Take the glow plugs out first. Rain water has to go into the cylinders to drain past the rings into the pan.
Wes, Please, could expand on your comment a bit more. I mean, so, I'll finish draining the pan in the morning, then remove the filter and fill up the new filter with fresh 15w40 Rotella and install it. Put the oil pan drain plug back in and fill motor with fresh oil. Then onto the glow plugs. Once I remove them I plan on spraying a liberal amount of PB Blaster penetrant into the glow plug holes so I can fog the cylinders and hopefully free up rings and pistons, then reinstall new glow plugs and reinstall repaired GP harness. What else do you suggest?Take the glow plugs out first. Rain water has to go into the cylinders to drain past the rings into the pan.
Aha! Now, that makes more sense. I was befuddled I understand what Wes meant. Thanks for jumping in. So, with glow plugs out, spray PB lightly to coat cylinder walls, then what? Loosen alternator and remove the belt? Or, leave the belt on and find a socket that fits the crank bolt a d use a breaker bar to turn the engine over?In the van engine xompartment with the stock fan end clutch, I have zero room? Any suggestions on how to turn over the engine manually as suggested without taking the radiator out (ill have to remove the radiator at some point anyway but was trying to tackle the re-start first, then the coolant flush, then, new hoses, and radiator install. I wish I had the money to take it too an honest shop since there is so much I have to do, but, I dont so, Im going to have to get this done 1 step at a time. I just hope after all this, it runs and is usable after all the labor and parts Im throwing at this project. Lord knows...If you don't mind, I'll jump in too Don't spray too liberally. Hydrolock or runaway can be a real problem with too much oil in the cylinder.
Also I would strongly recommend turning the engine over with a breaker bar, not the starter, for at least two revolutions. Much easier with the GP's out
Old oil is better than waiting on a dry engine to fill a filter.
No real sign of moiture or rust in intake and no sign of rust inside air filter housing and rubber gasket is intact on threaded air filter thumbsrew bolt, however, the top lid of the air filter housing is more rusty than others Ive seen.Yup I gotta agree with macrobb about the hood seal. Mine is crusty and if we get a stiff rain I get a puddle of water on my intake cover. How does your intake look? Any signs of water or rust intrusion? Fact that water is separated from oil, I agree with everyone else. Fill er up and light off.
BTW, send me a pm
Thanks for the socket size "snicklas". Glad to have it, in hand, before Im under the van.You should be able to get to the crank bolt from the bottom. Reach up between the radiator and crank pulley. It should be a 15/16 if I remember correctly.
Thanks DrCharles for reminding me about hydrolock and runaway. Pie plate will be nearby, JIC.If you don't mind, I'll jump in too Don't spray too liberally. Hydrolock or runaway can be a real problem with too much oil in the cylinder.
Also I would strongly recommend turning the engine over with a breaker bar, not the starter, for at least two revolutions. Much easier with the GP's out
Absolutely, will do. ThanksI always prefill the filter when doing an oil change on my truck. It runs to long w/o pressure if you don't.