Torinojts
Full Access Member
Yeah I was shocked to see the +.040 in the ambo engine. Also surprised to see my heads cracked. Especially when I didn’t use a drop of coolant, no white smoke, or pushing out of the radiator.
11 Year 75 Crew Cab 7.3 Build
Torinojts
Full Access Member
Hacked89 did you get a different block then or have it sleeved?
Torinojts
Full Access Member
I started installing my rings. Never paired that close attention, not sure how I missed it in fact.
This is the wrong kit #
The top ring was a square ring, not the keystone ring I needed for turbo pistons. Called the machine shop and they could not find any. Claimed Total Seal will need to make them. Quite peeved I called the tech line and explained how it took couple weeks to get these and now they are wrong. Bob at their tech line was great. He found me the rings I needed, paid for shipping and charged me cost, $10.89 per ring. I asked if I should send the other rings back and he informed me to let the machine shop worry about that. By the way I have not gotten the bill from them for the rings yet.
Now with the correct rings I can actually start the assembly.
I got all the pistons in and checked piston to deck on all 8. #7 measured at .033 and #2 piston measured at .039 above deck. All the rest where .028 - .029.
Number 2 piston.
So now do I have the bushings redone and ground lower, or shave the pistons? I ended up pulling #7 and #2. Swapped rods (the ones that came with this block).
Here is #2 after switching rods. Now it is only .022 above the deck and #7 is .021 above.
I now did not like the fact that #2 and 7 were .021-.022 above and all the rest are now at .028-.029. Soooo I pulled all the pistons and swapped out the rods. Now all cylinders are .020-.022. Now with that being said, I do not know the actual mileage on the wrist pin pushing and some do show a little wear. Might as well reclay the valves to pistons, as I am going to send the rods out to have new bushings install, or at least measured and checked with the new wrist pins. If I am going to do that might as well get the valves recessed so I can run the R&D cam.
I reclayed the valves and took measurements again. Intakes are .050 - .055. My exh. Valves are .015 - .025. Gives me a good idea what to set the depths at. Figured I would have the machine shop set them all close to max depth, .050 on intakes and .060 on exhaust. This should give me room and clearance. Plus if they can cut the wrist pin .005 lower that would help.
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This is the wrong kit #
You must be registered for see images attach
The top ring was a square ring, not the keystone ring I needed for turbo pistons. Called the machine shop and they could not find any. Claimed Total Seal will need to make them. Quite peeved I called the tech line and explained how it took couple weeks to get these and now they are wrong. Bob at their tech line was great. He found me the rings I needed, paid for shipping and charged me cost, $10.89 per ring. I asked if I should send the other rings back and he informed me to let the machine shop worry about that. By the way I have not gotten the bill from them for the rings yet.
Now with the correct rings I can actually start the assembly.
I got all the pistons in and checked piston to deck on all 8. #7 measured at .033 and #2 piston measured at .039 above deck. All the rest where .028 - .029.
You must be registered for see images attach
Number 2 piston.
So now do I have the bushings redone and ground lower, or shave the pistons? I ended up pulling #7 and #2. Swapped rods (the ones that came with this block).
You must be registered for see images attach
Here is #2 after switching rods. Now it is only .022 above the deck and #7 is .021 above.
I now did not like the fact that #2 and 7 were .021-.022 above and all the rest are now at .028-.029. Soooo I pulled all the pistons and swapped out the rods. Now all cylinders are .020-.022. Now with that being said, I do not know the actual mileage on the wrist pin pushing and some do show a little wear. Might as well reclay the valves to pistons, as I am going to send the rods out to have new bushings install, or at least measured and checked with the new wrist pins. If I am going to do that might as well get the valves recessed so I can run the R&D cam.
You must be registered for see images attach
I reclayed the valves and took measurements again. Intakes are .050 - .055. My exh. Valves are .015 - .025. Gives me a good idea what to set the depths at. Figured I would have the machine shop set them all close to max depth, .050 on intakes and .060 on exhaust. This should give me room and clearance. Plus if they can cut the wrist pin .005 lower that would help.
Last edited:
Torinojts
Full Access Member
Here are my valve recession readings on one of the heads.
Now to take piston and rods back out, and wait for the machine shop. If it is not one thing on these it always seems to be another.
While i wait I am going to look into doing the hydro boost. My wife is going to kill me.
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Now to take piston and rods back out, and wait for the machine shop. If it is not one thing on these it always seems to be another.
While i wait I am going to look into doing the hydro boost. My wife is going to kill me.
hacked89
Full Access Member
Short answer: yes sleeved and no, I'm going to send the rods through the block to IDI heaven. I did not expect. 040 pistons when I took this one apart.
I'm gonna push 36psi at peak boost through the motor. I'm gonna stay out of that range though until my second motor is done.
Longer answer: what you noticed is why there's alot of stipulations when swapping internals around and how it affects the tolerance geometry. Many people may not have the servíce books, be diligent, or know how to measure everything.
"most" of the time it's the NA rods that break first on these. I'm pretty much stuck on my ambo motor because they don't make 0.40 over turbo pistons. And Justin's PSD rods are for the turbo wrist pins of course.. But I heard he can machine them for NA wrist pins but that doesnt really make sense after the time and money.
So I'm gonna put together this motor and finish the truck.. Then build my second motor with PSD rods and Turbo pistons. When ambo blows ill just have the other one ready to flip flop.
Hoping the ambo can last a year being gentle haha.
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Torinojts
Full Access Member
I am going to order the hydro booster and lines while I wait for my final machining to be done. I know the new hydro booster will not come with the needed push rod and clip. I seen on another post that you can order a hydro boost rebuild kit that comes with the needed rod and clip. my question is there are 2 different kits, large bore and small bore listed on eBay. Does anyone know what the bore measurements would be in order to get the correct one?
I dont remember the measurements of the top of my head anymore but the ebay listing states 1995 and older will usually use the small bore and 1996 and newer will use the big bore
Edit I found the instructions for the bores
Edit I found the instructions for the bores
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Torinojts
Full Access Member
Thanks Philip1.
Here are a pic of the rod bushings that are going to getting replaced, they do show some pretty good wear.
I marked the readings of what the piston protrusion was on each rod, hoping the machine shop can cut the bushings all pretty close to the same. I know 100th is not a lot but why not try and get them all with in 1 or 2 of each other.
I also did the 6.9 coolant mod to it. Knocked the lower plugs out of the block and heads.
Has anyone made the hole bigger in the rubber headgasket insert on the 6.9 heads, or the size they are good enough?
Here are a pic of the rod bushings that are going to getting replaced, they do show some pretty good wear.
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I marked the readings of what the piston protrusion was on each rod, hoping the machine shop can cut the bushings all pretty close to the same. I know 100th is not a lot but why not try and get them all with in 1 or 2 of each other.
You must be registered for see images attach
I also did the 6.9 coolant mod to it. Knocked the lower plugs out of the block and heads.
You must be registered for see images attach
Has anyone made the hole bigger in the rubber headgasket insert on the 6.9 heads, or the size they are good enough?
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I left them how they are, but Wes cut his out larger with a die grinder. The next time I do this, I will enlarge mine. I figure that since I don't tow heavy with this truck and that any coolant flow is better than none, they will be ok as made. I'm certainly not worried enough to pull the engine and replace the head gaskets.
I did modify those ports, and man did it flow the coolant. I have about a mile an a half driveway from the shop and I could drive down that and 5 miles down the main road before the high idle would shut off on an 80* day with no fan or fan clutch behind the rad. Once it was heat soaked though and fully up to temp I think it may have hurt more than it helped, seemed to move the coolant too quick. I believe the small sized holes are to equalize coolant flow around the cylinders and insure proper heat rejection by slowing it down, but it’s hard to say. I’ve left them alone and been pleased with the cooling performance in other engines.
hacked89
Full Access Member
I agree better to not modify it but I don't think it's about speed. Even though the cap keeps the system at a static pressure, there is other pressure in the heads and block that is often greater than that. This prevents hot spots in the heads from locally flashing and when you open those ports up, yes it increases the speed, but it's decreasing the pressure.
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Torinojts
Full Access Member
I will leave the coolant insert hole size the way it is then.
Another.thing I just was pondering about. I have built numerous gas engines and have always had them balanced. I am pretty rough on my gassers I build. This being a slow rotating diesel would it be worth balancing the bottom end and rods??
Another.thing I just was pondering about. I have built numerous gas engines and have always had them balanced. I am pretty rough on my gassers I build. This being a slow rotating diesel would it be worth balancing the bottom end and rods??
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Some people like to do it. I think that I may have my next build balanced. Of course I plan to be running some Factory Turbo parts (hopefully) and will have to have it balanced.
Torinojts
Full Access Member
IDIBRONCO what factory IDI turbo parts will you be looking for? I do have a crank, balancer, flywheel, and rods I may part with if I have no grief with this build. Just something to keep in mind. Oh also a factory turbo system
jwsfarrier
Full Access Member
Really enjoying this thread. Thanks for all the great pics! I would be interested in the balancer and flywheel if you end up not needing them. Doing a similar build and have not been able to locate an OEM IDIT balancer or flywheel. Of course IDIBRONCO should have first choice if he needs those parts. This has given me a ton of info for when all the parts get back for the machine shop and I can get to putting it back together. Thanks again
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