ARP Head Studs

IDI Diesel7.3

Ukrainian Power
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Posts
49
Reaction score
0
Location
Oakburn/MB
Just ordered a set up ARP head studs for my 93' f-250 project. The motor is a 89' 7.3 IDI, they are listing a part number for the "kit" now, new for this year.. (wasnt able to find before as far as i've heard, I could be wrong). I'll get you guys that part # if you want tomorrow, came out to about $715 CND. Just wondering if i can replace the studs by taking a stock bolt out and replacing with a arp stud one by one in the torque sequence of the bolts. The motor was rebuilt before i got it and had new head GASKETS put in and from what i recall they arent overly cheap to buy. I know they say you are supposed to clean up all the threads with a tap, but would i be able to get away without doing it, in order to not have to change the gaskets? The Motor is NOT in the truck, and I've put on a factory ATS kit with Garrett Turbo. Any input is appreciated.
 
Last edited:

Dave Barbieri

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Posts
332
Reaction score
1
Location
Overton, TX
Short answer - probably. If you remove the bolts one at a time, in the torque sequence and replace them with studs, you've got an 80% chance of pulling it off with no problems. Several years ago, on FTE, there was a member that did the same thing. For him, it worked out OK. You're dealing with only one fastener at a time and the gasket area affected is very small.

Here's the downside - You're dealing with torque/pressure changes to a gasket that isn't new. It's seen heat cycles and use and isn't fresh out of the box and flexible. Any time you mess with a head bolt, you run the risk of screwing up a sealing point. Remember, you've got the 'tighten down, then loosen' installation cycle for every head bolt. Are you planning on tightening and loosening each bolt four times as you install it? Or are you going to install each bolt, torque it and then go back and loosen and re-torque all bolts at the same time? Either way, your stressing a used gasket. You're also eliminating the important step of cleaning the block threads. This affects seating. grip and torque.

Bottom line - it's a matter of priorities. If you have a pressing need to get the truck on the road ASAP, then you've got a good shot at pulling it off. If the gasket shifts and fails (immediately or later), you're no worse off than you planned. However, if you have time, then "do it once and do it right", as one of our list members sez. Spend the extra time and $$$ to make a smart and lasting improvement to your truck. That way, when you drive it out of the garage, you'll know that the job is done, things are good, and you won't be spending time and $$ doing it again at some point in the future.
 

OLDBULL8

Good Morning Ya'll.
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2009
Posts
9,923
Reaction score
338
Location
Delphos , Ohio
Your gonna run into problems with the head bolts near the firewall, they are too long to come out with engine in the truck.

With new headbolts on the rebuild, seems to me your wasting a lot of time and money installing ARP studs.
 
Last edited:

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
674
Location
West coast
Well clearance issues at the back locations is a big problem. Also besides this is not the norm to remove a bolt and install a stud. As for cleaning the threads in the block.. Not going to do you any harm or good doing that but... This advice is only if your installing studs. A bolt is long and its twists planty when torqueing. A stud does not twist near as much because of its design. So clean the threads if bolts are used but for no other reason when your removing a bolt and installing a stud. I did some reading on the ARP web site about their molly lube used on stud isntallations. It said you no longer need to tighten and loosen the studs 5 times for them to tak a set. The new and inproved molly works so well it not needed. So that is a good fix for a difficult torqueing and loosening process done 5 times. Now multify that by 34 studs and your arms are worn out... New head bolts are 153,000 psi and the arp studs are 200 or 2220,000 psi breaking strength.
 

88 Ford

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2008
Posts
1,784
Reaction score
6
Location
San Diego, CA
Your gonna run into problems with the head bolts near the firewall, they are too long to come out with engine in the truck.

With new headbolts on the rebuild, seems to me your wasting a lot of time and money installing ARP studs.

Why would it be a waste of time and money to install studs? Studs are good insurance to prevent head gasket failure and allow him to run more boost safely. Its a win-win in my opinion and well worth it.
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
674
Location
West coast
Why would it be a waste of time and money to install studs? Studs are good insurance to prevent head gasket failure and allow him to run more boost safely. Its a win-win in my opinion and well worth it.

I would venture a guess its an opinnion that studs are a waste of time after installing new bolts...:dunno
 

88 Ford

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2008
Posts
1,784
Reaction score
6
Location
San Diego, CA
I understand new bolts are better than used ones that have been through many heat cycles but there is no comparison with studs in my opinion. I think studs are worth it no matter what performance level a person is after...
 

typ4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,117
Reaction score
1,399
Location
Newberg,OR
Just ordered a set up ARP head studs for my 93' f-250 project. The motor is a 89' 7.3 IDI, they are listing a part number for the "kit" now, new for this year.. (wasnt able to find before as far as i've heard, I could be wrong). I'll get you guys that part # if you want tomorrow, came out to about $715 CND. Just wondering if i can replace the studs by taking a stock bolt out and replacing with a arp stud one by one in the torque sequence of the bolts. The motor was rebuilt before i got it and had new head studs put in and from what i recall they arent overly cheap to buy. I know they say you are supposed to clean up all the threads with a tap, but would i be able to get away without doing it, in order to not have to change the gaskets? Any input is appreciated.
wow that kit is almost double what the bulk parts I came up with are, pretty proud of them arent they.

and the part number is 250-4204 summit racing 545.10

guess I wont have to worry about selling any more of those. that is cheaper than my supposed dealer price from ARP. Marketing jerks.
 
Last edited:

OLDBULL8

Good Morning Ya'll.
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2009
Posts
9,923
Reaction score
338
Location
Delphos , Ohio
What he IDI Diesel7.3 said:
The motor is a 89' 7.3 IDI,
The motor was rebuilt before i got it and had new head studs put in and from what i recall they arent overly cheap to buy

No mention of a turbo. That is what I based my opinion on. "Why change them"
 

typ4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,117
Reaction score
1,399
Location
Newberg,OR
I ran 13 lbs boost for a long time on new stock bolts with no ill effects, about 6k miles, I wouldnt change them if the engine is fairly fresh.
 

88 Ford

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2008
Posts
1,784
Reaction score
6
Location
San Diego, CA
What is your price for the bulk studs Russ? You can pm the price. I'm not looking to buy right this second I just need to know how much to save...
 

typ4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,117
Reaction score
1,399
Location
Newberg,OR
What is your price for the bulk studs Russ? You can pm the price. I'm not looking to buy right this second I just need to know how much to save...
Ill see what current is. Its pretty close to the summit kit price
 

IDI Diesel7.3

Ukrainian Power
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Posts
49
Reaction score
0
Location
Oakburn/MB
I really messed that up when I posted... I meant the motor had new head GASKETS during rebuild, it had a new crank put in and i think most of the pistons replaced. The price on the gaskets aren't as bad as i thought, so we've decided we'll go ahead with pulling the heads and replacing gaskets, maybe replacing them with a better quality high performance set, any suggestions on that?. The motor isnt in the truck.
 
Top