Big Bart

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I wanted to post this since it is a weekly question “who/where do I go for injectors and injector pumps?” I believe this has been posted by vendor but not a list.

Unlike a oil filter, ignition switch, or fan belt. Buying injectors and pumps at the auto parts stores or worse yet online have left many, many, many a member with issues. I, like many got bit by the lure of cheap injectors online. They are new, how can I go wrong? Learn from our mistakes, use a reputable vendor.

So those who have been active on this site have learned these folks below are your best bet for quality Injectors and IP’s that last and these vendors stand behind their products. Best put by active and senior member IDIBronco-

“There's four places that are widely known to us here to buy get quality parts from. Wes at Classic Diesel Design, Russ at russrepair.com, Mel from Conestoga Diesel, and Justin at R&D IDI Performance. I haven't bought from Justin, but that's only because the other three are members on here and I try to support the members first. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from him though. They won't be the cheapest, but they are the places that sell quality fuel injection parts. Most of us have found out the hard way that it's cheaper to buy from one of them the first time than to buy cheap parts and then buy from them later. It only took me once to learn that lesson.”

Other lessons -
1) If you replace injectors it is advised you do the pump too.
2) Never adjust your IP when the truck is running.
3) There are marks on the pump nose by the timing cover, align when replacing your pump to get in the ball park.
4) Buy a IP timing system, you really cannot time these by ear, just buy trial and error, even then you are close not likely on. $200 is a fair amount of money, but when your truck runs and starts, that is priceless. Many have bought from this seller -
Note - some say the probe is not Ford specific and had to drill the probe hole a little. Some call DTI and buy their timing light making the kit even better.(Not needed but extra functional.)
5) You can install a pump 180* off and the truck will run, just poorly. So be diligent and you will be fine.
6) Run an additive in your diesel for pump and injector lubrication. Also for cold winter gelling. Not needed for bio diesel or blends. But gelling becomes a concern for bio too so run additive in the winter For gelling.
7) Buy a return line kit from one of the above vendors too, very common failure issue on the IDI platform. You have to take it all off to get the injectors out so replace with new. Many had better luck with viton o-rings lasting longer.
8) There are several models of injectors depending on year and if factory turbo. Folks above can help you determine.
9) Having a pop tester handy is a good way to test for bad/problematic injectors. $70-100.
10) Read up on the site, the IP adjustment bolts are a little challenging. Read how folks bought tools to use or to grind down or bend with a torch to make access easy. (Vs doing it to their wrench or socket set.)
11) Timing is set with engine warm to a spec which is 8.5* btdc at 2000 rpm based on injector #1 front passenger side. Many said they preferred 9.5*. Both work without issue. This setting is for 6.9 or 7.3’s. (Note lummy method is set different.)
12) Be gentle with the injector lines and ends. Make them snug tight not Incredible Hulk tight. Over tightening them will damage them. You can always tighten more later if leaking.
13) After putting in the pump and injectors leave the nuts on the injectors slightly loose. Hook up a battery charger if you have one. Crank fo 10 seconds rest for 30 seconds, crank for 10 seconds, rest for 30 seconds till you see diesel coming out The loose nuts/lines. Tighten them to snug tight and try to start the engine 3-4 times. Now you have bled the lines. No luck rinse and repeat. Diesel can shoot out the lines so have safety glasses on.
14) It is suggested you do injectors and the IP every 100,000 miles. But check the timing every 30,000. Timing is dictated by pump pressure and injector pop pressure. So as they age your timing will change.

Members will chime in below with other suggestions and stories. I hope we all helped you out!

Have questions before or issues during your repair?
1) Start a thread.
2) Give us all the details . More details = better advice.
3) Send pics, we can often see an issue related to you problem or one you did not know you have.
 

TNBrett

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To add a little to a couple of your points:

#4 this unit comes with a magnetic pickup that is 8mm, the corresponding hole in an IDI is 5/16”. You can either drill the hole out to 8mm or file the probe down to 5/16”. Neither takes very long to do. Also this unit will work with a standard inductive timing light as long as it’s adjustable, you just need DTI’s to be able to control it from the box.

#5. The only way to install the pump 180 deg out is if you remove the timing gear and housing. If you remove the pump, leaving the housing in place, it can only go back one way.
 

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