1992 F250HD dually conversion questions.

[My1500DollarTruck]

All,

I have a 1992 f250HD , rear axle shows as a c5 ( 10.25 limited slip) 4.10. Was looking at a dually conversion and just need to get some clarification for the rear axle. I'm looking to increase the foot print for traction, not really worried about bed hauling weight. For what I've found in searches, looks like I need the following for the rear:

1) fenders
2) adaptors
3) dually rims

Any info from those who did a adapter dually conversion is very much appreciated . Not looking at changing out the rear axle. Also has anyone installed a Tru-Trac or some other type of locker ? Truck is going to be used to pull a 7x16 tandem 5200lb axles, with up to 10k in it. Need a little more traction for some of the steeper inclines and gravel/dirt roads .

Thanks
Stephen

 

[SebastIDIan]

You'd be better off finding a dually 10.25 with what you're gonna be paying for the arrowcraft's.

I've got a set of 2wd dually hubs if you're interested.

 

[laserjock]

Unless you are going to put really wide dual wheels on it, I think you’d be as well off to just go to a 285 or a 33- 12.50 maybe? I don’t usually think of dually and traction in the same sentence. Is the truck 4x?

 

[Thewespaul]

A locker and some wider tires will do more than drw. If you have done real offroad with duals you will know how much of a pita it is getting rocks and clay packed between the rear wheels wearing out your sidewalls

 

[My1500DollarTruck]

Unless you are going to put really wide dual wheels on it, I think you’d be as well off to just go to a 285 or a 33- 12.50 maybe? I don’t usually think of dually and traction in the same sentence. Is the truck 4x?

A locker and some wider tires will do more than drw. If you have done real offroad with duals you will know how much of a pita it is getting rocks and clay packed between the rear wheels wearing out your sidewalls

Thanks. The truck is a 4x2 . The most this truck will go off road is dirt/gravel/chirt road or a hard packed orchard (4x4'ing I have a 73 CJ5 304cid) . The issue is really additional traction for steeper inclines ( Ga Mnt) on dirt/gravel/chirt roads pulling the trailer. I'll look at a locker and wider/ bigger size tires. The truck drive train is currently all stock ( rims/tire sizes) and being built . The thought was a wider stance, off set tire paths with aggressive tire bit for more traction, with out going full 4x4 conversion.

laserjock - I see your sig shows batteries relocation . where did you relocate them to ? Bed ? I'm running a g3 130amp conversion, local starter/alternator shop can rebuild for a constant 200a. was looking at relocating the batteries and isolating several more for a separate aux circuit ( much like marine setup) x2 for starter, separate x2 for aux lights,inverter and such .. I was looking at removing the back seat and freeing up that area for battery relocation and additional storage.

Thanks, for the replies.

 

[laserjock]

My batteries are on the passenger frame rail. One under the front part of the bed, the other under the pass door. There are pictures in my build thread somewhere.

If you already have a limited slip, a rebuild of the clutch packs might make a big difference. I know mine could use it. It is a limited slip but she does the one wheel peel most of the time. I’ve tried setting it with the brakes etc. but it don’t seem to help much. A good set of fresh clutches might do you a world of good. It’s way down on my priority list. Worst mine sees is my yard. It’s a pavement princess.

 

[Thewespaul]

I wouldnt put the batteries in the cab with you, bit of a safety hazzard. On jerry Im putting them in a toolbox with individual breathers.

 

[BR3]

I think the weight of a typical dually really has hurt the popular opinion on them. Contact patch (aka total tire width contacting ground). Is 100% directly relative to traction, just like airing down/wider tires. As well as the potential to catch different ground (been in several scenarios where a solid piece of ground gave traction to only one tire of my rear duals and got me out) there are several traction related reasons to go dual. I could go on about how my dually has climbed cars in 2wd that Jeep's on 37s couldn't do, even with experienced drivers, but the point is that on a hard surface and variables accounted for, I don't think I could believe a single wheel holding better than duals.

Definitely much cheaper to go with an axle swap that new arrowcraft adapters. By a Wide margin if you buy their "kit". Actually if you look around, it's probably cheaper to buy an entire beater 4x4 truck than the kit haha


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[nelstomlinson]

Duals are a real nuisance in snow: they get stuck fast and easy. You get twice the contact area, but only half the weight per square inch, so you aren't going to get any better traction. The extra flotation might help sometimes, but that extra flotation is what gets you stuck in snow. The little bit of extra width is a plus for stability, but that's is the only plus I've found.

The truetrac will probably do more than the duals for traction. If you need the extra load capacity, also look into single 19.5" tires. You can get them in load range H, as I recall.

 

[BR3]

Snow is I think the only place in which the duals may not help, because of reduced poundage per square inch. However given the fact that your only adding two rear wheels, I would venture to say that halfing the pressure is not quite accurate. I may be wrong on this count, but if you consider the vehicle as a whole you've only added 50% more contact patch to vehicular total summing to 150% original, not 200% original. That means you've only gained 30% to the vehicular total and I imagine once you factor in the additional weight of the extra tires, you loose less than that. I'd really like to see if anyone has ever done a study on this matter.

The op did mention he frequented hard pack Orchard, and for my experience snow is very limited in regions that sustain Orchards, I may be wrong here again, but if he's only on solid ground, contact patch still wins over traction adder.

Plus used dually axles are cheaper than a new limited slip if you pull it, debatable if your rebuilding your existing l.s.

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[My1500DollarTruck]

Snow is I think the only place in which the duals may not help, because of reduced poundage per square inch. However given the fact that your only adding two rear wheels, I would venture to say that halfing the pressure is not quite accurate. I may be wrong on this count, but if you consider the vehicle as a whole you've only added 50% more contact patch to vehicular total summing to 150% original, not 200% original. That means you've only gained 30% to the vehicular total and I imagine once you factor in the additional weight of the extra tires, you loose less than that. I'd really like to see if anyone has ever done a study on this matter.

The op did mention he frequented hard pack Orchard, and for my experience snow is very limited in regions that sustain Orchards, I may be wrong here again, but if he's only on solid ground, contact patch still wins over traction adder.

Plus used dually axles are cheaper than a new limited slip if you pull it, debatable if your rebuilding your existing l.s.

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You are correct , very little snow in Georgia. If it snows , we stay in .. usually 2+ inches of ice under that snow.

 

[u2slow]

I really like the size and capacity of 285/75R16s. Perfect for the back of a 2wd IMO.

The Ford trac-lok (LSD) thing is useless with a load on. I much prefer a locker, but only with a manual trans.

 

[nelstomlinson]

The Ford trac-lok (LSD) thing is useless with a load on. I much prefer a locker, but only with a manual trans.

A friend put a Detroit locker on a 2WD pickup. He said it really worked. He also said that once it locked on ice, you were going to get pushed straight ahead until you got it to unlock. I haven't tried driving one myself, but it might not be optimal for snow country.

 

[franklin2]

I have seen dually trucks get stuck in wet grass. I agree on the wider single rear wheel system as being the best cost/performance solution. If you need any more traction, move the load forward and put more weight on the tongue.

 

[u2slow]

He also said that once it locked on ice, you were going to get pushed straight ahead until you got it to unlock.

Unlocks as soon as you take your foot out of it.... when you have a manual trans.