Best Batteries..???

[funnyman06]

I think next time i have to pick up some batteries im gonna try and get a pair of odyssey batteries. They are made here in Warrensburg at the Enersys plant. So if the sears Plat are odyssey then thats what ill probably get.

Right now my truck has 2 850cca Interstates and they have been good to me even in this cold weather.

 

[Popeye2347]

I think next time i have to pick up some batteries im gonna try and get a pair of odyssey batteries. They are made here in Warrensburg at the Enersys plant. So if the sears Plat are odyssey then thats what ill probably get.

Right now my truck has 2 850cca Interstates and they have been good to me even in this cold weather.

So why change from a known good brand. If cost plays a part, then ask for the ECONO line from the Interstate distributor.

 

[funnyman06]

To try something new i guess? I like seeing what is out there, and also it would be supporting a local company(Enersys). Well maybe not local, but kind of.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

they had 2 of them wired in series i was told. so 4 batts total.

duh...i knew that, it was earllyyyyyy.

-Jon

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Well, I'm going to need a new set of batteries soon. The Wally World specials are about done (when they say three years, they mean it).

I want so good quality 850-1000CCA batteries. The Crew Cab has red top Optimas, and them seem to be doing fine. But I never drive that in the winter, plus, they are crazy expensive.

What say you OB?

Heath

By the time you are reading this, you have probably already resolved the situation; but, for what it's worth, I will stick my two cents in.



I like the Group-31S so well that I have them in every one of the seven trucks on the place; THREE of them in my black Ford.

The 30s and 31s easily fit under the hood of 1980 - 1991 trucks; I can't vouch for later ones.


Another modification that is well worth doing is to get rid of those troublesome lead terminal-ends and replace them with plain old copper "lug" ring-type terminals, then use stud-type batteries, just like the big trucks use.

This is one of the user-friendliest modifications I ever did and I quickly convert any battery-using vehicle I own to the lug terminals and threaded-stud connections.


For those that do not know:


The case measurements of Group-30 and Group-31 batteries are the same; in fact, the only difference is in post location.

The 31s have the posts located along the center; whereas, the 30s have the posts offset closer to one side; otherwise, they are identical.

Plain old Group-30 or -31 have plain old lead post terminals, requiring the troublesome lead clamp ends.

The addition of a letter "s", such as Group-31s, denotes that it is a threaded stud battery with common 3/8 x 16 threaded stud posts.

Also, often, a simple lead post adapter has been screwed onto the threaded studs of a Group-31s battery, thus making it a plain old Group-31.

^^^ Considering the above, if one is in immediate need of batteries, yet the cables have not yet been converted to lug-type terminals, one can buy the threaded stud batteries and add the lead post adapters onto the studs.

Later, when time and money has allowed the conversion to the copper lug terminals on the cables, the post adapters can simply be removed, exposing the threaded studs.


Group-31s is the absolute best no-nonsense choice for a battery; as RSDL? already stated, they can be found in the middle of the night at any truck-stop, any construction equipment dealership or garage, any agricultural concern, anywhere batteries are sold.



As far as what brand to buy, we have at one time or another sold them all, including DEKAs and Interstates, among many many other brands; you will have problems with any of them and no one brand seems to really be better than any other, except the "Neverstarts"---they are pure junk.

Regardless of whose label was on the batteries, the "adjustment" pallet always had plenty of dead soldiers stacked on it waiting when the route truck came by.

No brand is immune from duds.


For the last several years, I have only bought "blems" (factory seconds) for about $38 apiece; no name, no label, 30-day warranty.

I get as good service and performance out of the $38 batteries as I did with any of the $100+ ones that had the sticker still on them.


I hope this information is of some use.

 

[CDX825]

Who sells the adapter post for the group 31s?

 

[BigRigTech]

Most heavy truck dealers sell them over the counter, I got mine when I worked at the local Freightliner dealer.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Who sells the adapter post for the group 31s?

They are available from any place that sells the big batteries.

All they are is an inside-threaded lead post that screws straight down onto the threaded stud.

Like I already said, not in all circumstances, but in many, the ones that have the lead post are actually threaded stud batteries that just have the adaptors screwed onto them; be sure and ascertain this, though, before you get out your money.

 

[BioFarmer93]

I have to agree with you on the group 31's. I have two Autocraft group 31P 1110 CCA Farm & Truck batts from Advance/Discount and have a 750W inverter that I can run a Sawcat with no sweat. Good idea about the rubber flaps, but I like the idea about grinding that tray lip off better. Think I'm gonna do that one evening soon. Oh- the positive terminals are towards the center of the truck where the hood is higher, so no welding. Ask me how I know...

 

[65sixbanger]

I have Continental Group 31, They are out of a school bus

 

[6.9poweredscout]

By the time you are reading this, you have probably already resolved the situation; but, for what it's worth, I will stick my two cents in.



I like the Group-31S so well that I have them in every one of the seven trucks on the place; THREE of them in my black Ford.

The 30s and 31s easily fit under the hood of 1980 - 1991 trucks; I can't vouch for later ones.


Another modification that is well worth doing is to get rid of those troublesome lead terminal-ends and replace them with plain old copper "lug" ring-type terminals, then use stud-type batteries, just like the big trucks use.

This is one of the user-friendliest modifications I ever did and I quickly convert any battery-using vehicle I own to the lug terminals and threaded-stud connections.


For those that do not know:


The case measurements of Group-30 and Group-31 batteries are the same; in fact, the only difference is in post location.

The 31s have the posts located along the center; whereas, the 30s have the posts offset closer to one side; otherwise, they are identical.

Plain old Group-30 or -31 have plain old lead post terminals, requiring the troublesome lead clamp ends.

The addition of a letter "s", such as Group-31s, denotes that it is a threaded stud battery with common 3/8 x 16 threaded stud posts.

Also, often, a simple lead post adapter has been screwed onto the threaded studs of a Group-31s battery, thus making it a plain old Group-31.

^^^ Considering the above, if one is in immediate need of batteries, yet the cables have not yet been converted to lug-type terminals, one can buy the threaded stud batteries and add the lead post adapters onto the studs.

Later, when time and money has allowed the conversion to the copper lug terminals on the cables, the post adapters can simply be removed, exposing the threaded studs.


Group-31s is the absolute best no-nonsense choice for a battery; as RSDL? already stated, they can be found in the middle of the night at any truck-stop, any construction equipment dealership or garage, any agricultural concern, anywhere batteries are sold.



As far as what brand to buy, we have at one time or another sold them all, including DEKAs and Interstates, among many many other brands; you will have problems with any of them and no one brand seems to really be better than any other, except the "Neverstarts"---they are pure junk.

Regardless of whose label was on the batteries, the "adjustment" pallet always had plenty of dead soldiers stacked on it waiting when the route truck came by.

No brand is immune from duds.


For the last several years, I have only bought "blems" (factory seconds) for about $38 apiece; no name, no label, 30-day warranty.

I get as good service and performance out of the $38 batteries as I did with any of the $100+ ones that had the sticker still on them.


I hope this information is of some use.

gonna call the local battery shop for a pair of blem 31s high cca batts tomorrow.

thanks!
-Jon

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

>>> HOT POST PROTECTORS <<<

Here is a neat little trick that I have been doing for years :

Take a piece of rubber, either from an inner-tube or a hi-top rubber boot.

Cut this into about a 6 X 6 square with rounded corners and a two inch wide "handle" on one side about six inches long.

When you get this cut out, it will sort of resemble the shape of a ping-pong paddle, except square.

Place the large square portion centered over the HOT terminal and wrap the "handle" around the cable, firmly zip-tying it to the cable.

If you really want to get fancy, secure it to the cable under a layer of heat-shrink.

This rubber flap will prevent any accidental contact of the HOT post/terminal.

It is easily folded over, out of the way, whenever battery service is necessary.

Done neatly, this will look like a purpose-built store-bought protector.

I cut them from the upper portion of rubber over-boots that have a very glossy finish, as they look much flashier/nicer than those cut from an old dull inner-tube.

 

[Agnem]

I know the lead post batteries are getting dinged a bit in this thread, in favor of the stud type. However, I would point out that there is no way that these stud/ring arrangments could be electrically superior to the lead clamp type when it comes to amp carrying capacity. Now, that is not to say that perhaps the stud/ring arrangement is not sufficient for our purposes - it is. I have it on the Moosestang myself. However, from a pure electrical standpoint, there is far less contact area between the cable and the battery with a stud/ring then there is with a lead clamp. This means that under the most demanding situation, the stud/ring is going to get hot, and may not be able to carry the full amperage available when compared to the lead clamp. Keep this in mind when building or configuring cables and batteries. You will want a large contact surface whenever possible.

 

[Diezel]

well i just always use the wallyworld batteries..Ive had dozens of different batteries.Optima,duralast,die hard etc. Ive seen them all fail.. Best thing for any battery life is to keep the battery acid level right..I never add water to my batteries. i do keep a gallon of battey acid around to keep them topped off and i have made batteries last a long time.I just trashed my last 2 duralast batteries @ 13yrs old.....But if Im not mistaken, everlast is made by johnson controls. Ive put the everlast in all my trucks, cars, and even both by john deer tractors have them.The one is a 63 3010 dsl and we only have 1 battery on it and in 5 yrs has never failed. I seem to have had good luck with these batteries and they are even in my 97.. I hate walmart but for the price and the fact that wallyworlds are everywhere, it makes for easy replacement if they fail. Cant beat $69 for a 3 yr replacement battery???

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I know the lead post batteries are getting dinged a bit in this thread, in favor of the stud type. However, I would point out that there is no way that these stud/ring arrangments could be electrically superior to the lead clamp type when it comes to amp carrying capacity. Now, that is not to say that perhaps the stud/ring arrangement is not sufficient for our purposes - it is. I have it on the Moosestang myself. However, from a pure electrical standpoint, there is far less contact area between the cable and the battery with a stud/ring then there is with a lead clamp. This means that under the most demanding situation, the stud/ring is going to get hot, and may not be able to carry the full amperage available when compared to the lead clamp. Keep this in mind when building or configuring cables and batteries. You will want a large contact surface whenever possible.

Not to argue , but, when all is nice new and shiny, I might almost agree with the lead-clamps being ?maybe? the best conductor; but, 99% of no-start situations are usually due to a film of oxidation between the post and clamp.

Plus, lead posts are actually tapered; whereas, not many cable-ends are likewise tapered.

Tapered to fit or not, after a few days of vibration and various heatings, the lead-clamp will lose it's grip and "climb" up the tapered post, thus making for a loose connection.


Also, I have never seen a big truck that had anything other than the copper-lug ring-type terminals, so I am sure they are up to any demands we might ever put upon them.


When all is nice clean and shiny, the lead-clamp probably does have the superior conductivity, provided that the terminal-end to cable connection is in likewise good condition; but, give it about three weeks and any advantages of conductivity are probably lost to oxidation.