It might come on late in town though? Not sure of the best place, I have my sensor in the heater core line.
Fan clutch upgrade...
- Thread starter ifrythings
- Start date
It might come on late in town though? Not sure of the best place, I have my sensor in the heater core line.
I think different people like their probe in different places 
Personally I would have it on the cylinder head because that’s what sees the most heat, and if my cylinder head is getting too hot I want it to kick on. The thermostat will regulate the temperatures beyond that.
Personally I would have it on the cylinder head because that’s what sees the most heat, and if my cylinder head is getting too hot I want it to kick on. The thermostat will regulate the temperatures beyond that.
I think different people like their probe in different places
Personally I would have it on the cylinder head because that’s what sees the most heat, and if my cylinder head is getting too hot I want it to kick on. The thermostat will regulate the temperatures beyond that.
This is how some of the newer vehicles monitor temperature. Ok my P71 Crown Victoria, it has the gauge sensor and I think that is part of what controls the fan. There is another sensor in the head that doesn’t touch the coolant only the metal of the head, and if it gets triggered, it throws the over temperature light, and throws the engine into overheat shut down and only runs on 4 cylinders at minimal power to get off the road and keep from producing much heat.
tjsea
Full Access Member
I just don't see much point to the fan being on if the radiator and air flow across it are sufficient to do the job without the need of the fan. I mean it's not like you are going to put a 195 degree temp switch in the bottom of the radiator, it would obviously overheat. Something lower like 170 or 175 maybe, you'd have to play with the temp sensor to get one that kept the engine cool on heavy towing, but also didn't run the fan when it wasn't needed. To me if the sensor was in the top of the radiator it would turn the fan on as soon as the thermostat opened and it would stay on. That kind of defeats the point of a fan clutch. At that point you might as well just do away with it and run a regular mechanical fan without a clutch. Also if your coolant is low and the the probe is in the top chances are it won't turn on the fan. Have you ever seen an engine get air locked? Why does it take so long for the thermostat to open? It's because the air against the thermostat doesn't conduct heat as well as hot coolant would. Just my thoughts, take it or leave it.
You don't set the system to turn the fan on until the coolant gets to around 210-220 or so. The thermostat should open and you have waterflow at around 190-195. Diesels run better when they are at temp, so you don't want the fan to come on too early. And you don't want the fan to be fighting the thermostat, especially in cold temps in the winter.
And hopefully this electric clutch has enough drag to pull enough air when it's off for the A/C system to work properly if you have it. If not, you will need to run a wire from the A/C clutch over to the fan control system and let it engage the fan enough to make the A/C cool without popping off the high pressure safety valve(been there, done that).
Regarding the bushing, I had some ideas about doing this same thing and found a left hand tap new on eBay for $30 and bought it. I also have a late but I have no idea how to tread so I was going to use a Cummins 4 bolt flange and clutch and retap the Cummins 4 bolt to our tpi (see below).
I scrapped my idea and instead went with a new stock severe duty fan clutch but changed the fan blades to 23" nylon 8 blade fan. Stock fan is 22", my shroud hole is 24". The nylon weighs half as much as the steel blades. It sucks a beach towel to the grill through the AC condenser and intercooler.
I live in Phoenix and last summer it hit 120 so time will tell if this set up works.
I scrapped my idea and instead went with a new stock severe duty fan clutch but changed the fan blades to 23" nylon 8 blade fan. Stock fan is 22", my shroud hole is 24". The nylon weighs half as much as the steel blades. It sucks a beach towel to the grill through the AC condenser and intercooler.
I live in Phoenix and last summer it hit 120 so time will tell if this set up works.
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I looked up the p/n on Borg warner then searched for a used one on eBay. Lol. Select "fan" then filter by "dimensions". The pilot is 5.000 (5.001") and the bolt circle is 6.000". I choose a diameter of 22.83". Two p/ns come up, one 8 blade the other 9. I wanted the 9" and there were new ones on eBay but they were $200, but p/n 4735-38164-95 was there and it was used for $75 shipped.
Since these are nylon it wouldn't be that big of a deal to find one on eBay used with the right pilot and bolt circle but too large diameter and carefully trim the blades. I'd still get one of those harbor freight tire balancers and balance it after. They won't blow up like metal fans and the blades are so light that even with the rotational mass it's really hard to have a big imbalance. I've trimmed nylon blades before. Trace the blade tip and Mark the blade wjth the template, then rough trim with a angle grinder (don't use a saw), then finish sand the shape sneaking up on the line, and finally balance. Just sand the tip, keeping the blade tip shape, a little to reduce weight. Went 100k on one without so much a leak from the water pump.
http://borgwarner-production.technicon.com/cc_borgwarner/navigate.html
Since these are nylon it wouldn't be that big of a deal to find one on eBay used with the right pilot and bolt circle but too large diameter and carefully trim the blades. I'd still get one of those harbor freight tire balancers and balance it after. They won't blow up like metal fans and the blades are so light that even with the rotational mass it's really hard to have a big imbalance. I've trimmed nylon blades before. Trace the blade tip and Mark the blade wjth the template, then rough trim with a angle grinder (don't use a saw), then finish sand the shape sneaking up on the line, and finally balance. Just sand the tip, keeping the blade tip shape, a little to reduce weight. Went 100k on one without so much a leak from the water pump.
http://borgwarner-production.technicon.com/cc_borgwarner/navigate.html
Tristan
Full Access Member
HAHAH just wish I had the talent to make wires look pretty. Looking good is half the battle after all.
cheap bronco
Full Access Member
I'm eyeing that cdr adapter block on the front of your timing cover. Can you tell us where we might get us one. Or give a part number. Sorry didn't want to change the subject from this post, but since the pic was posted had to ask
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I think that's was the banks one?
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Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Tristan
Full Access Member
Yes it is the CDR adapter that comes with the Banks Turbo kit.
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