Extra radiator hose???

[chillman88]

Hey guys, I'm trying to figure out what might be leaking on Diego. Can't see anything visibly leaking but I've lost a significant amount of coolant over the last... Month? I'll admit, I don't check as often as I should. Level was good and full after it froze in December, I filled the overflow half full.

On my way to work, the stock temp gauge went to "L" on 'normal' which is normally on "O". It took several gallons to top off before I left work, 2-3 and took a little more when I got home. Temp stayed where it should the whole way home.

What is this hose and is it necessary? I can't find it on RockAuto and neither of my other trucks have it... But they're both manual transmission trucks.

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It looks old and cracked. Can't be a major leaker, but could very well be a part of a bigger problem. Runs down along the block and meets the radiator right next to the transmission cooler line.

 

[79jasper]

Trucks must have auto radiators or been autos at one point. The zf5 doesn't run a cooler. The zf6 does.
Iirc, it helps trans temp warmup times. I think some people delete it.

Edit: maybe I missed read. This truck is a auto, but the others aren't.
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[chillman88]

maybe I missed read. This truck is a auto, but the others aren't.

Correct. That's why I'm wondering if this coolant line is necessary. Is it needed because this truck is an auto or will I be fine without it because the manual trucks don't have it. I'd guess it must just provide extra flow across the transmission cooler?

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

it is there to put hot antifreeze to the bottom of the rad to help warm up the transmission cooler in cold weather.

 

[snicklas]

You will be fine without it. Plug the barb in the bottom of the radiator, and run a line from the head to the heater core. I deleted the one on my E4OD. Gary has also mentioned deleting it also.

 

[chillman88]

Thanks guys, it was damp so I don't know if that's the problem or not but it can't be helping with how cracked the rubber looks. I can deal with that and put the aux trans cooler in at the same time.

 

[chillman88]

Well here's what confuses me the most. It's been sitting two days since I filled it with water. Sitting with the block heater plugged in. I pulled the cap off and the level is full.

Can't be the cap could it? Radiator was pretty much empty Monday, and the overflow tank was too. Has to be seeping out somewhere, maybe only when it gets hot?

 

[Selahdoor]

Mine has a tiny leak. Leaks only when the truck is running. So I guess, not that unusual?

 

[chillman88]

Mine has a tiny leak. Leaks only when the truck is running. So I guess, not that unusual?

Yeah but... Still need to fix it. That'll drive me nuts either way!

 

[SuperDave]

My 91 f250 had that hose and when it busted I contemplated deleting it but decided instead it would be the perfect spot to add a coolant filter so that's what I did. Only thing is the factory fitting in the radiator has an office in it to limit coolant flow which you would have to swap for a regular fitting and let the resistance in the filter regulate the flow.

 

[tjsea]

It's possible it only leaks when the engine warms up and builds pressure. When the engine is cold with the cap on it may not leak if it's just a small leak because there will be a slight vacuum in the radiator. I'd fix or delete that hose and go from there.

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[BrianX128]

I've had a water pump that only leaked when the engine was vibrating also but would hold fine when things weren't spinning. Couldn't tell there was a leak because it went straight out the weep hole onto the crank pulley and flung wherever. You would always see one red drop hanging after the truck ran and it wouldn't leak at idle either..

 

[chillman88]

Well I drove it to the grocery store and back today without issue and still don't see anything leaking, but it's kinda hard to tell with ice melting off the cowl.

There's some rust staining on the side and back of the aluminum radiator below the cap so... Maybe it's weeping?

I've had a water pump that only leaked when the engine was vibrating also but would hold fine when things weren't spinning. Couldn't tell there was a leak because it went straight out the weep hole onto the crank pulley and flung wherever. You would always see one red drop hanging after the truck ran and it wouldn't leak at idle either..

Oh don't tell me that. It's like a year or two old!

It's possible it only leaks when the engine warms up and builds pressure. When the engine is cold with the cap on it may not leak if it's just a small leak because there will be a slight vacuum in the radiator. I'd fix or delete that hose and go from there.

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Yeah I was wondering about the "cap on vacuum" thing.

I think my plan is to delete that hose and put a new cap on. There's a couple hose clamps that might take another turn too. I'm going to try the Rotella ELC since the coolant is 90% water at this point.

I'm more upset that I just wasted $20 worth of VC8 than I am about losing $60 worth of coolant

 

[Fixnstuff]

Definitely check the return reservoir tank for a crack(s) in the bottom. It's made out of High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) thermo-plastic and although it's very strong plastic it is prone to cracking when it gets this old. Was it you that mentioned the cooling system icing up? That would definitely crack an old tank.

If you still have insulation on the fender well, the tank sits on that and the fibrous insulation will absorb the leak so you won't see it if it's leaking.

You need to remove the reservoir to inspect it. If it is cracked, the only effective way to patch it is by heat welding a piece of HDPE over the top of the defect as a patch, or possibly heat fusing (melting) some HDPE into a properly prepared crack.

The surface of the tank will be oxidized yellowish color and you'll need to sand the yellowed oxidized surface layer down to a less oxidized white surface to get a good bond.

There is no cold applied product such as an adhesive or sealant that will stick to HDPE well enough to make a good repair.

I was planning to use a micro butane torch to patch mine but then I found a good tank in a wrecking yard.

HDPE plastic is used in all sorts of over the counter product containers. Look for the recycle triangle on the bottom and the letters HDPE. You can use a piece of material from any of those containers for patch material. Antifreeze jugs for example or you might find thicker HDPE in other automotive products containers.

You can use jugs like that to practice on. Normally, thermoplastics are heat welded with adjustable high temperature (hot air) heat guns with various nozzles. I think that a micro-butane soldering torch would work fine with some practice first and I intend to do that with my old cracked one so I'll have a spare tank.

Regarding the hose going into the lower radiator tank. Just replace the hose for now. It appears that you live in New York and that is going to help your transmission come up to temperature considerably faster. Otherwise the antifreeze in the lower radiator tank, surrounding the internal transmission fluid heat exchanger is going to stay very cold for a long time causing a delay in the warm up of the transmission. An E4OD needs all the help it can get! A lot more heated fluid passes through that tiny orifice than what most people who look at it imagine so it DOES do what it was designed to do.

 

[chillman88]

Was it you that mentioned the cooling system icing up?

Yes that was me. I'll definitely check it thank you, but it's been sitting with just water in it for a week so I'm assuming that's not the problem. I'll have to pull it out to drain the tap water from it before refilling it with coolant so I'll be sure to look it over closely before I put it back.

As for the coolant hose we'll see. Not that I don't agree with you, I had the same thoughts, but I don't know what shape the metal tube is in and if that tube looks like it could be leaking I'll have to delete it for the time being until I can find a replacement.