?downpipe solution ats?

[NMB2]

I just modded my stock outlet housing tonight. Took me about 1.5hrs that was my test run. Its stupid easy.

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built it to work with the banks downpipe. All I had to do to the banks DP is cut off the flare.

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[dyoung14]

I just modded my stock outlet housing tonight. Took me about 1.5hrs that was my test run. Its stupid easy.

You must be registered for see images attach

built it to work with the banks downpipe. All I had to do to the banks DP is cut off the flare.

You must be registered for see images attach

so you made your own version of the ATS slip fit design right? i hope it seals good, most people say it wont seal to great

 

[oreocreaming]

how do you plan to clamp it? if it were me, i would think about drilling holes in 4 places and tap the holes. tighten in bolts on each hole to clamp the pipe evenly basically like what your ceiling fan glass would have.

 

[NMB2]

how do you plan to clamp it? if it were me, i would think about drilling holes in 4 places and tap the holes. tighten in bolts on each hole to clamp the pipe evenly basically like what your ceiling fan glass would have.

will use 2 exhaust clamps facing opposite directions. I have no concerns about sealing it. Its a very tight fit to jam it in there as-is.

 

[Dave Sponaugle]

I have the ATS slip fit outlet flange.

Had a problem one time, huge pot hole broke the thin strap metal I used to anchor the down pipe to the tranny.

1/4" bracket now, no more problems.

Even if the flange leaks a little, it don't take long and the soot seals the connection as long as the down pipe does not move in relation to the turbo.

 

[NMB2]

Thats what I planned to do dave. I have no concerns with this sealing or not working, and it cost me about $10 to build. If I had to do it again.. it would be even easier.

 

[rjjp]

Quicker spool up, or lower EGT noticed?

 

[NMB2]

Quicker spool up, or lower EGT noticed?

dont know yet. Go check out my build thread.

 

[rwilles]

IGNORANCE CORRECTION IN PROCESS EXPERIENCED USERS PLEASE IGNORE THIS POSTING (Unless you want a good laugh at my expense.)!
FELLOW NEWBS: THIS MAY HELP!

Well i finally figured out the flow on the turbo (Homer sound here). I pulled the heat shielding off the factory installed turbo and found 2 pipes to hot side of the turbo not one!?!?!? Don't know how I got it wrong in my head, I've looked at so many pictures of the turbos uninstalled somehow thought the air went in cold and came out hot. Ha. .....From "Remedial Turbo 101": There is an inflow and outflow on the hot side that 'pumps' the cold air, which also has a inflow and outflow!). I knew this but somehow had connected stuff inside my head, IDK.. maybe because the cold air system is so integrated into the top of the motor???? I think I'm to old to learn things the hard (again doing my best to make Homer proud!) way.

But i had a great supporting cast! Called Banks to say "How am i supposed to hook this round pipe up to the rectangle port with 4 bolts?" The tech on the line (on the phones for '7 years' but who will remain nameless, as i have a return shipping label) looked at the pictures of a Garrett turbo with me on line and was befuddled. 'Well that pipe won't fit!? I'll e-mail a ups shipping label to return it for free!".

Shipped back today and have ordered this pipe.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MBRP...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5adbdb154d ... to cut off the restriction on the elbow and slip or weld together after cutting off the Powerstroke bend. so there will be 2 cuts with a diamond edged blade on the chop saw. So i will have a system that is 3 inches from the outlet housing. The downpipe is 3 inches and should fit just fine as the truck already has a body lift strait from Ford... I have plenty of clearance after the sawsall works the firewall seam. I'll call Western Steel here in COS to get some 4 or 5 inch stainless for a stack out the bed!

Thanks to all for not flame throwing me into the dust bin, but a little wiser guidance (like, 'hey dummy') would have been appreciated!

 

[Fordsandguns]

IGNORANCE CORRECTION IN PROCESS EXPERIENCED USERS PLEASE IGNORE THIS POSTING (Unless you want a good laugh at my expense.)!
FELLOW NEWBS: THIS MAY HELP!

Well i finally figured out the flow on the turbo (Homer sound here). I pulled the heat shielding off the factory installed turbo and found 2 pipes to hot side of the turbo not one!?!?!? Don't know how I got it wrong in my head, I've looked at so many pictures of the turbos uninstalled somehow thought the air went in cold and came out hot. Ha. .....From "Remedial Turbo 101": There is an inflow and outflow on the hot side that 'pumps' the cold air, which also has a inflow and outflow!). I knew this but somehow had connected stuff inside my head, IDK.. maybe because the cold air system is so integrated into the top of the motor???? I think I'm to old to learn things the hard (again doing my best to make Homer proud!) way.

But i had a great supporting cast! Called Banks to say "How am i supposed to hook this round pipe up to the rectangle port with 4 bolts?" The tech on the line (on the phones for '7 years' but who will remain nameless, as i have a return shipping label) looked at the pictures of a Garrett turbo with me on line and was befuddled. 'Well that pipe won't fit!? I'll e-mail a ups shipping label to return it for free!".

Shipped back today and have ordered this pipe.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MBRP...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5adbdb154d ... to cut off the restriction on the elbow and slip or weld together after cutting off the Powerstroke bend. so there will be 2 cuts with a diamond edged blade on the chop saw. So i will have a system that is 3 inches from the outlet housing. The downpipe is 3 inches and should fit just fine as the truck already has a body lift strait from Ford... I have plenty of clearance after the sawsall works the firewall seam. I'll call Western Steel here in COS to get some 4 or 5 inch stainless for a stack out the bed!

Thanks to all for not flame throwing me into the dust bin, but a little wiser guidance (like, 'hey dummy') would have been appreciated!

Hey, sometimes it's hard to picture how something works until you have actually held it and worked on it/ seen how it looks installed.

 

[dyoung14]

Im using the factory ford turbo and the factory downpipe and i can build 13psi under WOT with very low smoke, i was building 10 psi smoke free till i turned it up more, im happy with mine, It spools as soon as i mash it to the floor i cruise at about 2-3 psi at 55 light throttle floor it and it instantly jumps to 5-7PSI and sets you into the seat i hit 10 psi by 24-2500 rpm and 13 at around 3000, i can even rev my engine in neutral and see almost 10 psi now

 

[rwilles]

Conversation today with Patrick at Central Motive Power Service, 6301 N. Broadway, Denver, CO 80216. Phone is 800.822.4332 x205. They are the Garrett Master distributor that Ats purchased the turbos and gated elbows through.

The stock turbo is a Garrett TC43 and was only available in our trucks. It is a T04b housing with an internally waist gated elbow, Garrett part number 447 444-10 (original equipment 2 3/8ths v band neck) and upgrade part number 447 444-11 (Upgraded housing and 3 inch slip fit connection).

The best part is after the one I pick up tomorrow, they have 1 upgraded elbow IN STOCK! Get while the getting is good!

Info about the upgrade elbow from Central Motive is that the last order of 50 that ATS made is still unpaid, 2 years later. So when Garrett contacted CM about the same time to find out if there would be any further demand for the parts CM indicated that there was no interest and Garrett destroyed the castings for this part.....As others have observed ATS is not a long term solution for anything on these turbos.

However CM might have some options. 1) Patrick is sending an e-mail to the other 4 Master distributors in north america searching for the upgraded elbows in old stock. Will post answer here.

2) He is checking to see if the 5 bolt waist-gated flange is a possibility (concerned about waist-gate actuator) with an early power stroke downpipe.

After a year of waiting for Ats it seems like I've won the lotto. Housing elbow and downpipe under $350 vs $550 from Ats (If it wasn't phantom-ware).

 

[RLDSL]

Info about the upgrade elbow from Central Motive is that the last order of 50 that ATS made is still unpaid, 2 years later. So when Garrett contacted CM about the same time to find out if there would be any further demand for the parts CM indicated that there was no interest and Garrett destroyed the castings for this part.....As others have observed ATS is not a long term solution for anything on these turbos.


After a year of waiting for Ats it seems like I've won the lotto. Housing elbow and downpipe under $350 vs $550 from Ats (If it wasn't phantom-ware).

In other words, ATS has been lyeing through their teeth ( as usual ) about the things being on back order since obviously they had no intention of paying for the last batch they bought, so there wasn't a chance in hell that they were going to get any more, yet they have been stringing people along telling them they are on their way Typical ATS BS
I'm sure glad you found what you wanted and ATS didn't get any of your money That company does not deserve any money from this community the way they treat us.At least we're not alone, it looks like they treat their suppliers even worse.

 

[TLBREWER]

I'm in the process of putting a factory turbo on my '91. Needed a few odds and ends and made the mistake of calling ATS a few weeks ago and got the same BS run around. Said they were in the process of re-tooling to make the kits and parts again, but it would be 6-8 months out. Not only is their customer service horrible, but the BS that flows... Anyway, I called Banks this morning and payed way too much for a 2.5" factory downpipe. However, the customer service was excellent and it will be delivered to my door next week for $112. Headache resolved.

Now for an oil supply line...

Tom

 

[dyoung14]

i would sugest making your own outof flexible steel line, i had the factory one but the rubber o ring in one end of it was so hard it wouldnt move out of the threads and i could get it started so i made my own, that should be the easiest part of everything,

I drove mine for a hole day without a downpipe on it, the only thing that bothered me was how loud the whistle was in the cab, when i put the downpipe on it, it just cut it down enough to stand it,