doctordiesel
Registered User
I ordered the kit direct for a ford main dealer in the US it has 4 small/narrower rings No 1C3Z-6K649-BA and 2 large rings 1C3Z-6C610-BA Which are green. dispatched from the factory 30/1/15
1987 7.3 oil cooler
- Thread starter doctordiesel
- Start date
Blind Driver2
Full Access Member
My local Ford dealer lists no kit. Only as individual part numbers.
I have two kits coming in tomorrow from O'Reillys. 3 Victor seals and 6 orings. I was told the kit is probably for both a IDI and PS. I'm going to compare all the gaskets and rings tomorrow morning.
I have two kits coming in tomorrow from O'Reillys. 3 Victor seals and 6 orings. I was told the kit is probably for both a IDI and PS. I'm going to compare all the gaskets and rings tomorrow morning.
doctordiesel
Registered User
Its a 7.3 checked engine no on the top block
doctordiesel
Registered User
It may not be a kit. but the drawing the main dealer sent distinctly showed 6 rings . I have fitted all 6 as I measured the land on the end of the cooler and the depth into the end caps and there was definitely enough room to fit both the narrow rings on each end .its resting in the press at the moment as its 1/16 inch to long to get the bolts to line up hopefully by the morning it will have surrendered and stop trying to pop back out . If this dont cure it I will be popping the motor out to fit a cummins 6 pot with a manual box to try and make it more economical as I'm not particularly pleased with the fuel consumption anyway .
Put it back together just like it came apart. Don't add any o-rings. It sounds like something is not right, once it presses together it stays. I think you have something wrong in there.
doctordiesel
Registered User
I dont quite agree just because it only had 2 in it when I took it apart whats to say the last donkey that worked on did it right . We get loads of vehicles in our workshop that somebody's mate down the pub has had a go at and assembled it wrong or backwards . I put 2 rings in the water side of the end caps and measured the gap and there was definitely room for them . and on inspection of were the original ring seated in the aluminium of the end cap were the water was it was very corroded. but further out were it was running in the oil the surface was nice and clean My theory is that one ring might end up seating on the crap bit and not seal . But in putting in two rings one would act as a spacer forcing the other to seat on the nice surface . Its a theory lets hope it F@#ING works
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Now thats news.. You never told us the headers were eroded and might be causing the leaks. Please stop on and replace the corroded headers or risk a leaker again. There are plenty of members here that have these headers and want to help. If you choose to reuse the problem headers do try this. Use a power wire brush on a drill motor to clean out the corroded areas. Then when you press in the bundle use some RTV on the corroded areas. Allow the RTV to set up before running the engine. As for the o rings you removed. It my feelings those were correct and the 6 o rings are wrong. But its your call. Wish I could be more help.
if it dont work,
i can send you a spare oil cooler.
international shipping can be costly,
but im pretty sure this part is pretty hard to find where your at.
i can send you a spare oil cooler.
international shipping can be costly,
but im pretty sure this part is pretty hard to find where your at.
ifrythings
Full Access Member
If your oil cooler has the flange on it then it's the later design, the earlier ones that use 2 small o-rings go INTO the header first then the bundle goes in. If you try to put all those o-rings in on the later design then your no different then the guy at the pub assembled it wrong or backwards
Do note that the old design o-rings on the water side are smaller and I can see why you think you could get both of them in there but the proper ones for the new design is a lot thicker and takes up most of the gap. Also the 6 o-ring collers were on the early 1983-1984 blocks.
This is a page right from the International 6.9L Diesel Engine Service Manual May 1988
You must be registered for see images attach
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
If your oil cooler has the flange on it then it's the later design, the earlier ones that use 2 small o-rings go INTO the header first then the bundle goes in. If you try to put all those o-rings in on the later design then your no different then the guy at the pub assembled it wrong or backwards
Do note that the old design o-rings on the water side are smaller and I can see why you think you could get both of them in there but the proper ones for the new design is a lot thicker and takes up most of the gap. Also the 6 o-ring collers were on the early 1983-1984 blocks.
This is a page right from the International 6.9L Diesel Engine Service Manual May 1988
You must be registered for see images attach
Thanks so much for posting this great factory pictorial of the old and new design. This should clear up the guy in the pub mechanic idea.
doctordiesel
Registered User
Thanks for the picture I think what's gone wrong is, somebody has put a new type bundle into old type headers, in the picture which I know is only picture with no dimensions it shows the area were the 2 rings seat to be deeper on the older header . My headers do look more like the older ones but the bundle definitely has a flange.
If your oil cooler has the flange on it then it's the later design, the earlier ones that use 2 small o-rings go INTO the header first then the bundle goes in. If you try to put all those o-rings in on the later design then your no different then the guy at the pub assembled it wrong or backwards
Do note that the old design o-rings on the water side are smaller and I can see why you think you could get both of them in there but the proper ones for the new design is a lot thicker and takes up most of the gap. Also the 6 o-ring collers were on the early 1983-1984 blocks.
This is a page right from the International 6.9L Diesel Engine Service Manual May 1988
You must be registered for see images attach
doctordiesel
Registered User
Thats a kind offer, Running American stuff in the UK can be a challenge . Luckily the fact that American vehicles are designed to run higher mileage and last longer is a help . Suspension , steering parts and normal stuff like water pumps are easy to get even next day . Lights are always a problem 70s 80s 90s but after 2000 a lot of pick ups were sold new here built to UK regs . So its easy to get bits . I do like my little USA collection . Obviously this one and Dodge Ram 1997 5.9 Magnum ,GMC G30 Ambulance 6.5 Diesel and Just to be a bit mad I put a 6.5 Chevy Diesel out a Hummer in my Range Rover .
doctordiesel
Registered User
It is assembled and the bolts in to the block line up OK . But with the information that I may have the wrong o rings or older headers on a new type bundle I am going to make some blanking plates to pressure test it . We have tested the bundle to 30 psi and that held up so going to pop it in the press to stop the headers coming off and test the whole unit now .
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
To keep the headers from blowing off during pressure checking just use a woodshop pipe clamp. They are cheap and easy to find in any hardware store. I use a Bessy wood clamp in my wood shop and doubles as my header clamp too. Of using what you described works too.
