Damaging effects of running garbage fuels

[Agnem]

We get an amazing assortment of pumps coming in through the door with a variety of ills, most all of which are caused by fuel and filtration problems. What concerns me now, especially since I want to continue to supply Moose products for a long time yet, is the depletion of quality cores that I am now witnessing. We continue to keep costs low on the Moose Products by salvaging parts from returned cores, as well as having suitable cores for rebuilding and performing advance exchanges. With the escalation in junk fuel usage, more key components like the head and rotor are being scrapped due to excessive damage, and our supply of cores is dwindling. When we have to start buying new head and rotor assemblies to supply pumps (a $400 proposition), the cost to everyone is going to go up. So I guess you could say we are facing a socialist pump situation. The money saving efforts of some, are eventually costing everyone more. If those of you reading this have pumps on shelves in barns or other environments that are not kept in an environmentally stable and dry atmosphere, you should do one of two things. Either move the pump indoors, to where comfortable living conditions are kept, or keep the whole pump completely submerged in diesel fuel, mineral spirits, Kerosene or the like. Take that side cover off and look inside and see if everything is bright and shiny, or dull or worse. If it's not bright and shiny, it's probably done.

 

[RLDSL]

You can store an injection pump, but you MUST completely fill the thing eo where there is no air whatsoever inside the thing and cap all of teh openings with those little plastic caps TIGHTLY that normally come on the things from a rebuild shop. You can generally buy a handful cheap at your local pump shop ( if you know them well enough, they'll probably just give them to you) If sealed properly, they can store indefinitely, but a little humidity and air can set up in an open pump and ruin it in short order.

Around here the humidity gets into EVERYTHING stored if it's not inside in climate control, you can count on surface rust beginning to form within a month or so on stagnant parts ( iron rusts, aluminum pits, they all get funky in one way of another ), although certain metals are stranglely resistant. We've been in the process of rescuing a '41 chev from out behind the barn thats been there forever thats in rough shape and when we got the hood finally opened, the crazy carbureter had no corrosion on it of any kind ... go figure
Even hydraulic systems , if the fluid hasnt been changed every 2 years, will have tons of water in it and a stored vehicle will quickly find its hydraulics rusting from teh inside out ( if not boiling and bursting storage tanks on master cylinders in teh summer... thats a real wild one to see, when it gets so friggen hot that the moisture in the sealed system in direct sunlight blows the tank seams wide open

Around here the humidity condensation will even get into automatic transmissions that sit as little as 4 months and get the clutches to hang( a little trans-x knocks that loose, but it freaks you out the first time it happens , Ive got one of those out there right now I need to deal with. Dang thing sat up for a while till I figured out how to open the hood with a busted hood cable and now it slips like crazy)

I came from a dry climate originally, so it took LOT of getting used to this borderline swamp climate living ( borderline, HA, I live about 2 miles from a stinking swamp...at least there's no gators in it... well nobodys seen any in there for about fifty years :- )

 

[BigRigTech]

I used to run WMO when I drove an IDI daily during the summer months. Filtered to 5 micron, never an issue. I have a pump here that might be good for a core/parts if you need one Mel. Free if anyone wants to pay the shipping for it. I'm putting a PSD in my 92 this spring so my IDI will go into storage or be sold. It works good, just not enough power for my needs.

 

[gdhillon]

To bad your in pei . I wonder how much it would be to crate and ship the motor

 

[BigRigTech]

To bad your in pei . I wonder how much it would be to crate and ship the motor

I'm in Nova Scotia, just outside Halifax. As soon as spring is here and I don't have to plow anymore the 7.3PSD is going in. The IDI I have in there now has about 170km on it. Runs good, doesn't smoke and doesn't burn oil....Just need more power in my truck...8500lbs empty and when I'm using the truck it's usually to haul/tow something.

 

[SyicoIDI]

What the heck is that, diesel mixed with regurgitated hampster food? No wonder I stick to my guns and bite the bullet at the pump.

it looks like all the crispys at the bottom of a McDonalds frialator.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i must ask........if that is what the injection pump looks like, then what does the inside of the engine look like? i mean i know that the stuff gets burned but it still has to make a bit of a mess on the inside of things.

yeah, if you can get WMO/WVO at good price or for free then go for it, but i don't want to change my IP every time or every other time i change the oil.

quite honestly, if you are that concerned about mpg then you should not have bought a diesel to begin with or at least have another daily driver.

 

[79jasper]

it looks like all the crispys at the bottom of a McDonalds frialator.

They don't get much different foods in them.
Try one used for everything. (Chicken fried steak, fries, mushrooms, chicken fried chicken, onion rings, blooming onion, shrimp, fried pickles, just about everything you can think of then some more.)
Cleaned every night and still would get a gallon of gunk at the bottom.

 

[kc0stp]

Umm hate to break it to ya but thats rust NOT from "garbage" fuels (unless it was really badly filtered and had a lot of water content)

 

[DragRag]

You drive 45,000 miles a year????

I come up with a fuel cost of ~$307 / 1000 miles (assuming $4/gal and 13 mpg) so yes you would save enough $$$ to pay for a pump and injectors every ~3k miles.

This assumes, however that you can get junk fuel for free with no other overhead and neglects the time spend in fuel prep and truck repair.

Assuming you figure in all these factors, it is probably cheaper in pure $$, but you also have to factor in how much your time and the headache factor is worth.

If you figure all these things in and still come out ahead, then well and good all the more power to you. However, many people don't factor it all in and think they're going to get something for nothing... that's what the thread is about.

Don't assume what I drive, your very close though. I have 300 mile days on average 4-5. Times a months, miles vary from day to day. Plus I have other idi's on the road. The saving adds up faster than fast. Fuel is a huge factor for me...

 

[argve]

and i distinctly remember,,being laughed at,,at a certain idi weekend...........................

so what you're butt hurt over it....

I don't remember making fun of you, might have turned my nose up to running waste motor oil at the time but I'm pretty sure I didn't laugh at ya.

 

[Hardass559]

voice of experiance iv acutaly had a fuel filter turn inside out and tear a hole in it from haveing the need to get home on a clogged filter partly bc i ignored the fuelfilter light cause it would stay off for weeks and then turn on for a day iv never seen a water in filter light turn on bc of water either but i have had some hard times and have run some nasty fuels so at the end of the day filter ishues dont shock me 35 bucks for a cheep parts store filter is a bit expencive especialy if they fail and let dirty fuel thrue but i hafta ask how does some one get to the screen in the ip ? would be nice to clean them or replace them every say 50 thousand miles since ther soposta be a life time of the pump item

 

[sassyrel]

so what you're butt hurt over it....

I don't remember making fun of you, might have turned my nose up to running waste motor oil at the time but I'm pretty sure I didn't laugh at ya.

not butt hurt at all,as one other poster refered to it..just commenting..i believe,,is was a community consensus about the oil burning....apparently,,i should have said nothing..correct??

 

[bagpiperjosh]

My thought is this... I paid $500 for my truck.Its already 30 years old. Probably put about $2500 give or take, to get it running and inspected. If i get 2-3 years out of it and spend about $20 or so each fillup. I would say i made out pretty darn well.

 

[icanfixall]

My thought is this... I paid $500 for my truck.Its already 30 years old. Probably put about $2500 give or take, to get it running and inspected. If i get 2-3 years out of it and spend about $20 or so each fillup. I would say i made out pretty darn well.

What your posting makes economical sence. What works for some may not work for others is all I can say. I really would like to run something differant that diesel. But to do this I will need a refractory tower and a vacuum pump. Then send the waste motor oil thru the tower taking the overheads off. This is how gas, diesel or bunker grade oil is made. Its all in a process of towers taking off the material off the top of the towers and the bottoms off the bottom of the tower.. The heavies leave thru the bottom and they are generally thought of as trash unless thats what your refining for. Like if you are doing a dehydration cut where the water is boiled off the top and the bottoms are saved for later precessing as fuel. Then the bottoms are injected into the vacuum tower that has heat applied to a reboiler at the bottom side of the process and the tower is under vacuum. The vacuum allows the feed material to fractionate at a lower temp. the lites go up and the heavies go down. Its a little more complex than that with teps, inches of vacuum and feed rates but its a simple material fractionation proces to get what you want in the end product. The process will take the soot, water and metals out of the finished oil thats now a fuel. The oil refinerys have several takeoffs on many of the towers. The high grade white gasolene comes off very near the top where diesel comes off near the bottom. The lower the takeoff is the heavier and thicker the fuel is. In the power plants I worked in for many years the fuel oil burned in the boliers was called bunker grde oil. It had to be kept how to around 150 degrees because it forze solid at 102 degrees. It acted like hard butter when it froze up. All the oil lines had steam tracing on them. Thats a 3/8 or 1/3 inch copper tube under the lines and the insulation. Get that oil on your clothes and you throw them away. One guy thried to wash his oiled up pants at hom with hot water in the washing machine... Well it oiled up that machine so bad he had to buy another one... The wife was not happy either...