I just replaced it with the 38448 and it's so tight now I am having a really hard time getting the latch to release the door so I can get in the truck....is this normal? Does it need time to wear grooves into it?
Door banging over bumps
- Thread starter cardana24
- Start date
I just replaced it with the 38448 and it's so tight now I am having a really hard time getting the latch to release the door so I can get in the truck....is this normal? Does it need time to wear grooves into it?
Someone may have adjusted the striker inward to help it, and now it's too far in. Make a scratch mark around the striker, loosen it and move it out a little bit. The hole it mounts in is huge.
For the door banging over bumps, if none of the above easy fixes cure it, there is one harder fix that I stumbled upon by accident. When I was repairing the frame on a 80 f150 I had, i was replacing the crossmember that the rear of the cab sits on. I found a good rust free rear frame section from the junkyard from a later truck, brought it home, and noticed that under the large rubber cab mount, the crossmember had a nice round rusted out hole right under the rubber. When I lifted the cab up on my truck, sure enough it was the same way, completely rusted out, but it looked like a clean round hole right under the mount. Once I patched the newer crossmember and installed it, that's when I noticed the door banging i used to have was gone. Stands to reason, since the whole back corner of the cab was now supported by the frame.
I am thinking if you crawled under the truck with a crowbar, and tried to pry up on the back corner of the cab, and if it moves up and down, you have the same problem.
I am thinking if you crawled under the truck with a crowbar, and tried to pry up on the back corner of the cab, and if it moves up and down, you have the same problem.
I went out and messed with it for a little bit and no good news yet. I tried swapping the new plastic bolt cover to old striker assembly and I am still having the same problem. When I close the door all the way I have to pull with all of my mite to get it open, it is not releasing when you push the door button to open the door. If I put the striker back in that has not plastic cover it works as it should but I am not fixing the original problem if I leave a striker in with no plastic insert. Has any one ever had this problem or know how to fix it?
Just saw this on full sized bronco forum:
*Watch out for the Dorman HELP brand stuff now....the driver/passenger door striker kit w/ bushings, 38445 are not fffin good..bushing diameter is way off and striker frame is off as well....it will bolt-in, but aligning it for a no-rattle fit is efffin a waste of time and possible damage to passenger or driver. the Dorman HELP tail gate striker bushings pn 38424 are a good fit & the door bushings driver/passenger bushings are incl. in this kit & fit better than the 38445 part! Made from urethane thermoplastic. assortment contains 2 each of the following sizes: 1/2" I.D. x 5/8" and 1/2" I.D. x 1"
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums *
**found this one too**
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/981056-fyi-door-lock-striker-plastic-sleeves.html
Just saw this on full sized bronco forum:
*Watch out for the Dorman HELP brand stuff now....the driver/passenger door striker kit w/ bushings, 38445 are not fffin good..bushing diameter is way off and striker frame is off as well....it will bolt-in, but aligning it for a no-rattle fit is efffin a waste of time and possible damage to passenger or driver. the Dorman HELP tail gate striker bushings pn 38424 are a good fit & the door bushings driver/passenger bushings are incl. in this kit & fit better than the 38445 part! Made from urethane thermoplastic. assortment contains 2 each of the following sizes: 1/2" I.D. x 5/8" and 1/2" I.D. x 1"
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums *
**found this one too**
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/981056-fyi-door-lock-striker-plastic-sleeves.html
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Just to follow up on this thread. The replacement striker that I poster earlier would not work properly. The door would close then it was almost impossible to get it open, so I tried what other people had suggested on other sites and bought the busing assortment. Here is what I got http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-p?searchTerm=tailgate+bushing&zoneAssigned=1
It's available in the help secton at Advanced Auto. I unscrewed the bolt from the striker assmbly and changed out the busing. I put everything back together and now it's working great. I hope this can help others because I could never find a link to what part people where getting when only getting the replacement bushings. Thanks for the help guys.
It's available in the help secton at Advanced Auto. I unscrewed the bolt from the striker assmbly and changed out the busing. I put everything back together and now it's working great. I hope this can help others because I could never find a link to what part people where getting when only getting the replacement bushings. Thanks for the help guys.
bagpiperjosh
Full Access Member
I just ended up using elec tape like someone suggested, it was free and works well
I know there are other ways to fill the void, I just wanted something that would last a little longer than tape. The link that I posted is on $4 and come with two peices that are useable for the front door strikers on my 94.
SparkandFire
We're drinking beer
How's the condition of your door pins? I had jiggly door syndrome that was fixed with replacement door pins and a striker post adjustment.
damac
Full Access Member
When we got our clunker it had no material on the striker pins. I had some 1/2" pex tubing laying around from a travel trailer rebuild. Cut a piece to length, slit it down the middle and popped it on with the the seam pointing away from the truck and epoxy. Niether door moved until we junked the truck. Never had an issue with shutting or opening the door, and the material is a little more forgiving than some of the cheap plastic junk I see on the shelves.
lilredtdi
Registered User
Up from the dead. Bought the Dorman replacement from Rockauto for 10 bucks, did not work $%^&*^$@%$!!!!. flange on pin was too big. Wrapped old one in electrical tape and adjusted in a smidge. Worked great.
I posted the busing that actually works...I just re quoted it above. But yeah, the replacement striker did not work for me either, but the bushings in the link above should do the trick.
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