Facet blues

The_Josh_Bear

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I could take pictures but there isn't much to see since it's all tucked down by the radiator and stock lift pump.

But it's essentially as @IDIBRONCO outlined for parallel pumps.
Feed line from tanks into a "Y", and one side of the Y feeds the lift pump, the other side feeds the Facet. Then they both reduce with another Y back to a single line to the IP.
It's important to add a check valve after the lift pump but before the Y so that the Facet cannot push fuel into the lift pump if it's diaphragm fails. Doesn't happen much but an $8 check valve is better than a ruined engine. The Facet has 2 built in check valves so you don't need one on that side.

Then I used a relay to run the Facet and the trigger for the relay is the cold advance solenoid. So it primes every morning then turns off when warm and doesn't run all the time. It's just a matter of moving the trigger wire 2" to the shut off switch on the IP if I need it to run full-time.
 

Austin86250

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ok so you're running a rubber line no hard line, id still love pics also where did you find a check vlave the only ones I'm seeing are 50$

also i just dropped the tank not long ago as the shower head denigrated so it just has a rubber 3/8 hose as a pick up currently

also the starvation has appeared to go away for now i wound her up tight like 90 mph for a solid 30 seconds and had to get my buddy out of the mud so she held the governor for a while and didnt miss a beat is it possible that there is a break in period?
 
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Austin86250

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Alright, so even though my facet is not not giving me issues I am absolutely hooked on the mech and electric have 2 pumps so you’ll never be on the side of the road for a fuel pump and all the priming of the electric and all the reliability of the mech
Got my tees and check vakves ordered as no parts store around me had either In stock
I hope this is the end of my fuel pump issues
 

Jesus Freak

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Alright, so even though my facet is not not giving me issues I am absolutely hooked on the mech and electric have 2 pumps so you’ll never be on the side of the road for a fuel pump and all the priming of the electric and all the reliability of the mech
Got my tees and check vakves ordered as no parts store around me had either In stock
I hope this is the end of my fuel pump issues
Sweet, you might be past the fuel pump issue but the only issue you can have on a diesel IS a fueling issue. I've thought about the Holley red, but I'm over it. As far as priming on the road if you run out of fuel, that's why my wife has the bronco. If I break down she can come pull start me, it won't be the first time!
 

ROCK HARVEY

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If your shower head disintegrated you might have plastic chunks clogging up your fuel selector valve. Have you checked whether the problem is worse when you pull from the front tank vs. the rear? Maybe shine a flashlight and see if there are tiny bits of plastic in your facet strainer. I run a facet pump with no issues (with a mounting bracket identical to yours, great minds think alike!)
 

Austin86250

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If your shower head disintegrated you might have plastic chunks clogging up your fuel selector valve. Have you checked whether the problem is worse when you pull from the front tank vs. the rear? Maybe shine a flashlight and see if there are tiny bits of plastic in your facet strainer. I run a facet pump with no issues (with a mounting bracket identical to yours, great minds think alike!)
You are who I got inspiration from for bracket design!
 

Jesus Freak

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If your shower head disintegrated you might have plastic chunks clogging up your fuel selector valve. Have you checked whether the problem is worse when you pull from the front tank vs. the rear? Maybe shine a flashlight and see if there are tiny bits of plastic in your facet strainer. I run a facet pump with no issues (with a mounting bracket identical to yours, great minds think alike!)
I've said it before, but our trucks ARE THE fuel system. If you can spare not driving it for a bit, drop the tanks and refresh your shower heads, any seals, hoses, fuel selector valves that are questionable. I did that to my tow truck before I started driving it and I drive with confidence!
 

Austin86250

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I've said it before, but our trucks ARE THE fuel system. If you can spare not driving it for a bit, drop the tanks and refresh your shower heads, any seals, hoses, fuel selector valves that are questionable. I did that to my tow truck before I started driving it and I drive with confidence!
i already went though the front tank, put a hose on to extend the pickup as a alterative to a shower head as i wasn't planning on it being bad as i was just doing the sending unit like it was in pieces on the bottom of the tank so that was my quick fix for now
ill do the rear when i have a weekend to spare.
I'm doing the fuel pump tomorrow then after that I'm moving onto a fuel water separator to replace the firewall one
haven't decided if I'm going to do a 7.3 filter head swap or another filter head mounted on the frame and run one of those big cat filters im all ears for other peoples 6.9 fws setups
as for tank selector id like to run manual valves sometime
 

Jesus Freak

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I'm really happy with my 3way manual valve in the tow truck. I run waste oil so my set up is geared towards that, but no matter what it's hard for a manual brass 3way valve to go wonky.
 

Austin86250

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yea i agree hard to mess up, as soon as i find a way to cover the valves in the cab im doing it i like my truck to mostly have a stock look so valves coming thought the floor doesn't align with it
 

Austin86250

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This is the best way to start.

But since you already have the 2 Facets, don't run them in series- run them in parallel! In series they will still only supply 34gph. In parallel they will supply 68gph assuming your 3/8" supply line can handle that.

I personally kept my 40222 for priming and emergency but run the engine off a good quality mechanical lift pump, which keeps up with my maxed-out IP.
Thanks for the idea I finally executed it and so far I’m loving it
 

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