body lift

Exekiel69

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I'll keep that in mind thank You. I thought the kit comes with all the hardware and bushings for the lift mmmm, I will get replacement bolts for all this. I'll be ordering bushings for the leaf springs and soon the air bags for them too.

Thank You.
 

Double-S-Diesel

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lift arent that bad to do , I only have 2 OBS truck with 3" body lifts.
worst part is the core support bushings, the bolts never just spin right out , had to cut both of them , but was able to reuse the bushings.
fan shroud on an IDI needs notched at the bottom for the hoses other than that use the drop brackets in the kit.
the shifter will be your worst nightmare, the floor pan needs cut and the boot moved back , and a piece installed in front of it. luckily you only have a 2wd.
for some reason on the driver side the back of the head hits the firewall, bend this section before lifting it is easier.
as for the front bumper the brakets in the kit want you to use only one bolt on each side. I modified my stock ones to work but didnt raise the bumper the full 3"s
as for the steering shaft there is a spacer that extends the lenght.
the rear bumper was left stock, and a platemade to fill the gap.
also with a body lift forget using a gooseneck or 5the wheel trailer.
there is no difference in kits between cab styles
Ive been there done that with the lifts , both trucks have body lifts.
Nick
 

Exekiel69

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lift arent that bad to do , I only have 2 OBS truck with 3" body lifts.
worst part is the core support bushings, the bolts never just spin right out , had to cut both of them , but was able to reuse the bushings.
fan shroud on an IDI needs notched at the bottom for the hoses other than that use the drop brackets in the kit.
the shifter will be your worst nightmare, the floor pan needs cut and the boot moved back , and a piece installed in front of it. luckily you only have a 2wd.
for some reason on the driver side the back of the head hits the firewall, bend this section before lifting it is easier.
as for the front bumper the brakets in the kit want you to use only one bolt on each side. I modified my stock ones to work but didnt raise the bumper the full 3"s
as for the steering shaft there is a spacer that extends the lenght.
the rear bumper was left stock, and a platemade to fill the gap.
also with a body lift forget using a gooseneck or 5the wheel trailer.
there is no difference in kits between cab styles
Ive been there done that with the lifts , both trucks have body lifts.
Nick


Thank You Nick for the excellent tips, I sure don't want to loose the gooseneck but I remember some leave the plate for it in the original location and lift the rest of the body.

Also, what is involved on a suspensio lift? I do have a 2wd.

Thank You.
 

Darrin Tosh

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Hey EZ, I saw this ad at the other site, not shure if it will help ypu but I thought it was interesting,....

Date 09-25-2006 @ 10:45:58 PM
Name Brandan Orcutt
E-mail [email protected]
City Houston
State Texas
Phone 7138946800
Item 2wd lift kit
Price $350
Description I have gone to a dana 60 and converted to 4x4 so the 2wd lift kit is up for sale. If you would like to see what it looks like my user name is brandan. Just look at my photos. It includes everything you need to lift your 2wd to clear 35's easy maby even 37's. I have the axle pivot brackets, coil springs, radius arm drop brackets, if you want you can have the spindles, radius arms, twin traction beams, coil spring buckets, and all that other stuff that came off during the conversion. I paid $400 just for the coil springs alone so im asking only $350 for everything. But all offers will be entertained and trades are always considered. As im in need of a good chip, 6" lift springs for the rear, a 4x4 shifter with linkage, dana 60 front sway bar, or a tailgate. Brandan


Hope it helps,
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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My truck has only the cab and sleeper lifted.

I have a steel flat and left it at the level it always was.

;Sweet The body-lift in no way affected my trailer pulling abilities, as my hitches remained where they were. ;Sweet

Like already said, for some mysterious reason cookoo , at three inches, part of the head comes against the firewall, making the cab into a giant sounding box.

The offending sheetmetal is near impossible to get at with the engine in place.

:D Everything is WAY so much easier to access and work on; it is simply amazing how much difference a mere two inches makes. :D
 

Exekiel69

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Well I mailed the guy and He still have it for sale so I'd like to buy the suspension lift from Him. Now He said it is for a TTB front, what is that?
Most important, how do I know what kind of front I have on my truck????

Thank You.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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TTB front is that stupid flimsy limber 4x4 front axle that Ford put in for a few years.

Not a straight solid front axle.
 

Agnem

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All of the 2WD trucks have a form of IFS. TTB tends to refer to the 4X4 variety only though (Twin Traction Beam). And while many will argue that it's not as great as a solid front axle, there are distinct advantages that should garner it a bit more respect then to call it a stupid flimsy front axle. There is no bump steer, the ride quality is excellent, and it's a heck of a lot better than that double wishbone stuff that prevails today.
 

ttman4

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EZ, my experience....

EZ, couple year ago I did a homemade 2" body lift on mine.....tried it & liked it. Last year I added 2" more, total of 4" body lift. & I like it....lots of working room. Lots more underhood room, & heat seems to blow on out instead of up thru floorboard. & I keep adding too many other goodies under hood & under cab& bed.
But I had to get used to the big, open wheelwell look. Had to relearn how to step outa this thing too!!!
When I did the first 2" my shift stick bottomed out on the back side of the Boot hole & I messed up the boot. When I went to the 4" I had to trim the backof the hole & add some cover plate over the front. My stick was lower & closer to the seat. I also bought a later model boot....'94-96 I think, that was bigger both ways.

Finally I just fab'ed a 3" extension to bolt into my stick with a different, more likable angle....bolts in where the 2 piece split in the shifter is. I wish I had done this part before I trimmed the shifter hole. I also had found a boot from a, I think, '02-'04 International semi that was big enough to cover my new hole & had the left lower angle where the stick comes thru the boot, but decided not to use.
I chopped & added a 3" extension in the slide part of the steering shaft tube.....but I missed 1 little mess-up.

Apparently, unbeknowing to me, when I had the cab & front all jacked up on my floor jacks & rolling round, tweeking, looking, thinking, & trying out, I musta got the steering shaft leather joint....the one closest to the steering box, in a real bind & tore it some or something. Also, the 4"lift puts this joint in a near, maxed out bind.....which I fixed later....after I d***near bought the farm.
After I got this thing back on the road I noticed a bit more road walk, or rather a bit more steering play, but thought I'd check out later & get realigned....
Couple months later, after getting used to this new look my truck had, I decided to do a 2 1/2" frame lift & see what "happened" & if I'd like it. (I happened to have 2 1/2" rear leaf blocks already) I fabed the front blocks under the coils.
Now this threw my camber out bigtime. I looked & looked for brackets to lower the I-beam ends, found some, but they too spendy for me, everybody wanted to sell big complete kits etc. I just wanted the brackets, so I fabed my own....dropped them 3". Had to put in new eccentric max deg radius arm bushings to get the caster right too.

But I drove this thing round for couple of months BEFORE I built the I-beam brackets.....steering was a bit looser & she seemed to wonder a little. But all was A-OK for timebeing till I could build the lowering brackets to correct the camber....going into curves was slightly squirrley, but just don't daydream. (I live on the edge anyway)
Well, during this couple of really busy months the steering got progressively looser & looser....got to sorta "grab the wheel & give'r a fling, then fling it the other way....drive right down the middle of the flings & you can learn to keep it in the road...."

Finally, while servicing this thing one night, I decided to check the steering box slack. The 'ol DEVIL HISSELF:shocked: had been chaseing me round & I musta had an angel :angel: on my shoulder......I was, maybe, one bump from buying the farm!!!!
The leather joint on the steering shaft was completely torn into, sitting about 1/2 itself to 1 side, & looked really ragged.....a chill went thru me!!!!!

In summary, I like this truck lifted like this. It handles very well now, tows good, rides good. I do notice more body flex than before when crossing curbs & stuff. Incidently, I moved the cab, front clip, & bed back about 3/4" for more engine/firewall room when I had it all jacked up and adjusting things. I also keep an eye on my body mt. bolts....had to tighten only once, so far.

For all the time I've played round with this thing in the last 3-4 years I could have bought a new one.....even at 50 cents/hour.....
Kept me off the streets & outa the bars though:Sly :Sly :Sly
 
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