ATF used as engine flush?

NapaBavarian

Dually driver 6.9
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Posts
2,032
Reaction score
4
Location
Napa CA
I was thinking the other day (oops cookoo) and got to wondering, since ATF has high detergent properties has anyone ever used it as an engine flush? Drain the oil and the oil filter, then pour some ATF in and let it idle for a few minutes to really clean the crud out, maby do that a couple times, then let it drain out for an hour to get the residual out.
 

oldmisterbill

Grumpy Old Man
Joined
Nov 19, 2005
Posts
2,093
Reaction score
21
Location
Wagoner Oklahoma
In my humble opinion that is a bad idea. Unless you would like a major engine repair. I had a bad experience ,I switched to a synthetic oil in an engine with about 150,000 on it,Shortly after the switch it started using a lot of oil.I contacted the oil company ,thay said the syntetic oil was a very high detergent,and that it most probably had cleaned most of the carbon etc from behind the rings and probably would reseal after a "cleanout period". Picture all that crud loose in suspension. Well after a trip from OK to maine the engine started running real bad-very noisy smoking all the good stuff.It was torn down in Maine $4000+.One of the little oil spray nozzles that cool the underside of the pistons clogged "MELTDOWN" burned the piston up scorched a cyl wall all types of good stuff. My 2 bits - Mr Bill
 

typ4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,100
Reaction score
1,383
Location
Newberg,OR
In all my experience anyone who came to me after an engine flush had a bearing or seal problem shortly following. If you want to slowly clean it up I would recommend 6 ox of essentialube made by Hydrotex added to the oil to slowly break the carbon down. The stuff is amazing at helping sticky lifters.
As mrbill said a complete rapid flush isnt good for older engines. my 2 c
 

Mr_Roboto

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2005
Posts
1,721
Reaction score
6
Location
Elyria, near Cleveland Ohio
I agree, you don't want to "flush" the motor. What happens is the accumulated, hardened sludge breaks loose, goes into your oil pan and clogs up your oil pickup. What you want is something that will SLOWLY dissolve the sludge.

Read this site for an explanation: http://www.auto-rx.com/ I'm not recommending that particular product, as I have not used it. However I would use this before an unknown like ATF or the "5 minute" flushes.

I bought a E250 van with the 300 I6, the motor had no oil pressure. Immediately before the engine lost oil pressure, the owner decided to use 15W40 (high detergent diesel oil) in it. Upon removing the oil pan, I found the oil pickup was COMPLETELY blocked with sludge. The oil had dissolved the sludge in the top end, and it had re-deposited and hardened on the pickup.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2005
Posts
4,636
Reaction score
38
We had a nut that used to work for us that mixed his engine oil 50/50 with auto-trans fluid and ran it all the time; he said that his Grandpa was a mechanic and always did it and never had to rebuild one of his engines.

One thing I can vouch for, he worked for us for years and drove the same truck the whole time.
 

TLBREWER

Windy B Ranch
Joined
Jun 10, 2005
Posts
1,640
Reaction score
0
Location
Moriarty, New Mexico
Mr_Roboto said:
I agree, you don't want to "flush" the motor. What happens is the accumulated, hardened sludge breaks loose, goes into your oil pan and clogs up your oil pickup. What you want is something that will SLOWLY dissolve the sludge.

Read this site for an explanation: http://www.auto-rx.com/ I'm not recommending that particular product, as I have not used it. However I would use this before an unknown like ATF or the "5 minute" flushes.

I bought a E250 van with the 300 I6, the motor had no oil pressure. Immediately before the engine lost oil pressure, the owner decided to use 15W40 (high detergent diesel oil) in it. Upon removing the oil pan, I found the oil pickup was COMPLETELY blocked with sludge. The oil had dissolved the sludge in the top end, and it had re-deposited and hardened on the pickup.

I've always run 15W40 diesel oil in my engines. I considered doing a "flush" on the engine in my wife's truck before doing the head removal/valve job. I'm glad I didn't. After pulling the valve covers and seeing all the "goop" in the heads, it would have surely caused havoc if it had rinsed down into the pan. You could barely distinguish the shape of the rockers. Couldn't even inspect the springs for breaks because of the sludge. :puke: I'm now strongly considereing installing bypass filters in all my trucks in the near future.

Tom
 

Mr_Roboto

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2005
Posts
1,721
Reaction score
6
Location
Elyria, near Cleveland Ohio
MIDNIGHT RIDER said:
We had a nut that used to work for us that mixed his engine oil 50/50 with auto-trans fluid and ran it all the time; he said that his Grandpa was a mechanic and always did it and never had to rebuild one of his engines.

One thing I can vouch for, he worked for us for years and drove the same truck the whole time.

Well you can use anything, as long as you use it from day one. It's when you already have a buildup and try to "flush" it out that you run into problems. I have to admit I used the "5 minute" flushes many times in my life. I got lucky that it never broke off any big chunks.

When (if) business picks up and I have money to spend, I'll get a few bottles of that Auto-RX and give it a shot in my ambulance.
 

oldmisterbill

Grumpy Old Man
Joined
Nov 19, 2005
Posts
2,093
Reaction score
21
Location
Wagoner Oklahoma
Kinda Off topic yet on topic. SLUDGE My understanding is that the waxes form on the inner engine parts-Particullary when the engine is used for short hauls.The engine never gets warm enough and gradualy deposits of wax varnish form as sludge deposits.In theory if wall the runs were long enough sludge wouldn't form.
To back this up I offer some things I experienced while I was running a snow plowing busines with 5 trucks. I installed a used 400 cheby small block in a 1/2 ton U in a hurry one winter before installing I resealed the engine 9front-rear main seals valve cover gaskets -oil pan gaskets etc.The engine was a mess you could hardly see the valve springs(time & budget didn't offer a complete tear down,during snow season in New england it is not wise to have a truck apart very long.) The engine ran real nice Oil consumption was nil, After 2 years of work ,started puffing oil(valve seals)(remembering that a snow plow sits all summer and during the winter starts, all my plows worked 20 to 48 hrs. in a stretch with orders not to shut them down except to check oil etc) When we took the valve covers off the engine was spotless,you could see the cast iron color of the heads.My belief is that hot oil constantly running through the engine flushed it very gradually with no ill effects.The engine is still in a plow truck(different one but still working after 15 years).
Just some food for thought-Drive to the ralley !! Help clean your engine .
Now you 've heard the rest of the story "Good day" Mr Bill
 

olivera149

Registered User
Joined
Jan 25, 2006
Posts
38
Reaction score
0
Location
wasilla, AK
i can see where you are coming from on that point. I have seen both sides, both on diesels: the medium sized fishing vessel(f/v) that i worked on for a number of years, that is powered by a n/a cat 3208 has seen well over 10,000 hours without any major problems, in fact no problems what so ever. Maintenance has been maintened to a 'T' and its pulled its share of bacon hauling a steady, at least 10,000lbs load of bristol bay salmon and on top of that a 28,000lbs f/v it has to push around. This engine was seasoned the first year i worked on the f/v and it ended with 14000 hours on the clock before overhaul. The ol' CAT did as inteded and prduced fantastic low end power and adapted to many low rpms, powering hydraulics and lugging the boat when needed. The rebuilder said the engine probably had another 5,000 hours on it, interestingly cause it has been worked.

I do take into fact that the cooling system on a boat are totally different in there cooling ablities.

My idi 10,000 miles after not hauling heavy (10,000 lbs 5th wheel from alaska to arizona) decided to have some top end work done. The idi has been on a strict regemine of rotella T since leaving the dealer lot brand new. I bought the truck at 74,000 miles and now notice the woof out of the tailpipe sound at a little under 85,000 miles. I mainly use my truck as a dd to get to and from work. Short trips under 5 miles with 5 minute warm up everyday and getting groceries.

Its kind of like comparing red apples and green apples :rotflmao , similarities, but have their differences.
 

TLBREWER

Windy B Ranch
Joined
Jun 10, 2005
Posts
1,640
Reaction score
0
Location
Moriarty, New Mexico
That "woof" out the tailpipe is exactly why I decided to do the top end on mine. I can't vouch for it's earlier life, but the last 40K we've owned it (of 175,000) hardly any trips under 30 miles. Hopefully this will give it a few more years of service.

Tom
 
Top