11 Year 75 Crew Cab 7.3 Build
X1 vote for stock cam
Booyah45828
Full Access Member
I'd call justin. It's his cam, ask him what he wants you to do to get it to run.
Maybe in the mean time, you can install a stock cam and check the clearances on that.
Maybe in the mean time, you can install a stock cam and check the clearances on that.
hacked89
Full Access Member
Yea I missed the part where he said he installed a solid lifter for his PtoV measurements etc.
I agree to talk to Justin if he hasnt already.
Me personally, stick with stock cam. But since he already has Justin's cam I would see what he has to say.
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Torinojts
Full Access Member
I put the stock cam in the engine and checked the VtoP clearance with the dial indicator just like I did the R&D cam. On the valve that is set to .070 I had .055 clearance on the intake I had roughly the same. Has anyone checked their VtoP clearance, and do you know the reading it was? I know on a gasser you want to see .080 - .100 clearance, but the gassers are spinning a much higher RPM.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
When I did my recent overhaul, I did check my clearances while hoping to run my Typ4 cam. I was trying for worst case scenario and only remember the two worst ones were at .0045". This was after the "machinist" that I took my heads to removed too much material. I seem to recall that Russ said at least .030" clearance so that's what I was shooting for. Between the .015" decompressed pistons, the Fel-Pro head gaskets, and the non-solid (regular hydraulic) lifters, I felt confident that I had enough clearance. Of course, no Typ4 cam, but at that point, I was just happy to get it running again.
Torinojts
Full Access Member
Since the heads and block have been milled, and some of the valves recessed .070 I wanted to check the valve to rocker geometry.
With the head on and torqued (with a used gasket) I painted the top of the valve stems with a paint pen (water base), put on my rockers and used the adjustable push tube I made and took out all the lash. Turned the engine over several times and removed the rockers. I did this on all the valves.
As you can see the rocker tip is pushing on the center of the stems not to far on the intake or exh side of the heads like I thought they might.
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With the head on and torqued (with a used gasket) I painted the top of the valve stems with a paint pen (water base), put on my rockers and used the adjustable push tube I made and took out all the lash. Turned the engine over several times and removed the rockers. I did this on all the valves.
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As you can see the rocker tip is pushing on the center of the stems not to far on the intake or exh side of the heads like I thought they might.
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Torinojts
Full Access Member
Well I reached out to Justin at R&D about a month ago and waiting for a response on suggestions with the cam. In the meantime I was going to mount, wire, and plumb in the Espar Hydronic heater, well that did not get done either. Between summer coming to an end, work, and coaching JH football there is not much time for me right now to work on this.
After a month of no responses from Justin, sent three emails and 4 phone messages......silence, no response from Justin, so I said F it!!! Going with the stock cam. Well I got on one head tonight. I put in the ARP studs torqued them 50, 75, 100, 125, and then final torque of 150ftlbs. Several of them seemed to turn a little bit more but they did torque up on the final step....except the last one ***!! The very last stud turned up to 145ftlbs and then started getting a smaller yielding torque number after that. The torque wrench I am using is a digital Snap-On read out, that was just calibrate checked literally a week ago by Team Torque, so I know the wrench is good.
You can see where the stud stretched right at the bottom of the threads.
If it was not for bad luck I would not have any at all at this point with these 7.3 idi’s. I am having more issues with these engines than any other. I have built race engines, motorcycles, snowmobiles, over the road truck Cat and Detroit engines that ran another 1 million miles and never ran into issues I have with this one.
I am really beginning to wonder about the R&D stuff right now. These studs I bought from R&D about 8 years ago. In the first engine I only torqued them to 125 ftlbs so I know they did not get streatched then, did I get a knock off stud? I remember when I got them I thought it was strange that they were not in ARP packaging. Next the cam, it also purchased about eight years ago. Was this an earlier grind, where it may have been ground wrong, thats what I personally think is wrong is the grind on the cam.
Soooo now do I pull I stud at a time and check see if any others stretched? Or leave them cause they did torque up, even though some of them seemed to take a little extra turning to get to 150?
Sorry about the somewhat of a rant! In the meantime I am waiting again to find and order a couple extra studs just in case, or buy a complete set again.
After a month of no responses from Justin, sent three emails and 4 phone messages......silence, no response from Justin, so I said F it!!! Going with the stock cam. Well I got on one head tonight. I put in the ARP studs torqued them 50, 75, 100, 125, and then final torque of 150ftlbs. Several of them seemed to turn a little bit more but they did torque up on the final step....except the last one ***!! The very last stud turned up to 145ftlbs and then started getting a smaller yielding torque number after that. The torque wrench I am using is a digital Snap-On read out, that was just calibrate checked literally a week ago by Team Torque, so I know the wrench is good.
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You can see where the stud stretched right at the bottom of the threads.
You must be registered for see images attach
If it was not for bad luck I would not have any at all at this point with these 7.3 idi’s. I am having more issues with these engines than any other. I have built race engines, motorcycles, snowmobiles, over the road truck Cat and Detroit engines that ran another 1 million miles and never ran into issues I have with this one.
I am really beginning to wonder about the R&D stuff right now. These studs I bought from R&D about 8 years ago. In the first engine I only torqued them to 125 ftlbs so I know they did not get streatched then, did I get a knock off stud? I remember when I got them I thought it was strange that they were not in ARP packaging. Next the cam, it also purchased about eight years ago. Was this an earlier grind, where it may have been ground wrong, thats what I personally think is wrong is the grind on the cam.
Soooo now do I pull I stud at a time and check see if any others stretched? Or leave them cause they did torque up, even though some of them seemed to take a little extra turning to get to 150?
Sorry about the somewhat of a rant! In the meantime I am waiting again to find and order a couple extra studs just in case, or buy a complete set again.
Does it take a 5/8” or 9/16” socket? Does the top of your stud look like the first or second? (6 digits vs 7 digits)
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aggiediesel01
Full Access Member
According to a recent ARP bolt making video I watched "ARP" is stamped into every nut bolt and stud they've made. Should be easy enough to find on the end of your studs as Wes shows above or the lower flange edges of your nuts.
It's mentioned at 4:45 in this video.
It's mentioned at 4:45 in this video.
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Booyah45828
Full Access Member
I've never seen a stud of any considerable quality or strength hourglass like that. To me that hints at maybe a heat treat issue during manufacture.
The problem that I see is, I don't think the ARP spec for those studs is the 150 a lot of you guys are using, So I'm not sure if they'll cover it warranty or not.
Justin is supposedly as busy as ever, I see him comment on the facebook pages from time to time, maybe try and reach him there. But it's a good call on not using that cam, It doesn't matter what the instructions say, if the measurements don't add up to the correct clearance you'll have issues.
The problem that I see is, I don't think the ARP spec for those studs is the 150 a lot of you guys are using, So I'm not sure if they'll cover it warranty or not.
Justin is supposedly as busy as ever, I see him comment on the facebook pages from time to time, maybe try and reach him there. But it's a good call on not using that cam, It doesn't matter what the instructions say, if the measurements don't add up to the correct clearance you'll have issues.
hacked89
Full Access Member
Yea you're over torquing the fastener.
The ARP studs for the 7.3 are 1/2-13 200kpsi.
At 190/200kpsi fastener optimum preload is @125ftlbs
220kpsi is at @140ftlbs.
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The ARP studs for the 7.3 are 1/2-13 200kpsi.
At 190/200kpsi fastener optimum preload is @125ftlbs
220kpsi is at @140ftlbs.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Torinojts
Full Access Member
Well it has been a while but engine is together and in. Test drove it and i am not going to lie, can definitely tell the stock cam is in. The old girl does not have close to the butt seat torque and power it had with the R&D, little disappointed. On the upside it runs like a top.
I parked it outside of the shop so I could clean up. After it sat outside in 50* weather for about 3 hours I went to start it and bring it into the shop to tie up some stuff and put the hood on. The f#@king thing would not start. The glow plug really just clicked rapidly before engine crank. Know I have to figure out what the Heck is going on with the glow plug system. The relay is new as well as the harness.
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I parked it outside of the shop so I could clean up. After it sat outside in 50* weather for about 3 hours I went to start it and bring it into the shop to tie up some stuff and put the hood on. The f#@king thing would not start. The glow plug really just clicked rapidly before engine crank. Know I have to figure out what the Heck is going on with the glow plug system. The relay is new as well as the harness.
YJMike92
Full Access Member
Sounds like your just about there. Maybe adjusting the timing will give you a little more of the power your lacking.
Torinojts
Full Access Member
It is right at 9* now. I will do some playing around with the timing, but I don’t think it will get much better in power feel wise.
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