Fan clutch upgrade...

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by ifrythings, Mar 26, 2018.

  1. gerlbaum

    gerlbaum Full Access Member

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    Thank! Very much appreciated. Yeah its just the banks one. I can't find the p/n at the moment but they were still sold new. Like $49 or something like that. The p/n is definitely listed on oil burners somewhere. I have it going to a racor cv4500 then back into the air intake. The drain on the cv4500 goes into a fitting on my fuel pump block off plate.
     
  2. tjsea

    tjsea Full Access Member

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    Any update? I'm just curious how this project is coming along.
     
  3. ifrythings

    ifrythings Full Access Member

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    No updates yet, I haven’t forgot about it just been busy with life and work and motivation to work on the truck, hoping to have some update in the next week or so.

    I did go to the auto wreckers and get a pigtail for the clutch and an AC pressure transducer.
     
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  4. ifrythings

    ifrythings Full Access Member

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    The fan is in and good timing too as the oem clutch I had on there has been puking it’s oil out for a while now.

    Stock water pump threads.
    5C0A4F19-381C-4B4E-BD60-8A3AA69A08A2.jpeg

    Bushing to adapte to the 6.4 clutch

    B5C5C6BD-336B-46B9-AD76-C9E9B953D900.jpeg

    6.4L clutch with idi fan threaded on

    4020173A-8412-490A-9606-BFB44088264F.jpeg

    3/4” clearance to radiator, more then enough for engine movement

    5FD22152-0D7C-4F33-A399-24722DEFE822.jpeg

    Just another pic.

    3396B97C-BEC9-4F6A-BEEC-6305F3D4008B.jpeg
     
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  5. ifrythings

    ifrythings Full Access Member

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    I used one of the metal bars that goes across the radiator to hold the wiring and left a bit of slack for engine movement.

    Clip end to hold the electrical plug

    C1BF4C66-3D7E-4031-A45C-906534FEFB54.jpeg

    Wire hold down ties, little over kill

    99105178-CFD6-4EB3-86FF-ADB4962E6B3E.jpeg

    Finished radiator support bar

    CBED0B80-DE3F-4899-BA85-7615A451EE53.jpeg

    Wire ties bent over to hold the wiring

    56BF5B0E-B3F3-4E15-9B20-AEA3B51961C6.jpeg

    And the electrical plug coming out the side of the fan shroud, for some reason I don’t have a pic of the actual fan shroud so I’ll get one tonight and post it so you guys have an idea where it comes out.

    C4D64326-E464-427D-9B7A-6B545FC5FAA2.jpeg

    I haven’t finished hooking it up to my temporary manual on/off switch to try it out yet, hoping to have that hooked up in the next few days.

    The fan took a good 5 minutes or so to unlock after first start up which I’m guessing that’s because it’s been in every position for the last 2 months and not actually run, after a quick run around the block it was down to the lowest fan speed like it should be.

    I’ll update more when I have the temporary wiring done and have full manual control of the fan.
     
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  6. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    My 6.0 fan acts the same. Stays locked upon startup when it's hot out. (Of course ac on max at the time also)

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
     
  7. laserjock

    laserjock Almost there... Supporting Member

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    This is awesome looking.


    Couple questions.

    1. Which route did you go to bolt the fan on?

    2. Does the 6.4 clutch require a pilot nub on the front of the bushing for location or does it just tighten down against the WP flange? It looks like it’s the latter.
     
  8. ifrythings

    ifrythings Full Access Member

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    I believe the nature of viscous fan clutches is to be engaged for the first minute or so, this one just took a bit to turn off and being used I wasn’t sure if it was a bad clutch or not but after the quick drive everything seems right with it.

    1: my calibrated hand torque wrench wasn’t working well when I put the original M6 bolts in to mount the idi fan and ended up stripping 2 of the holes out so I just drilled them out for a 5/16” thread and used the idi bolts.

    2: The 6.4L clutch doesn’t use a pilot and just tightens against the water pump flange, the bushing has a pilot to the pump but I don’t know if you would really need it or not. I torqued the whole assembly to 100ft-lbs and it felt solid, no feeling of threads stretching or the bushing trying to come apart.
     
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  9. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    Oddly it doesn't seem to do it as much in the mornings.
    Would these be called a electric viscous clutch? Or?

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
     
  10. ifrythings

    ifrythings Full Access Member

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    Yes these clutches are called electro viscous fan clutches
     
  11. ifrythings

    ifrythings Full Access Member

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    Well it’s looking like I have a bad clutch... it has unlocked only 2 out of the 6 runs I’ve done with it, doesn’t seem to care if I give it power or not it just stays locked. I may have a line on another used one to try out and see if it performs any different.

    One interesting note is the fan clutch itself is running very cool when it’s locked up, after getting it up to temp and running a good size hill you can hold your hand on the clutch it’s that cool, now I just wished the thing worked.
     
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  12. robert snodgrass

    robert snodgrass Registered User

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    So are we on our own fore getting the bushing or is somewone making them
     
  13. no mufflers

    no mufflers Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    i have a machinist i want to have make a few, and if it works out ill let y'all know.

    any update on how it works?
     
  14. ifrythings

    ifrythings Full Access Member

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    I haven’t driven the truck a ton since putting the fan on but every time I switched it on it would lock up and ran cool, unlocking is a different story and I think I have a bad clutch. I have most of the fan controller programing done and it seems to act right on the bench, haven’t hooked it up to the truck as I’m currently pulling the engine to swap cranks out for a vibration issue I have discussed in a different thread.

    Some update about the bushing, pulled the fan off last night and the bushing stayed on the water pump, I didn’t do anything special when I put it on and is spun off the water pump without issue so I don’t think anything has to be done machining wise for a removal tool.

    As for the fan controller, it’s turned into a bit more then just a controller, at this moment it will read out ECT, EOT, TOT, IAT, MAT, Fan speed, AC High Pressure, AC high pressure cut off control, High idle and cold timing advance control with separate manual high idle control and manual fan control (mite add in the engine temp light too). Everything is displayed on a 20 character by 4 row lcd screen and will tell you if a senser is out of range (shorted to ground or B+). I don’t have much to show picture wise as it’s on a demo board for testing but I will try and grab a shot of the screen tonight or tomorrow.

    I know a few will ask why I’m adding the high idle, cold timing advance and possibly the engine over temp light, well both of those sensors have pretty much crapped out and stay stuck on, I’m already reading engine temp accurately so it’s just a matter of turning on and off a few relays.
     
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  15. ifrythings

    ifrythings Full Access Member

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    Not much to update right now, I am still working on this project, currently dealing with redoing my engine and I’m fighting trying to get my display to work over a serial bus so it only uses 4 wires total instead of 10+.

    So at the moment the controller/ gauge read out can display :
    Engine coolant temperature -59 to +271F
    Engine oil temperature -59 to +271F
    Intake air temperature -59 to +271F
    Manifold air temperature-59 to +271F
    Transmission temperature -71 to +294F (piggy backing off of the tot sensor)
    (Note: the temperature ranges are what Ford uses)
    Exhaust back pressure (haven’t tested yet) but I believe is -30in hg to +60 psi
    Air conditioning high side pressure 0-500psi
    Fan speed (not done yet, need a working engine first to test)
    Manifold absolute pressure (boost) 0-15 psi
    Glowplug diagnostics (using a 7.3/6.0/6.4 gpcm)

    Outputs:
    High idle with manual override
    Cold timing advance
    AC clutch high side cut out
    Fan speed control with manual override
    Over temperature light
    Glowplug control with manual override and on/off
    Glowplug light

    I’m using all oem sensors (except boost) for this project, total cost atm is $0 for sensors and gpcm, all can be found at the wreckers for cheap or free which is why I’m using them.

    So atm my engine is back together, got to put it into the truck and hope it runs or it’s going to find out what a pound of thermite will do to it.... then wire up the controller and do some real world testing.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2018
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