Blew up my truck.... Time for a Cummins I think

RustyBolts

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Well thanks for the welcome. I'm slowly learning to bite my tongue when i see a cummins in anything but a dodge.
 

averagef250

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Taking pictures isn't my thing, but here's some I have on the computer. There's a 4BT into a friends 94 F250, My '70 before tearing it apart to frame off and install the 4.5/ZF and the last two are of the 4BT/M5R2 71 I recently sold.
 

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RustyBolts

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Wow, coming in swinging. Welcome aboard! I hear your passion, but, doing a Ford/Cummins is keeping it in the family. Ford puts Cummins B series in their MDs all the time, and sometimes they get Allison transmissions, which originally were GM owned at one time. Then there's that Detroit Diesel Series 40 which is actually a Navistar DT series engine. I could go on and on, but won't.

You really are going to have a problem with GenLightning then; he put an IH 7.3 IDI into a Chevy. Nice swap, too.

Then there's that one guy in New Zealand who has a 6.5 GM in an F250 ambulance...........

Thanks for the welcome. As I said in my last post, I'm slowly learning to bite my tongue when it comes to brand loyalty. I realize that when you start talking diesel, brand loyalty lines get fuzzy. Oh well.
 

ameristar1

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Taking pictures isn't my thing, but here's some I have on the computer. There's a 4BT into a friends 94 F250, My '70 before tearing it apart to frame off and install the 4.5/ZF and the last two are of the 4BT/M5R2 71 I recently sold.

MM,MM,MM Gooooood.-Drool-Drool
 

dukedrummer89

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averagef250

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any pics of that throttle cable setup in that 94?

The 4BT that went into the '94 was from a Ford E350 Grumman van. It bolted right in, no mods whatsoever sans fitting an IC and grounding the fuel pump relay to get the fuel pumps to run whenever the key is on. The throttle cable came off the EFI 300 that was in it and clipped right onto the bracket on the IP.

Your P7100 is totally different from a VE. If you have the dodge throttle trapeze garbage on your IP my advice is throw it away because it makes for a stiff pedal and when it wears out it will break when you least want it to and costs far more than it's worth to fix.

To make a cable throttle fit a P7100 pump I remove the shutoff solenoid bracket and weld a couple inch piece of 1/4X3/4" steel flatbar off the rear with a brace directly over the throttle linkage. You will need to build a small dog leg shaped throttle arm to bolt to the existing forged steel arm that's on there that will hang off to the rear and allow the throttle arm to operate in an up-down fashion instead of a fore-aft fashion.

In the bracket off the shutoff solenoid bracket drill and tap a hole directly over your new dogleg bracket for 1/4" NPT and buy a 1/4" brass fitting that has a 1/4" compression fitting on the other end. Most all pickup throttle cables are 1/4" OD. Using a die grinder cut the end off your old throttle cable, pull the cable out of the inside of it and cut the outside sheathe to length to fit in the compression fitting with nice gradual bends. Put the inner cable back in.

To attach the cable you can buy a number of contraptions made for bicycles, bikes and racing applications or you can just make your own. I like to take a small 1/4" steel clevis with female threads in the non-clevis end, drill a hole into the threads pointing out the end of the clevis at 45 degrees about 1/2" from the end, then take a bolt the right thread and length to fit the threads in the clevis with room for a jamb nut and drill a 3/32" hole through it's center for the cable to fit through. This sounds complex, but it's really simple. You stick the cable through the bolt, through the end of the clevis and out the side of the clevis through the hole you drilled, adjust it to the length you need and tighten the bolt down locking it in place with a jamb nut.


Doing the throttle this way works well, looks really sharp and makes for a much nicer pedal feel than the dodge trapeze junk.
 

averagef250

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One more suggestion-

Get rid of that dodge alternator and run a Ford 3G. Your 95 should have a 3G. The 3G is a killer alt, much better than the dodge thing, it's very easy to work on, it's one wire and they're very cheap and easy to fix.

I run the large case old style mounting 130 3G on the dodge upper waterneck. These 3G's are usually found on 93-98 E150's, 250's and 350 vans with a 300 six. to run one on the dodge cummins brackets with the exact same length belt I pull the top waterneck off and mill off about 1.25" from the forward side of the alt mounting boss already there. The small tab on the 3G case will bolt there with a slightly shorter 8X1.25 bolt and for the other end I bend a 5" piece of flatbar to go from the top of the lower dodge waterneck to the other mounting ear on the 3G case.

You can run the 3G in the dodge brackets by cutting a bit off the 3G housing to make it fit, but you'll have to run a different length belt.
 

RustyBolts

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Hey dukedrummer89, are you running a manual, or electric shutoff on that P pump?
 

dukedrummer89

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The 4BT that went into the '94 was from a Ford E350 Grumman van. It bolted right in, no mods whatsoever sans fitting an IC and grounding the fuel pump relay to get the fuel pumps to run whenever the key is on. The throttle cable came off the EFI 300 that was in it and clipped right onto the bracket on the IP.

Your P7100 is totally different from a VE. If you have the dodge throttle trapeze garbage on your IP my advice is throw it away because it makes for a stiff pedal and when it wears out it will break when you least want it to and costs far more than it's worth to fix.

To make a cable throttle fit a P7100 pump I remove the shutoff solenoid bracket and weld a couple inch piece of 1/4X3/4" steel flatbar off the rear with a brace directly over the throttle linkage. You will need to build a small dog leg shaped throttle arm to bolt to the existing forged steel arm that's on there that will hang off to the rear and allow the throttle arm to operate in an up-down fashion instead of a fore-aft fashion.

In the bracket off the shutoff solenoid bracket drill and tap a hole directly over your new dogleg bracket for 1/4" NPT and buy a 1/4" brass fitting that has a 1/4" compression fitting on the other end. Most all pickup throttle cables are 1/4" OD. Using a die grinder cut the end off your old throttle cable, pull the cable out of the inside of it and cut the outside sheathe to length to fit in the compression fitting with nice gradual bends. Put the inner cable back in.

To attach the cable you can buy a number of contraptions made for bicycles, bikes and racing applications or you can just make your own. I like to take a small 1/4" steel clevis with female threads in the non-clevis end, drill a hole into the threads pointing out the end of the clevis at 45 degrees about 1/2" from the end, then take a bolt the right thread and length to fit the threads in the clevis with room for a jamb nut and drill a 3/32" hole through it's center for the cable to fit through. This sounds complex, but it's really simple. You stick the cable through the bolt, through the end of the clevis and out the side of the clevis through the hole you drilled, adjust it to the length you need and tighten the bolt down locking it in place with a jamb nut.


Doing the throttle this way works well, looks really sharp and makes for a much nicer pedal feel than the dodge trapeze junk.

Sounds good, im gona try it:thumbsup:
 

RustyBolts

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electric... this aint a 70's backhoeLOL

The reason i asked is purely a safety issue. Just about everybody around me running a P Pump Cummins has a manual shutoff (or at least a manual override) so that they can still shut 'er down if the electric solenoid sticks or fails. Just because I don't like the idea of a Cummins in a ford, doesn't mean I like the engine in general. Just looking out for you, that's all. I think it's a definite MUST if you plan or racing it any at all. I can't see anything good coming out of the throttle sticking and the engine running away while making a pass down the dragstrip, do you?
 
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