well the fuse is continuing to blow even after that wire is deleted but even with the wire cut the hazards worked? not sure what wire i identified as "blue"But now you have no turnsignals correct?
yea wiring diagrams do confuse me, that's why I'm hear not just reading my chilton digramsObviously you can't read the electrical diagram above. If you need help with it, just say so. You can see the hazards are fed by a different fuse and are on the right side of the diagram.
how do i see if a bulb is causing a short? just corrosion?I had a similar problem with my running lights. It would blow the fuse every time I powered the head lights or parking lights. I checked everything and I found a LIGHT PLUB was shorted. This blew the fuse. I spent two weeks looking for shorts, rubbed raw wiring, or anything else that would blow a fuse. Check every bulb for shorts!
oh that makes alot more sense, also i have no clue what the blue wire i found was it wasn't a turn signal wireYour hazards use the same wires and the same bulb filaments as the turnsignals. So theoretically the hazard fuse would have blown if there is a problem with the wiring going out to the lights and the bulbs.
If you had cut the correct blue wire, your turnsignals should have stopped working. When you press the brake they would have both lit up in the rear, and then moving the turn lever left or right would have made one of the rear lights go dark with the blue wire cut. And the front turns would have done nothing.
If you did cut the correct blue wire and it still blew the fuse, I would investigate the reverse wiring some more.
I have heard of this more than once…..The light bulb died and caused a shirt between the + and - of the light. This caused the fuse to blow. This is the first time I have seen this and I am an old guy.
Yes it is, I’m going full nuclear and just removing the dashThat is correct. That is what the diagram shows. Once it goes through the flasher, it then turns to a blue wire. The flasher is mounted to the fuse box correct?
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