Ahhhh fudge...need some help...blue smoke after IP & injector R&R

[ghunt]

I did my uhaul injector & IP replacement today, got everything buttoned back up and worked on it for a bit to bleed the air out of the system.

I got the truck fired up except I'm seeing 3 problems now:

#1- It runs kinda rough and sounds like it's barely idling when not on fast idle
#2- It's blowing a lot of blue smoke especially at regular idle
#3- I've got a pretty steady drip coming from one of the lines at the IP on the driver's side of the truck. I can't tell whether it's leaking where the line is attached or where the fitting for the line goes into the head, but the nut for the line is definitely tight.

I don't really want to drive it like this...what do I do?

edit: One other thing I noticed is that it looks like at normal idle it's idling a little bit lower than it was before...maybe 50-100 rpm lower, can't really tell.

 

[snaponprofile]

Hmmm, where are your timing marks?

Mine leaked from one line and I drove it around for a couple days, I thought I had them stupid tight, but it wasn't 'tightest'. So I loosened the nut, reseated the flare, tightened it up and it hasn't leaked since.

 

[ghunt]

The mark on the pump isn't quite lined up with the mark on the cover...but, I think it is in about the same position as where the old pump was. It's about 1/8" to the left of the mark on the cover. Should I move it back over to line it up with the mark on the cover?

And...what's the easiest way to do that? Those lower lines are all but impossible to reach with the pump in the truck.

Also I did try unthreading that line and redoing it and it still leaks the same...

 

[snaponprofile]

You sound too far advanced, The old tired IP was delivering fuel slower so you had to advance the pump to get the right timing. Your new IP is popping the injectors sooner so you have to rotate the pump the other way to get proper timing(correct me if I'm wrong anyone). So yeah those nuts are a pain, but I'd retard it slightly and see how she runs. Grinding a 9/16 wrench down so it is thinner helps so you can slip it in between the IP housing and nut.

Try taking the line off the injector before reseating the IP, it could be throwing it off.

 

[ghunt]

Which direction do I have to go to retard it...toward the driver's side?

Anyway it's not the nuts holding the IP to the housing that I have problems with, I got those figured out (with a cut & rewelded wrench)...but don't you have to loosen the lines to rotate the pump?

Hoping to get some more input on the leak too...I unthreaded the nut, and did actually pop the line out of the fitting on the IP...then put it all back together, but no difference in the leak, like I said. Tried to see if the fitting on the IP itself was loose but it wouldn't really move anyway...tough to get a wrench in on that too.

 

[snaponprofile]

Yes rotate the pump towards the drivers side to retard. You don't have to loosen the lines no.

As to the line leaking, are there any nics in the flare?

 

[jonathan]

hey ghunt do you like fudge? lol

 

[icanfixall]

Both ends of the hard lines are 5/8 hex. The timing marks mean nothing because the new to you pump is timed internally differant. Thats just the nature of these beasts. So don't think all you need to do is remove a pump and install another to the same locations. It wont be right. I'm thinking your retarded on your timing and the leaker is changing how the engine runs. A leaker will not build enough pressure to fire that cylinder. If you have another line or pump fitting just replace it. I have plenty of new and used lines. I seel cheap too. Tell me what cylinder is leaking and I will pm a price. From the radiator counting back its drivers side head, 2,4,6,8 and the passenger side head is 1,3,5,7... BTW all the intake runners have the cylinder number cast into them near the heads.

 

[ghunt]

I know the timing marks don't mean much with a new pump, I'd just like to get it to where it runs mostly OK...I have a ferret adapter, just wanted to get it running decent and then time it.

The line wasn't leaking on the old pump so I'm wondering if it could be the fitting on the pump...ugh. I can't really have the truck down for the amount of time it'd take to get a new line as it's really my only means of transportation right now (except my bike, and it's been raining incessantly here).

Just frustrating...Had it all wrapped up and figured I was good to go, and this pops up...

 

[Brianedwardss]

The idle part is easy to turn up, it's just a flathead screw on the passenger side of the ip. Right hand turn increases idle speed. As far as the leak, there's a good chance that the flare/nipple on that particular fuel line has a groove in it. If you're able to unscrew the line from the IP, unscrew it at the injector, then loosen the clamps on the ip lines and take that line out. Inspect the nipple on it, and I bet it's got a grove where the old pumps fitting pressed against it for 20 years. I had that happen just last month to me, this same situation. Just take some medium grit sand paper to start, and work your way finer. Mine took two tries to get it to seal.

 

[ghunt]

Ok, some good news! It turns out the problem WAS the fitting on the IP itself. Took it out, and the very top of the part where the flare sits looked a little boogered up. I pulled one of the fittings off my old IP and put it in, put everything back together, and no more leaks (Thank God ).

Now, the screw you say adjusts idle...is that the one that actually controls the position of the throttle arm? When I put the new IP in the arm was about 1/4" away from the cold idle actuator so I adjusted it in to be against the the actuator. But apparently I need to adjust it back out because it's idling at about 500 RPM.

So, related to that I have another question. I started the truck up and kicked on the cold idle advance. It ran great, very smooth and when I revved it up everything seemed to be very smooth. However when it kicked down off the cold idle it was idling rough (presumably because I have the idle too low? Not sure), and when I gave it some throttle it was kind of rough even up through the RPM's. What would be the reason for that?

I'm glad that I've at least got things looking OK for now and have something of a baseline to work off of. I'll try to check the timing tomorrow.

 

[ghunt]

Something I forgot to ask about last night and definitely need to because it concerns me...

After I got the truck started up last night and it had ran for a minute or two it started this high pitched squeaking sound. It's almost like a belt slipping kind of sound, except that it sounds like it's coming from the IP.

I don't really like that and I sure hope it's not a sign that my IP is gonna go out on me...I noticed that it has seemed to have gotten a bit quieter after I let the truck run for a little longer.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Now, the screw you say adjusts idle...is that the one that actually controls the position of the throttle arm? When I put the new IP in the arm was about 1/4" away from the cold idle actuator so I adjusted it in to be against the the actuator. But apparently I need to adjust it back out because it's idling at about 500 RPM

A bit confusing. But, hot engine idle RPM is set at 650 RPM, Cold idle RPM is set at 950-1000 RPM.

Cold setting RPM's, Key ON, push the throttle pedal to the floor once (this allows the Hi idle solenoid (C156) plunger to extend), start engine, adjust the Hi idle solenoid (1/4" wrench) for 950-1000 RPM, when the engine reaches 120* the Hi idle solenoid (C156 cold idle solenoid) will de-energize.

Hot idle setting RPM, Adjust the idle screw on the IP to set the RPM at 650 RPM.

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[snaponprofile]

Something I forgot to ask about last night and definitely need to because it concerns me...

After I got the truck started up last night and it had ran for a minute or two it started this high pitched squeaking sound. It's almost like a belt slipping kind of sound, except that it sounds like it's coming from the IP.

I don't really like that and I sure hope it's not a sign that my IP is gonna go out on me...I noticed that it has seemed to have gotten a bit quieter after I let the truck run for a little longer.

Mine got quieter too after some time. It was a heck of alot loader after the new IP.

 

[ghunt]

adjust the Hi idle solenoid (1/4" wrench) for 950-1000 RPM

Question as I'm not 100% clear on adjusting the solenoid itself. Can you tun the plunger in and out with a wrench? I didn't even know that.

Also, I just went out and started the truck and it's still belching lots of blue smoke even on high idle, ugh. Guess I better check the timing.

BTW- when timing, do I aim the light at the harmonic dampener (if that's what has the timing mark on it at least). Are there even any timing marks on the thing?