Current radiator recommendations?

catbird7

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What should I expect to pay for a recore?
If I remember correctly price for removing tanks and cleaning a good but dirty four core was $160.00. Replacing the entire four core and installing old tanks was $500ish and replacing core with superduty five core and old tanks was $750.00. Champion four core was around $300.00 ,their rads are beautiful and appear "beefy" and while my experience wasn't good, I'll also add it doesn't seem to be the norm.
 

square1

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What should I expect to pay for a recore?
Recore cost me about 2~2 1/3 times the cost of a 3 core champion.
The variable on total recore cost will be automatic or manual transmission. The automatic, which minr is, has about 1/3 more core material than the manual. Labor will be the same pretty much.
That brings up another issue. The transmission fluid tank in the replacements are much smaller according to the shop that recored mine.
Anyone in central Michigan looking for a shop, I'd be happy to recommend the one that did mine. PM me.
 

YJMike92

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Recore cost me about 2~2 1/3 times the cost of a 3 core champion.
The variable on total recore cost will be automatic or manual transmission. The automatic, which minr is, has about 1/3 more core material than the manual. Labor will be the same pretty much.
That brings up another issue. The transmission fluid tank in the replacements are much smaller according to the shop that recored mine.
Anyone in central Michigan looking for a shop, I'd be happy to recommend the one that did mine. PM me.

There is always a trade-off with price versus quality. Some people don't fully realize that.
I've heard it referred to as the Walmart syndrome.
"When someone pays as little money possible for an item and expects the item to be of the highest quality"
Unfortunately, it causes radiator shops and other businesses to go out of business because they can't compete with the pricing of the cheap stuff. The good companies that are left have to raise their prices because they don't have enough sales volume to make a profit at lower prices. It's a visous cycle.
 

DrCharles

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The variable on total recore cost will be automatic or manual transmission. The automatic, which minr is, has about 1/3 more core material than the manual.

Interesting. I assume that's due to the presence of an ATF cooler in the lower tank? I thought the main core itself had the same amount of area regardless. My truck's a manual so that wouldn't be a problem either way.
 

MtnHaul

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I've been running a Spectra plastic/aluminum for 3 years with zero issues. Another member here advised me to switch my rad cap for one a few lbs lower, maybe even as low as 7lbs I can't recall exactly, than the factory spec as he had done so for several years without issue. Mine has been bounced around a lot and even when I've tried to get things hot I can't get my temp gauge to go over 210-215. Admittedly I wish I had had the time to look around and get mine re-cored but I needed an off-the-shelf solution and NAPA had the Spectra's in stock.
 

BioFarmer93

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square1

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Interesting. I assume that's due to the presence of an ATF cooler in the lower tank? I thought the main core itself had the same amount of area regardless. My truck's a manual so that wouldn't be a problem either way.
This one is 23" x 30" and has 3 fittings on the loeer tank I assumed for auto trans
http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product/radiator/ford/1993/f-250/base/73l-v8/39242/1124660
This one is 15"x37" without the extra lower tank fittings
http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product/radiator/ford/1993/f-250/base/73l-v8/39243/1124660
though I don't see in the description one is for auto & the other for manual. Mine being auto measures 23"x30"
 

square1

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Wes, was that you saying that you run a 7# cap? Thought you said it somewhere???
I'd like to hear some discussion on 7 PSI vs. 13 PSI. Cooling system pressure is dual purpose. It prevents boiling but also fights cavitation. I can't find anything that says if higher pressures are better at reducing cavitation. The shop that recored mine says they always (not just diesels, not just IDIs, but always) recommend getting rid of higher PSI relief caps and running 7 PSI.
Given its a fatal flaw in IDIs that you cannot see signs until it's too late I'm wary. Would love to hear some science or engineering on the subject.
 

Golden Helmet

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I'm not sure if it's true, but I was told once that one of the main perks of using the 7# cap is it makes it more difficult for head gaskets to fail. Anyone know if that's true?
 

catbird7

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Seem to recall reading in Ford shop manual that diesel radiator's cannot be "rodded". Suggest verifying with reputable shop. I think cleaning options are limited to chemicals and ultrasound. I'll try to locate exact Ford recommendation and pass along.
 
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