Low Silicate Green Coolant - Which One Are You Using?

[bulletpruf]

I need to flush the coolant/antifreeze on old Brownie, my '91 F350. Truck is new to me and I don't know how old the coolant is, but it's green ethylene glycol and the truck has been off the road and used around a farm for about 10 years. Figure the coolant is likely 10+ years old.

I plan to use low silicate green ethylene glycol antifreeze and add SCAs, but I'm curious about what low silicate antifreeze y'all are using.

There's the Napa stuff, which some say is low silicate, but neither the website nor the jug say anything about low silicate, at least not that I can see. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NAF1GAL

Then there's Zerex, which states that it is low silicate on the jug. https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/products/zerex-original-green-concentrate-antifreeze

Am I missing anything or are these the only two out there? Other threads mentioned Motorcraft antifreeze but not sure it's low silicate.

Thanks,

Scott

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[DrCharles]

Why not use Zerex G-05? (Is there a reason you want to stick with "green" coolant?)

 

[Nero]

I've used just basic Napa 50/50, but I recently switched to fleetguard red, because I can get an abundance of it for cheap.
Ran the Napa green for the first 10 years I had the truck no issues.

 

[bulletpruf]

Why not use Zerex G-05? (Is there a reason you want to stick with "green" coolant?)

Easier since the truck was running green ethylene glycol already.

 

[DrCharles]

Sure, I can see that, it's less work up front, but then you have to keep track of SCA and test strips. My truck had been neglected and I doubt the previous owner(s) ever heard of cavitation. It had green coolant and was low due to an external head gasket leak anyway.

You mentioned flushing the system. What I did was to buy about 20 gallons of distilled water. I drained the radiator, refilled to the top with water, drive until warm to mix fully, drain the radiator... repeat several times. Then put in the G-05 which does not require monitoring and is supposed to be good for five years.

 

[Kevin 007]

Prestone command HD diesel, purple. Ever since it first came out, on various different diesels including idi's, wet sleeved, parent bore, import, domestic, big, small, new, old etc.

 

[hacked89]

I use fleet charge

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I use fleet charge

I have switched all of my diesels over to this also.

James

 

[franklin2]

I need to flush the coolant/antifreeze on old Brownie, my '91 F350. Truck is new to me and I don't know how old the coolant is, but it's green ethylene glycol and the truck has been off the road and used around a farm for about 10 years. Figure the coolant is likely 10+ years old.

I plan to use low silicate green ethylene glycol antifreeze and add SCAs, but I'm curious about what low silicate antifreeze y'all are using.

There's the Napa stuff, which some say is low silicate, but neither the website nor the jug say anything about low silicate, at least not that I can see. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NAF1GAL

Then there's Zerex, which states that it is low silicate on the jug. https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/products/zerex-original-green-concentrate-antifreeze

Am I missing anything or are these the only two out there? Other threads mentioned Motorcraft antifreeze but not sure it's low silicate.

Thanks,

Scott

The silicate in the coolant is to protect any aluminum in the cooling system. Originally these trucks only had copper/brass radiators and heater cores. But if a aluminum radiator has been swapped in or a aluminum heater core, you should go a different direction. I am not sure you can even buy a replacement heater core that is not aluminum.

 

[KansasIDI]

The Dodges at my work require Zerex G-05, and everything else diesel powered (except for Detroits) uses

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For whatever reason, we put green antifreeze in Detroit powered stuff. Pretty sure that is NOT right.

Gas powered stuff gets green too.

At any rate, I put that antifreeze shown above in my 7.3, it is SCA precharged, so no need for test strips or filters, although extra filtration is never a bad idea.

 

[KansasIDI]

The Dodges at my work require Zerex G-05, and everything else diesel powered (except for Detroits) uses

You must be registered for see images attach

For whatever reason, we put green antifreeze in Detroit powered stuff. Pretty sure that is NOT right.

Gas powered stuff gets green too.

At any rate, I put that antifreeze shown above in my 7.3, it is SCA precharged, so no need for test strips or filters, although extra filtration is never a bad idea.

I actually plan to change the antifreeze in my Dodge this spring, and then I’ll probably actually put the HD antifreeze in it, even though it’s a gasser. And then add what are essentially hydraulic quick couplers in the heater lines on both my trucks, and a couple of long auxiliary hoses, so I can start my Dodge, let it warm up, connect the hot coolant hoses from it onto the cold ones on Duchess, my Ford, and turn on the Dodge’s heater. Faster, hotter, and probably a little cheaper than a block heater.

 

[bulletpruf]

The silicate in the coolant is to protect any aluminum in the cooling system. Originally these trucks only had copper/brass radiators and heater cores. But if a aluminum radiator has been swapped in or a aluminum heater core, you should go a different direction. I am not sure you can even buy a replacement heater core that is not aluminum.

Still has the original radiator. Not sure about heater core.

Thanks

 

[Cant Write]

Have you tested your coolant yet? Specifically the PH?

You said it was contaminant free right? No swirlies, not off color etc.

Test it and see what the PH is. If it’s good. Drain some of the radiator into a clean jug and check how much buildup is present.

If no build up is present and the PH is good, and no contamination, test the freeze point and the SCA’s and get them in spec.

If all tests out, send it, you do not waste more time thinking you need to flush it.

I run Napa ethylene glycol. I think it is all low silicate this day in age.

If your PH is off or questionable, or you have contamination or you have build up. Dump it all, flush it, back flush it, and upgrade like everyone is saying. Look at the condition of your hoses.

Do you plan to pull heavy or just drive this rig? My coolant has been in my van since 2003. I’m just trying to keep you from wasting money or going down a rabbit hole you may not need to.

 

[Brian VT]

I just grabbed 4 gallons of this. My green stuff looks fine but this was cheap enough that I may switch over.
Sale price ends at end of the month.

 

[franklin2]

I run the GO5 also. Very simple to drain the green out, take the lower radiator hose off and one of the heater hoses off, stick a garden hose up in the heater core hose, and run water through till it's clear. Then stick the hose in the top of the radiator and run it through till it's clear. Then put something else in it.