at idle...and that's about it. The mechanical fan that wouldn't ever lock up kept my rig cooler when towing at 60+ than my e-fans can and they are good OEM Ford fans on relays. They pull a lot of air for electrics, but still nothing compared to a locked mechanical that's draining 10hp of cooling majesty.

For the OP I agree on t-stat or water pump or somehow a clog somewhere. 220 is the widest open the T-stat should be so that makes sense for it to run at 220 if the cooling system is maxed out via bad water pump, foreign material clogged in the Tstat or something else we are missing.
Love the your rig BTW!
 
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DrCharles

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I agree that mechanical fans can eat a lot of hp. On the other hand, how many of them are measured in actual operation, rather than stationary on a dyno?

My "other car" is a '72 Dodge Dart that I stuffed with a built-up 451. There is so little room for a mechanical fan that I installed a dual electric fan from a Ford Contour. I can sit in the driveway all day on a hot afternoon, idling lumpily, and the temp never goes over 185 (180 t-stat). At highway speed, the fans are either already off from the PWM controller, or I can turn them off & on manually, and I see no effect on the temperature at all. While experimenting with different cooling systems, I could actually drive around with no fan at all, and never worry about the temp as long as I stayed over 30 mph, too.

Anyway, 220 is not too hot pulling a load up a hill, as long as it doesn't get any higher. But it should not be running that hot without a load just cruising down the highway...
 

Torinojts

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well it is still pretty cool around here. I think I will put another motor raft t-stat in. Can you get one that runs cooler than I believe 190-195* that is in there now? Do they offer a 180* stat. I am also going to get a fan clutch since you can no longer get OEM what is the next best, a Hayden heavy duty?? Then I will just have to wait and see when temps are warmer.
 

gnathv

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Here’s some good information.
 

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03wr250f

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For those wanting an upgraded fan here is all the info on it

 

Torinojts

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Thanks. I did buy a motorcraft fan drive hub. Will have to wait till hotter temps. I may still order a fan from you…..
 

Socal88

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Have you looked into an ambulance package fan clutch, comes on earlier and runs longer.
 
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