7.3 IDI Turbo Knock -> Engine Pull and Rebuild

Thewespaul

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That normal. Replace that throw out bearing while you have it there. Pilot bearing would be good to replace as well.
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

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That normal. Replace that throw out bearing while you have it there. Pilot bearing would be good to replace as well.
Thanks Wes. New clutch and all bee bearings going in. I gotta PM you this month for that trans cover. Things got crazy with the mail and the hurricane so im going to wait for things to settle down.
 
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MICHAEL MICHAUD

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Alright. Not sure whats happening here. This power steering hard line coupling bottoms out before the flare makes contact. So the hard line moves and leaks. The flare is not damaged. What am I missing?

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laserjock

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There’s a Teflon oring that goes on that. Probably missing. I have a part store substitute PN somewhere in my build thread.
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

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I am going to replace the teflon seal but the ridgid line still shifts as if its not seated when the coupling tightened so i think its leaking around the cone. Its like theres a piece missing from inside the female coupling
 

laserjock

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Is your ***** valve missing? Think that’s what it’s called??
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

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Im not sure what that is haha. This is really the strangest thing to be held up on. Im working on fabbing the downpipe while I wait for someone to tell me how im just being stupid.
 

genscripter

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Alright. Not sure whats happening here. This power steering hard line coupling bottoms out before the flare makes contact. So the hard line moves and leaks. The flare is not damaged. What am I missing?

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In your photo, are you mixing-and-matching head bolts and head studs?
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

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In your photo, are you mixing-and-matching head bolts and head studs?


Yes! I had this strange tap in my block that made the stud seat too high under the valve cover. I was able to shave off a little piece of the corner of the rocker arm plate to get a stud to fit where the tap was odd under the valve cover. I had to use two washers because it sat so high.

I had an experimental stud that I ended up trashing aind I ordered a new one. I installed the head bolt that is getting replaced in an easy to acess location so i dont have to pull the valve cover again.

Weirdest thing is that it only affected the studs because of the thicker shoulders. Head bolts went in and out no problems.

In addition to being easily accessible it is one of the last in the torque sequence.
 
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MICHAEL MICHAUD

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alright guys. Shes all serviced with oil and coolant. I replaced my terminal connections for the batteries because I was Having funky electrical issues. My "Wait to Start" glow plug light wont come on and my injection pump shut off solenoid will not trip normally. I jumped 12V to the solenoid to make sure it wasnt broken and it clicks with the 12V applied. The new electric pump I installed works perfectly when i jump 12V to the trip wire that normall goes to the injection pump relay. So I know I can prime and start the truck by jumping the solenoid and the pump to the battery and starting it but I just really dont want to do that tonight. So maybe I will in the am. I am starting to become exhausted with the project. My clutch is super weak and slow to come out so I got a new slave and (I didnt try bleeding it first but a new one was only 36 bucks its aluminum not plastic) and well see how that turns out.

So right now:

No glow plug wait to start light when the key is on or cranking or ever
Injection pump shutoff solenoid wire does not provide 12V when key is turned on or even when cranking.

There was a little grey plastic piece with a wire on my ignition that had fallen off. I put it back where it looked like it was supposed to go but it made no difference. Ill check the wires under the hood in the morning but Im pretty sure they are all exactly where they were before. I dont know anything about the ignition wires. Worst case I just wire a switch to the fuel pump and IP solenoid? Thats pretty ghetto though.

Ill recheck the glow plug controller and the little wait to start light. Maybe the controller needs a good grounding.
 
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MICHAEL MICHAUD

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Alright. When I jump 12V to the ignition switch terminal on the glow plug control module I am getting the wait to start light as normal.

Something is going on where ai am not getting any power from the ignition switch to the red and green wire in the harness. Must be a or a short or a fuse somewhere.

What the heck made it pop. Maybe when my battery terminals were garbage im thinking.

Edit* turns out there is a single fuse that controls all of the things that werent working. Who would have guessed that. FUSE K in the power distribution box. Now time to start it up!
 
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MICHAEL MICHAUD

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Replaced the fuse. Everything worked perfect.Bled the shroeder valve with the new electric pump jumped to the battery.

I bought 2 brand new interstate batteries 1000CA a piece to get ready for the winters up north. Those things primed the injection pump in like 5 seconds and had that motor spinning! My old batteries were alright but they could barely.spin the engine while priming.


She fired up after 4 lines were primed and ran like a dream after all the injector lines were tight. No oil leaks. Coolant leak scare but it must have been residual from replacing the upper rad hose after I noticed that was leaking on the tstat housing.

On my way to buy the trailer ill be usi ng to bring all my stuff home. Going to load my car in there and take the truck for its maiden voyage with the trailer to beat it up and break it in real good.

When I get home im going to change the oil. Replace the slave cylinder and bleed it. Throw the rest of the front end together. Take her for a spin and feel this rebuild!

Typ4 Cam
Comp 910 Valve Springs
Bb injectors
Typ4 injector pump
Electric fuel pump
3 inch downpipe. how could i forget...

I only.ever drove this truck for about a 15 minute test drive and a 5 hour drive pulling my car. So hopefully I can still notice a differemce and get all giddy.

Thank again for all the help guys. I still got some things to do and Ill post pictures of my down pipe mod and my egt gauge set up.
 
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