YJMike92
Full Access Member
Sounds like a job well done. Keeps us informed on how she does.
Brakes: adjust the rears a lot tighter. You can feel it in the star wheel. Go right, then back off a few. Or just swap hydroboost. (You'll still need to adjust the rears)
Steering: look at the tie rods. What box did you go with?
If the power steering was over filled, those things will always burp the excess fluid.
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Keep up the good work! I don't know about other folks experience but the difference between a two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive of this vintage is that the turning radius on the four-wheel drive is like a super tanker...
Gotta love those D50 front ends, right?the turning radius on the four-wheel drive is like a super tanker...
One of my favorite sayings is "remember that these engines have 8 internal oil leaks (piston cooling jets)." If these won't cause low oil pressure at idle, than neither will a small external oil leak. By oil pressure gauge I assume that you mean the factory one. These aren't much better than an idiot light. It could be something as simple as pulling the wire off and putting it back on. Maybe you need another sending unit or even the gauge itself could be bad. In short, no, the small oil leak probably isn't causing the gauge to flutter at an idle. I'd recommend a good quality aftermarket gauge to see what your oil pressure (and other engine vitals) is really doing.Is it the Leak?
I don't think that will work.Anyone ever sealed a leak by just putting sealant over the affected area rather than a full remove and reseal. I think I could do it by cleaning the area real good and removing all oil and while the engine is off and all the oil is in the sump just seal it up.
I don't think that will work.
As far as the fan clutch, I'm not sure I understand what's going on. Is there any play in the fan blade up, down or sideways?