Brass caps!!!

ISPKI

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The plus to the three barb design (to me anyway) is that it is a much tighter fit,and you probably woudn't need clamps (I overkill things though).For the amount of times the hoses have to come off,I don't think it's a big deal.



Rock

Those barb fittings are intended not to use clamps at all, supposedly it actually causes the barbs to cut into the inner lining of the hose. Since alot of fuel hose actually has a very thing lining to help it stand up to chemicals, those small cuts can actually causes premature hose failure.

It looks like those are threaded into the cap which means he could change the fitting style very easily to a single bump designed to be used with fuel injection clamps.
 

Farmer Rock

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Those barb fittings are intended not to use clamps at all, supposedly it actually causes the barbs to cut into the inner lining of the hose. Since alot of fuel hose actually has a very thing lining to help it stand up to chemicals, those small cuts can actually causes premature hose failure.

It looks like those are threaded into the cap which means he could change the fitting style very easily to a single bump designed to be used with fuel injection clamps.
I was talking about squeeze clamps.I never use worm clamps on these.



Rock
 

Booyah45828

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Would you even need clamps anyways? There isn't supposed to be pressure on the return lines to begin with, so as long as the hose fits tight over the barb I feel the seal would be sufficient.
 

Farmer Rock

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Would you even need clamps anyways? There isn't supposed to be pressure on the return lines to begin with, so as long as the hose fits tight over the barb I feel the seal would be sufficient.
You wouldn't need clamps,but I would probably use them for cheap insurance.


Rock
 

Black dawg

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Those all have the single bump that Russ was talking about. The brass caps have the barbed ends on them that make it next to impossible to remove old, stiff rubber hoses without cutting them. I have to agree with Russ on this one.


I agree also. Single bump would be plenty. And yes, heat will get hose off of a barbed fitting........like burning it off.
 

Cubey

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That may actually work. Although I've had brand new hose that wouldn't come back off of barbed fittings after it's been installed.

Yeah I've seen that too, just have to grab the hose with pliers where the hose is over the carb, and twist back and forth while pulling. It doesn't tear up the hose or cause leaks when put back, at least in my experience.
 

nelstomlinson

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Hey, Dregs, do you want us to buy those via ebay, or would you like us to deal directly with you so ebay doesn't take a cut? Post your address and I can send a check, you ship after it clears.
 

Dregs Garage

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Hello IDI Enthusiast,

I have listed them on ebay, just getting them out there. I only have 9 of the 1 barb dead end caps and 9 of the tees... so first come first served... @IDIoit and @Selahdoor!

as @IDIoit said $260 for just the caps with o-rings. + 9.00 shipping

kits is $280 + 16.00 shipping

paypal, venmo, check or cash if you're close to Billings, Montana

I Know its a few bucks more than Justin's rails.... but i have then in stock... and mine are way easier to instill!!!

Happy New Year and God Bless you and your family
 

Cubey

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It's nice to see someone producing aftermarket stuff like that, but I personally can't see the need for metal ones. Plastic ones seem to last for over 3 decades. And a full set or caps costs $35 from Autozone along with hose, 16 pinch clamps, 16 o-rings, and 8 copper washers for injector installation. I guess if you're wanting them vanity reasons on a show truck then brass are nice... but for everyday truck use where you just want caps that work? Nah
 

IDIoit

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got my caps on order, tracking puts them here later this week.
altho you can trust that as a politician/weathermans word.
USPS done robbed me out of 15k for the last month.

anyways, i cant wait to get them on!
but i was thinking....

if these take off for you, @Dregs Garage you should consider making a manifold along with it.

this is one thing ive just pieced together myself, until the 61 F100 build, where i repurposed a chunk of an old R&D rail. deletes that back olive for those with a hard IP return line

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Cubey

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Cubey, I've had to toss one or two of the plastic caps from each kit I've bought, because they wouldn't seal somehow. Plastic is still cheaper ...

Weird. The plastic caps on my F250 have been fine. I paid a lot more at O'Reilly though because I didn't know AutoZone was so cheap on theirs. And reusing old caps has been fine on the RV. Maybe I'm just lucky.
 
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