looks like you can keep the fan. rock auto has them for around $200
Fan clutch upgrade...
- Thread starter ifrythings
- Start date
ifrythings
Full Access Member
The idea for using the 6.4l fan clutch wasn’t to make it cheaper or easier, it was to have more control over cooling without having to give up your first born, the biggest problem with the Horton clutch is the price and finding one. At least with the 6.4l clutch, if it fails on the big road trip you can get one at any auto parts store or even the junkyard and be back on the road in short order.
As for reliability, I would say they are around the same, both have coils and electronics (control) that can fail, both have bearings that can fail, the viscous can loose oil, the Horton clutch can wear out or the air gap can get too large to engage, both can be forced electrically to turn on full if the controller fails so they both have a failsafe. So to me personally at this point it comes down to price and availability.
P.s don’t get me wrong, the Horton is a very nice clutch and I’m not dissing it, just it’s not a practical option at this time.
Onto the update, as I did have a spare idi clutch to butcher I decided to pull the shaft out and use that for machining, this is not a very easy thing to take apart as they crimp the two parts of the clutch together requiring the entire outside edge to be ground off. Note: the top piece is the water pump side with the orange o-ring on it and the bottom part is what the fan is bolted too.
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Here’s the shaft part, the smallest part of the hex nut is 48mm and the largest is 55mm, this will require a bit of machining to get down to 40mm but shouldn’t be too bad, I have found a machinist that will turn this down and thread it for me so hopefully I’ll have it made this week.
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ifrythings
Full Access Member
Small updated, managed to look at a 6.4L water pump and the flange won’t work for swapping over, the 6.4 uses a way bigger shaft and the pulley bolt hole pattern is smaller, not a option to use.
I’m hoping to have the bushing machined out tomorrow then figure out how to mount the stator wiring/plug.
I’m hoping to have the bushing machined out tomorrow then figure out how to mount the stator wiring/plug.
chrlsful
Full Access Member
Blades hit the hose?
- grind off the extra length on the plastic fan blades.
Try'n do it equally so it stays in good balance.
- grind off the extra length on the plastic fan blades.
Try'n do it equally so it stays in good balance.
jwalterus
Made in America
ifrythings
Full Access Member
Got the bushing, came out thicker then I was expecting but should work, anyone think loctite would be needed? Keep in mind the fan clutch nut will still tighten against the water pump.
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nice. maybe blue loctite but i dont use it on mine. i just give the wrench a few wacks with a hammer.
ifrythings
Full Access Member
I ripped the threads off a water pump with just the wrench kit and pushing down, that was an expensive learning experience, I now carefully torque the fan nut to the ~100 ft-lbs that’s required.
Only thing I may change and make a version 2 bushing is I don’t have a pilot end for the fan clutch end, I’m not sure if it makes that much of a difference or not as these threads are pretty tight so it should be centered and if not it’s only going to be out a few thou at most.
I am not sure about the loctite thing, I would be worried about getting it out of the 6.4 fan clutch if that ever needed to be changed. But even without loctite that still may be a problem. Maybe you could loctite the ID so it would rather come loose on the OD, and then you could possibly take a rag and big channel locks to get the loctite loose? I don't like this scenario either, and if I were in the middle of this, sure as the world I would have to take it back off for some reason and it would tear it up.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Set screw?
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G. Mann
Full Access Member
Watching..... with interest
This is my concern as well, I think it would need to be cheap enough to just be a replacement item that goes with the clutch or have accommodations for safety wire or a set screw like mentioned.
G. Mann
Full Access Member
How about using two allen head set screws on opposing flats to lock the adapter into place, and EDM a T50 torks into the inside crown of the adapter, so it could be walked out and reused in 200,000 miles when you replace the fan clutch?
Long as the set screws are in place the clutch comes off the water pump as one assembly... for when you replace the water pump, for example... If you ever need to replace the fan clutch... the adapter could be saved..
Lock tite set screws? Perhaps not.. if you choose the length just right they would set flush with the wrench flats... slight counter bore into the adapter threads to give a place to seat the set screws without upsetting the thread [perhaps]
Work?
Long as the set screws are in place the clutch comes off the water pump as one assembly... for when you replace the water pump, for example... If you ever need to replace the fan clutch... the adapter could be saved..
Lock tite set screws? Perhaps not.. if you choose the length just right they would set flush with the wrench flats... slight counter bore into the adapter threads to give a place to seat the set screws without upsetting the thread [perhaps]
Work?
i think the set screw is a good idea. with no loctite the two threaded parts should come apart easy.
