Fan clutch is fine don’t worry about that. If the oil pan is leaking, there’s not much you can do about it with it in the truck
7.3 IDI Turbo Knock -> Engine Pull and Rebuild
- Thread starter MICHAEL MICHAUD
- Start date
MICHAEL MICHAUD
Full Access Member
Cant thank you guys enough for the help. It is much appreciated. Ill see if I can pinpoint the leak hopefully it can be fixed as easily as everything else. See if the oil pressure sensor thingy can be tightened or twisted or jiggled and mess around with it a little. If i have to end up getting a guage oil pressure needs to be a minimum of 7 psi at idle?
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MICHAEL MICHAUD
Full Access Member
Okay so I took the truck to work this morning and I had a suspision but the neddle only starts fluctuating after the oil has warmed up. I am using Rotella T synthetic 15W 40. Just an update. Im still going to tinker with it. Im willing to bet its okay because it doesnt just fall off. It really wants to be normal.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
You'll have 20+ psi at hot idle if you use an oil galley for the gauge port. Seems to be less for most members here if you take it from the stock sending port but these oil pumps are high volume, not high pressure, so 12psi at idle wouldn't be bad. That said you will also have over 40 psi under hot load.
MICHAEL MICHAUD
Full Access Member
Replaced the sending unit with a BWD from advanced, oil pressure gauge works great again. Now to track down this leak. I borrowed a black light from someone at work so ill see if i can track it down after timing tonight.
EDIT Okay so the oil we use in the airplanes glows under black light. I guess thats something special they add into the oil to find leaks that good old rotella does not haha. Im trying to drive the truck to get the oil a little dirty, its so clean I can hardly tell where it is and isnt.
EDIT Okay so the oil we use in the airplanes glows under black light. I guess thats something special they add into the oil to find leaks that good old rotella does not haha. Im trying to drive the truck to get the oil a little dirty, its so clean I can hardly tell where it is and isnt.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I believe that the minimum oil pressure is 10 PSI at idle at operating temperature. This is why the stock gauge jumps to the middle at an idle.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Haha yeah I'm sure you could use a UV dye for A/C systems in the oil, or maybe there is a specific product for oil... but the concept is great. I used it for a coolant leak a few months ago that was driving me bonkers.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
There is. Gonna need a lot though.....
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MICHAEL MICHAUD
Full Access Member
I tried timing the engine last night. I couldnt get a consistent RPM reading at 2000 rpms. My tacho doesnt work great either so I cant even use that for reference.
Im using a brand new 3300 tool with the injector line clamp close to the #1 injector in the low mode, the instuctions say to get as close to the pump as possible so Ill try moving the clamp around tonight.
The closest I got was around -4.5 that means im about 3/16 off so i need to advance 3/16 rotation toward the passenger side to get +8.5 correct?
Im using a brand new 3300 tool with the injector line clamp close to the #1 injector in the low mode, the instuctions say to get as close to the pump as possible so Ill try moving the clamp around tonight.
The closest I got was around -4.5 that means im about 3/16 off so i need to advance 3/16 rotation toward the passenger side to get +8.5 correct?
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You have to clean off any on the lines to get a good reading for the pickup. Same with the ground, typically that’s what caused faulty readings
MICHAEL MICHAUD
Full Access Member
Thanks laser.
Doing brakes today. My rear right parking brake was locked in place so I have to replace the cable drum and pads... never made any noise or drag only symptom was the truck was extra long to come to a stop.
Going to do the front brakes. Time the engine and ill check the tach sensor distance
Tach jumping around in the truck can sometimes be cured by cleaning the probe. It’s magnetic and accumulates stuff over time. I had a bear of a time first time with my timing meter figuring out the mag probe position. Mine was jumping around. Just wasn’t picking up the crank mark solidly and it doesn’t work well without a strong crank signal. Go figure.
Edit: also check the wires going into the tach sensor, they have a tendency to break right at the sensor.
Edit: also check the wires going into the tach sensor, they have a tendency to break right at the sensor.
Kevo1288
Full Access Member
Mine was done by previous owner but it seeps a little, figured this was the case. Oh well ill deal with it for the time being.
MICHAEL MICHAUD
Full Access Member
I think my oil pan is leaking from 2 bolt holes but not the seal. I got some uv dye for the oil. After I do the timing I am going to take it for a spin and hit it with a black light see exactly where its from. If its the bolts Ill rtv the heads and call it a day. I think it might be coming from the curved part of the fron of the oil pan because i didnt use enough rtv which makes me sad ill have to pull the balancer if thats the issue. Ill clean it let it dry and pack as much as I can under the lip. Should have been more generous when i had the motor on the deck.
