FAN UPGRADE COOLING/OVERHEATING

[DrCharles]

How big a bumper? Got a picture?

Even a new Motorcraft t-stat could be bad out of the box. Check it on the stove. There's a saying in medicine, "When you hear hoof beats, think of horses, not zebras". Sounds like you've eliminated the horses... time to start looking for zebras!

 

[jrollf]

Ironically I just posted about this in Project Big Red...

I did some digging a while back and found out the "severe duty" version of the clutch is supposed to kick in sooner. I bought the one below, and I have to say it definetaly kicks in sooner/more often than the "standard" one it replaced. I can defininately here the fan. Here is what Hayden says about fan clutches, Standard, vs Heavy, vs Severe Duty:

https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/93/haydenSD-HD-SVRD.pdf

Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 2830 Premium Fan Clutch : Automotive

Buy Hayden Automotive 2830 Premium Fan Clutch: Clutches - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Isaac Ristow]

A A Ron Loder is selling upgraded fans that are bolt in on the Facebook group I bought one already waiting for it to come in. I would imagine he is here on OB too. Its a polly 9 blade fan with 160% more blade surface area than stock fan and he is selling them for 180 shipped. They bolt right up to factory fan clutch. My truck is a Rajay turbo 7.3 studded maxed pump I had a brand new 4 core short wide brass radiator towing it was hard to keep it under 220 and I seen 235 at times without even having ac... I swapped to a tall narrow core support put a new 4 core champion in and fitted a ac condenser so I could have my ac back and now towing 10,000lb camper ac blowing 28-32 degree air and driving like I stole it I can not get it over 200 degrees on a 90 degree day. Of course I'm also running a new Motorcraft fan clutch and thermostat and final charge coolant but I did also have the same new motorcraft tstat and fan clutch when I was having temp issues with the brass radiator

 

[Torinojts]

I have tried 2 different fan hubs but not a Hayden. For $85 I will have to try one. I will also search face book and see if I can find A A Ron Loder's post and purchase a fan from him as well.

Isaac Ristow, do you happen to recall the radiator part number you have in your rig now? thanks

 

[Torinojts]

Here are the pics that I got, the front end opening is not as big as the late 80s to early 90 Fords, then add the bumper, this might be part of the problem. A lot of the radiator (about half) sit below the frame rails.

 

[Big Bart]

Did you put a IDI radiator in your 75‘? If not perhaps you need a higher capacity radiator.

Have you checked your timing? When the timing is off, these trucks can run hot when it’s warm outside. (I don’t recall if when advanced or retarded.) Then get real hot when towing.

Is it an automatic tranny? If you have a C6 auto, a tranny cooler can really help.

 

[Torinojts]

It is a factory idi radiator, auto E4OD with a big trans cooler before radiator.
i never thought it could be timing. I think it might be a little advanced right now as it seams it has a little more clatter than most idi’S I have heard. I did set it at 9.5* I believe. I could retard it a 1/2 degree and try. I can get my EGTS to climb pretty fast when on the hammer

 

[Big Bart]

I have not seen or heard folks suggest at 9.5* they hear more clatter. I would retard more like 2 degrees, even if you where now at 9.5*. (I think you are more like 11-12* to hear clatter with the engine hot.) It should run cooler at 7.5* but still run good. Mark where you are so you can go back in case things do not improve.

Also make sure your cold advance is not on when the engine is warmed up. A test light or volt meter can tell if the cold advance solenoid is still getting power. It should not. If it is also why you are getting extra clatter.

 

[Black dawg]

I have never seen timing have any measurable effect on coolant temps.

 

[Black dawg]

A A Ron Loder is selling upgraded fans that are bolt in on the Facebook group I bought one already waiting for it to come in. I would imagine he is here on OB too. Its a polly 9 blade fan with 160% more blade surface area than stock fan and he is selling them for 180 shipped. They bolt right up to factory fan clutch. My truck is a Rajay turbo 7.3 studded maxed pump I had a brand new 4 core short wide brass radiator towing it was hard to keep it under 220 and I seen 235 at times without even having ac... I swapped to a tall narrow core support put a new 4 core champion in and fitted a ac condenser so I could have my ac back and now towing 10,000lb camper ac blowing 28-32 degree air and driving like I stole it I can not get it over 200 degrees on a 90 degree day. Of course I'm also running a new Motorcraft fan clutch and thermostat and final charge coolant but I did also have the same new motorcraft tstat and fan clutch when I was having temp issues with the brass radiator

Do you have a link to this fan blade???

 

[MtnHaul]

How hot have you seen the temp gauge registering? How long does it take to reach that temp? Assuming there are no clogs in the block and with all new cooling system parts it's difficult to see where it would overheat easily on the highway. Could the thermostat have been installed upside down? Malfunction?

 

[Torinojts]

normal driving it does not get hot but runs much warmer than I would like hoovers around 220-225. When pulling my boat, or anything for that matter, I can pull things just fine and it can take maybe 10 miles before it reaches its operating temp of around 220. every little hill, I mean a small hill, the temp will start climbing up to 235 then I have to let out of the pedal and slow way up. I can get it to 235 without towing as well.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I have never seen timing have any measurable effect on coolant temps.

I have but it was on a gas engine so it might not count.

 

[Big Bart]

I have never seen timing have any measurable effect on coolant temps.

I have personally experienced this. Changed out injectors, starting running much hotter when towing. Figured the only thing that might have changed was the timing. Check the timing and it was off. Set to the factory 8.5* and problem sovled.

Now guessing the PO did not have the timing set right to start with. So likely the new injectors changed the timing that was already wrong, to something that caused overheating. The truck ran cool when not towing oddly.

I think most feel these trucks are not very sensitive to timing like modern diesels. But timing is everything on these trucks. Running hot, hard starting, smoking, and lack of power to name a few. All are timing related. Many members like myself put off buying a timing meter, but once we get one we think what was I waiting for????

 

[03wr250f]

Is it a new radiator? Because it sounds like it may be clogged
Running down the road with a empty truck you should be 190-200*. If you are hitting 220 you are overheating running empty imo
Is the radiator new or used out of a factory truck? I would toss another motorcraft thermostat in just to check
I'm also curious if you have a head gasket starting to go causing high temps. Ie: combustion getting into cooling system causing it to overheat.
Not a fun solution but could take the bumper off and see if that helps.
Go to napa and buy a napa brand rad cap should say stant or have a s on the cap itself. Stant makes the best rad caps
I don't remember if you are hearing your fan clutch lock in but if it isn't it may be bad as well. Fans do actually provide some cooling running down the highway and are needed.


In order I would go
Is rad new?
Stant cap 13 lb
Oe Thermostat
Fan clutch
Bumper removal


I would go through quite a bit more before I ripped heads off.

Head gasket


I also know it's not doing it in winter so it makes it harder