1st post. Advice on safely re-starting a 94 7.3

[Thewespaul]

Take the glow plugs out first. Rain water has to go into the cylinders to drain past the rings into the pan.

 

[8gitmusik1]

Take the glow plugs out first. Rain water has to go into the cylinders to drain past the rings into the pan.

Wes, Please, could expand on your comment a bit more. I mean, so, I'll finish draining the pan in the morning, then remove the filter and fill up the new filter with fresh 15w40 Rotella and install it. Put the oil pan drain plug back in and fill motor with fresh oil. Then onto the glow plugs. Once I remove them I plan on spraying a liberal amount of PB Blaster penetrant into the glow plug holes so I can fog the cylinders and hopefully free up rings and pistons, then reinstall new glow plugs and reinstall repaired GP harness. What else do you suggest?

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[DrCharles]

If you don't mind, I'll jump in too Don't spray too liberally. Hydrolock or runaway can be a real problem with too much oil in the cylinder.

Also I would strongly recommend turning the engine over with a breaker bar, not the starter, for at least two revolutions. Much easier with the GP's out

 

[Thewespaul]

There’s likely still water in the cylinders, so take the glow plugs out to shoot it all out before you throw a rod

 

[8gitmusik1]

If you don't mind, I'll jump in too Don't spray too liberally. Hydrolock or runaway can be a real problem with too much oil in the cylinder.

Also I would strongly recommend turning the engine over with a breaker bar, not the starter, for at least two revolutions. Much easier with the GP's out

Aha! Now, that makes more sense. I was befuddled I understand what Wes meant. Thanks for jumping in. So, with glow plugs out, spray PB lightly to coat cylinder walls, then what? Loosen alternator and remove the belt? Or, leave the belt on and find a socket that fits the crank bolt a d use a breaker bar to turn the engine over?In the van engine xompartment with the stock fan end clutch, I have zero room? Any suggestions on how to turn over the engine manually as suggested without taking the radiator out (ill have to remove the radiator at some point anyway but was trying to tackle the re-start first, then the coolant flush, then, new hoses, and radiator install. I wish I had the money to take it too an honest shop since there is so much I have to do, but, I dont so, Im going to have to get this done 1 step at a time. I just hope after all this, it runs and is usable after all the labor and parts Im throwing at this project. Lord knows...

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[snicklas]

You should be able to get to the crank bolt from the bottom. Reach up between the radiator and crank pulley. It should be a 15/16 if I remember correctly.

 

[pafixitman]

Remove the glow plugs, use the breaker bar. If it will not turn easy, DO NOT force it. You run the chance of rolling a ring. Mix 50/50 Marvel Mystery Oil and AFT. Inject that in each GP hole and let sit. Repeat the process 24 hrs later. Once it turn a complete revolution it will spit out any remaining water and mix from the GP holes.

It is pretty wild how the water will come out crystal clear from the oil drain plug...Ask me how I know!

I found my issue from the top. I had ice in the intake.

 

[Thewespaul]

Using the block heater helps evaporate any water without starting the engine.

 

[Mulochico]

Old oil is better than waiting on a dry engine to fill a filter.

I always prefill the filter when doing an oil change on my truck. It runs to long w/o pressure if you don't.

 

[Exhumis]

Yup I gotta agree with macrobb about the hood seal. Mine is crusty and if we get a stiff rain I get a puddle of water on my intake cover. How does your intake look? Any signs of water or rust intrusion? Fact that water is separated from oil, I agree with everyone else. Fill er up and light off.
BTW, send me a pm

 

[8gitmusik1]

Yup I gotta agree with macrobb about the hood seal. Mine is crusty and if we get a stiff rain I get a puddle of water on my intake cover. How does your intake look? Any signs of water or rust intrusion? Fact that water is separated from oil, I agree with everyone else. Fill er up and light off.
BTW, send me a pm

No real sign of moiture or rust in intake and no sign of rust inside air filter housing and rubber gasket is intact on threaded air filter thumbsrew bolt, however, the top lid of the air filter housing is more rusty than others Ive seen.

Also, I realized I had forgotten that, a few months ago, after Hurrican Michael roared thu here, I had found, the long strip of rubber hood seal just above the air filter housing had come loose in the middle right over the top of where the air filter housing is located underneath and I had a aha moment, remembering now as we are discuusing it, I had pushed the rubber seal, back into place.

So, you guys are probably right and that may have been the cause of the water intrusion?

Now, still, whats puzzling is that I never found any water, pooling on top of the air filter housing?

And, the lip of the lid extends over the bottom portion of the filter housing that sits on top of the intake manifold port and the inside lid seal is in good condition, as well as the washer on the thumbscrew is intact.

I guess, regardless of how or why, the water made its way inside the block, either thru rainwater, or condensation of 3+ years of sitting, its likely a combination of the two issues above, caused by sitting unused.

Anyway, thanks for the continued advice from all of you who posted.

I'm still planning on getting the rest of the glow plugs out tomorrow and turning the engine over by hand to force any water up and out of the cylinders if there is any thru the glow plug holes, then cleaning it up and installing the new GP's with some anti-sieze.

God willing, I may have some help from a friend for a few hours tomorrow too, so we'll see how things progress.

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[8gitmusik1]

You should be able to get to the crank bolt from the bottom. Reach up between the radiator and crank pulley. It should be a 15/16 if I remember correctly.

Thanks for the socket size "snicklas". Glad to have it, in hand, before Im under the van.

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[8gitmusik1]

If you don't mind, I'll jump in too Don't spray too liberally. Hydrolock or runaway can be a real problem with too much oil in the cylinder.

Also I would strongly recommend turning the engine over with a breaker bar, not the starter, for at least two revolutions. Much easier with the GP's out

Thanks DrCharles for reminding me about hydrolock and runaway. Pie plate will be nearby, JIC.

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[8gitmusik1]

I always prefill the filter when doing an oil change on my truck. It runs to long w/o pressure if you don't.

Absolutely, will do. Thanks

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

 

[Macrobb]

You may want to check/replace the CDR tube - where it goes into the valley pan at the back of the motor. This(I forgot) is a likely source of water into motor, especially if the drain hole next to it is plugged up with crud.