1st post. Advice on safely re-starting a 94 7.3

[8gitmusik1]

Hey there fellow 7.3 idi non turbo users. I wanted to introduce myself and I want to apologize before hand for this long rant.. I go by my old CB radio handle DW, and Im 52, and am an old diesel fanatic having used and worked 'em for years, on my uncles farm and in the past having, a couple of pieces of farmland over the years.

During my 1/2 century, have had diesel trucks, ford and chevy and dodge and a variety of AG related vehicles and tractors, backhoes, dozers, etc. Been lurking a little while here re-learning troubleshooting and pre-prep for attempting to revive a 94 e350 7.3 n/a cargo van Ive had for many years.

South GA had hurricane Michael steamroll thru awhile back and my other running vehicle was permanently damaged, and unfortunatley for me, to save money, I did not have comprehensive only liability, my bad, anyway. So, as you may have already guessed, finances are tight...

Bottom line- need advice, guidance on how to proceed with putting "old faithful" back in service.

History on van - Approx. 4 yrs. ago, I had my local Ford Dealership perform a variety of oil leak repairs, head and valve gaskets, new injector lines, etc. then, drove it for 20k performing oil changes, and basic maintenence myself. Then I become medically incapacited and the radiator developed a leak and glow plugs were making it hard to start so I parked it. I did not want to make it an ether queen and I had planned, when health improved, to perform the radiator and glow plug replacement myself as funds, health and time allowed. As it turned out my medical issues were more severe than first anticipated.

Fast forward 4 yrs. later, got a aluminum radiator and DieselRX glow plugs and coolant and distilled water, 15w40 delo and fuel and oil filters. Now trying to decide how to proceed. Needs batteries as i added distilled water to them and 2 amp slow charged them but there wont hold a charge long it turns out and now starter sat so long it seems to be clicking.

My diesel skillset is a bit rusty but improving, (thanks to those here on this forum) and my health still isnt 100% but, like an old timer told me long ago when I was a young pup, "Failure dont count unless you stop tryin" so.... Im keepin on, keepin on, just a lot of reading here so I can get mobile again (live out of town in the country so transportation is critical, been without wheels 2 months now, no fun).

What I would really like is any and all advice on what i should should tackle first? After getting batteries and flushing heater core and upper and lower radiator hoses in prep for radiator install, and I pulled fuel filter and added a 50/50 mix of MMO and fresh diesel and checked the tank, it was full of 35 gallons of 4 year old diesel, do I drain the tank or can diesel last and is it still usable? Also, do I need to fog the cylinders with marvelM.O. or seafoam, or is this necessary. By the way, the motor was tight, and ran well and all leaks were repaired before it was parked.

THANKS IN ADVANCE - I'm open to any and advice or constructive critism, please, ya'all?

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

You must be registered for see images

 

[chris142]

My peterbilt sat 20 years without running. Put batteries in it and pumped up the tires and drove it home. Just start the thing. Don't add any combustible oils to the cylinders as you don't want it to run away (Over rev)immediately after starting it.

 

[8gitmusik1]

Yep. oilburners. Im an over-explainer. But I am looking for knowledgable help on this old 94 van and your the keepers of the flame of diesel knowledge so I figure more info is probably better than less otherwise you wouldnt know what Im dealing with, right?

P.S. - Current mileage on my van is 320k. Its a Ford obviously, lol, year of mfr. is Jan. Of 1994 and has a 7.3 IDI N/A with a older 100k rebuilt e4OD transmission and 3.54 butt gear on a Dana 60 rear end.

Before I got it the van was owned and maintained by AT&T in their fleet before I got it at 250k.

Its always ran well, for a non turbo and transmission always worked fine unless it went thru a water puddle and then it would shift rough till it dried up outdoors.

Was told before it got parked for its 4 year long nap that the issue with the tranny was a Throttle shift position sensor, if I remember correctly. Btw, are these TPS sensors difficult to R and R?

Truth be told, yep, Id like a better newer, vehicle with lower mileage, but, if wishes were fishes, and won the lotto one day, lol .

Anyway, finances as they are, Im stuck with my van for now, hoping I can get another 50k-150k out of it with proper maintanence and...

the Wise and Hard won knowledge Im finding within OILBURNERS forum members. A big thanks to you all, for posting your mechanical issues, fixes, knowledge and perspectives.

BTW, Anyone have a pdf engine manual for this year?

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[Thewespaul]

You should be fine just starting it with the fresh fluids, I’d keep a pie plate handy in case something sticks in the pump and it tries to run away you can shut air flow off to kill it. I have all the manuals for these trucks, once my website is up they will all be publicly available

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The best glow plugs are the Motorcraft/Beru ZD9. Others can swell and be a real PITA to get out of the heads. Sometimes the only way is to remove the head.

 

[8gitmusik1]

The best glow plugs are the Motorcraft/Beru ZD9. Others can swell and be a real PITA to get out of the heads. Sometimes the only way is to remove the head.

Thanks for the heads up on glow plug swelling. I based my decision to go with the DieselRX on the videos I reviewed on thetube regarding the quick energizing features, the hotter, more evenly distributed heat concentrated at the g.plugs tip compared to the Berus and others, and the unique tip and the dual element feature of the D-Rx plugs. I havent pulled the old glow plugs yet. Hope the havent swollen as you stated, we'll soon see and ill post results here. Thanks for your input.

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[8gitmusik1]

You should be fine just starting it with the fresh fluids, I’d keep a pie plate handy in case something sticks in the pump and it tries to run away you can shut air flow off to kill it. I have all the manuals for these trucks, once my website is up they will all be publicly available

Ive read many of your posts. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'll take your advice on the pie plate.

What do you think about the full tank of 4 yr. Old diesel. I had a new locking cap on the fuel neck. No rust down the filler neck and the sample of the old fuel I removed smelled good, looked fresh and no sign of water.



Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[Thewespaul]

Ive read many of your posts. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'll take your advice on the pie plate.

What do you think about the full tank of 4 yr. Old diesel. I had a new locking cap on the fuel neck. No rust down the filler neck and the sample of the old fuel I removed smelled good, looked fresh and no sign of water.



Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

I’m flattered, I’m just glad I could be of help. The fuel should be fine, I would change the filter after you go through your first tank of fuel, shouldn’t be too much debris/contamination since the tank is full.

 

[Macrobb]

Thanks for the heads up on glow plug swelling. I based my decision to go with the DieselRX on the videos I reviewed on thetube regarding the quick energizing features, the hotter, more evenly distributed heat concentrated at the g.plugs tip compared to the Berus and others, and the unique tip and the dual element feature of the D-Rx plugs. I havent pulled the old glow plugs yet. Hope the havent swollen as you stated, we'll soon see and ill post results here. Thanks for your input.

Personal experience here - I haven't had good luck with them working correctly with a 7.3 style controller. The resistance isn't right, which makes the controller short-cycle.
If you rig up a manual push-button, they do OK.
Motorcraft/Beru are the best in that they have the correct resistance curve for the controller to work with, and definitely hold up better than anything else I've tried. And believe me, I've tried just about everything at one time or another.
(Autolites sometimes swell, and I almost never see a single one work for very long. Champions are OK, but usually just as expensive as the Motorcraft ones, and don't last as long).

 

[chris142]

I drove my Pete home on 20 yr old fuel then I ran that fuel out before refilling the tanks.

I don't recommend changing the fluids before you start it. Leave the oil and filter on. Old oil is better than waiting on a dry engine to fill a filter.

 

[8gitmusik1]

I drove my Pete home on 20 yr old fuel then I ran that fuel out before refilling the tanks.

I don't recommend changing the fluids before you start it. Leave the oil and filter on. Old oil is better than waiting on a dry engine to fill a filter.

Thanks for that advice Chris142...I hadnt thought of the motor oil and filter change in the way you described. Makes sense to have old oil than to starve a dry engine. Crank Bearings, cam, piston rings, etc..need oil or will shorten engine life considerably id imagine?

Btw, Chris, could you expand a little on your 20 year old resart experience? Im curious to hear more. Is your Pete still working or should I say is it an OTR tractor or does it work in some other capacity? Just wondering what all you have done to the motor and trans, rear end, brakes, bearings, etc. after it sitting unused for that long, 20 year nap it had?

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[8gitmusik1]

Personal experience here - I haven't had good luck with them working correctly with a 7.3 style controller. The resistance isn't right, which makes the controller short-cycle.
If you rig up a manual push-button, they do OK.
Motorcraft/Beru are the best in that they have the correct resistance curve for the controller to work with, and definitely hold up better than anything else I've tried. And believe me, I've tried just about everything at one time or another.
(Autolites sometimes swell, and I almost never see a single one work for very long. Champions are OK, but usually just as expensive as the Motorcraft ones, and don't last as long).

Thanks for the advice. Next glow plug change will be Motorcraft ZD-9's from now on after reading more into the pros and cons. I just took the advice of the guy at Accurate Diesel and the DieselRX videos.

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[chris142]

Thanks for that advice Chris142...I hadnt thought of the motor oil and filter change in the way you described. Makes sense to have old oil than to starve a dry engine. Crank Bearings, cam, piston rings, etc..need oil or will shorten engine life considerably id imagine?

Btw, Chris, could you expand a little on your 20 year old resart experience? Im curious to hear more. Is your Pete still working or should I say is it an OTR tractor or does it work in some other capacity? Just wondering what all you have done to the motor and trans, rear end, brakes, bearings, etc. after it sitting unused for that long, 20 year nap it had?

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

The Pete was just a toy. Due to California emissions it can't be used for work. I put historic plates on it and took it to car shows.

I had to replace all the wheel bearing grease seals. The transmissions just got a top off. As did the rear end. I did have to steam out the fuel tanks then pull their drain plugs after i drovebit home. They had a black goo in them. I had to replace every rubber hose. Coolant,air etc. Other than that I basically put batteries in it and drive it home. I will post a couple videos if I can find them. Oh of course once it was warmed up I changed the engine oil and filters.

I sold it to another old truck guy and he was using it occasionally to move tractors around. He found a loophole in the law.

 

[chris142]

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[chris142]

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media