11 Year 75 Crew Cab 7.3 Build

[IDIBRONCO]

IDIBRONCO what factory IDI turbo parts will you be looking for? I do have a crank, balancer, flywheel, and rods I may part with if I have no grief with this build. Just something to keep in mind. Oh also a factory turbo system

Mostly the rods and possibly the crank as well. I'm kind of up in the air on that one. Wes says that he thinks the N/A crank is strong enough. Also possibly turbo parts like the pedestal. I'm planning to eventually run a drop in turbo from Wes so I'm not sure what else I'd need at that point.

 

[hacked89]

Mostly the rods and possibly the crank as well. I'm kind of up in the air on that one. Wes says that he thinks the N/A crank is strong enough. Also possibly turbo parts like the pedestal. I'm planning to eventually run a drop in turbo from Wes so I'm not sure what else I'd need at that point.

I agree with Wes. Strength wise no difference between N/A and Turbo cranks. Balance wise, yes. There is more weight on the rear of the crank of the Idit and the balance drilling between the two but it comes down to balancing the heavier internals of the turbo motor on why its different.

To turinos original question - do you have to balance after swapping turbo internals into an na. I would. You can get away with not balancing by swapping the balancer as well.

NA to na internals turbo to turbo internals you don't need to balance but you should be remeasuring the tolerances as you noticed from your rod attempt.

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[Thewespaul]

Balance in a hp engine I believe is critical, that being said I have run a na flywheel on a turbo engine and had catastrophic failures from balance, just broke the pistons from a nitrous backfire. The engine did have a noticeable vibration at idle that was gone when I replaced the idit with a na engine, but would have taken that vibration over a broken block any day!

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[Torinojts]

I am going turbo to turbo so should be good there, however I am going to balance the rods and pistons.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

however I am going to balance the rods and pistons.

It's best to have it all balanced. Rods, pistons, crank, flywheel/flexplate, and balancer. Everything that spins on the lower end. If you do this, you won't have to worry about the hard to find Factory Turbo balancer and flywheel/flexplate.

 

[Torinojts]

Well my hydro booster has not come in yet and machine work is not done yet as well. So I thought I would change out the rear tank fuel lines. The ones I put on were cheeched with some poor splices previously done. I was always going to redo them so I never hooked them up and forgot about them, so this was a good opportunity to get them corrected and hooked up. I was going to just get an end splice kit and install but then I came across an old rear line set. One of the steel lines had a week spot do to rust so replacing the whole line was out of the question. I took a heat gun and slowly heated the plastic line and the ends twisted right off.

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Easy just swap them to my steel line already in the truck. Well as my luck has it, the new fuel sender/pickup that was installed in the tank is wrong. The return port is smaller and faces to the right side to far to connect the return as well, must have been for a gas engine??, even though it stated diesel on the parts description. What a PITA, now to disconnect the supply line, pain in the a$$ clips and drop the fuel tank to replace the sender. The good thing along with the fuel line set the rear sender/pickup and fuel selector was still attached to them. The tank pick does not have an umbrella attached to it however so that will have to rounded up along with testing the sender if it works or not.

 

[Thewespaul]

Option dos, leave the sender since it works and install a sump with pushlock lines, I really like having access to the lines below the tank and having a drain plug, but the factory setup works well when it works too.

 

[Torinojts]

Well I am still waiting for the machine shop to finish my rods. Also my hydro boost has not come in yet, find out the one Napa order was on back order and they did not tell me so i canceled that order. I went to another auto store and ordered from there. In rage mean time i came across an Espar heater for $50 the guy had rebuilt and never installed it. Thinking about putting on my pickup for winter months, just to find a place to mount it.

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[Torinojts]

Well I got my rods back. I got them balanced today and pistons installed. I measured the protrusion and they are all .025 - .028 above deck, a little higher than I wanted.

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Installed an old headgasket so I could check valve to piston clearance for the 500th time.

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As you can see I have maybe .005 worth of clearance on the exhaust valve. I measured the deepest exhaust valve and I had one that was recessed to .070.

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This valve is at .070, when using a dial indicator you have to subtract, as it reads backwards. Something I missed on an earlier measurement.

 

[Torinojts]

I removed the valve springs on number 3 intake and exhaust valves as they were recessed the deepest in the heads intakes at .052 and exhaust at .070. I installed some test valve springs on and set a dial indicator up on the retainer. Put head back on and torqued down. also by the way #3 cylinder piston protrusion is at .025.

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with my solid lifter in I set the rocker with 0 backlash (this pic is before I set up the intake the same way).

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In the exhaust up stroke and the valve is closing right around .152 I found my valve is closest to the piston.

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In fact so close when I push down the rocker it does not move which would be 0 clearance.

I really want to run this cam but my odds are stacking against me. What I do not have pictured is me checking the Intake valve clearance this way. I checked the Intake valve the same way and have plenty of clearance. I pulled the cam and retarded the cam an extra tooth and checked the clearance on the exh and int. I gained about .010 clearance on the exhaust, but still not enough. I set the cam timing to factory and then I start running into int clearance issues.

as stated piston protrusion .025, exh. valve recessed .070, cam timing is correct and still not enough clearance ***? not sure what I am missing. There is no way some one could take one of these cams, recess the valves all to .060 slap it together and run it. Did I get a bad cam grind??? It just does not add up why I can't get the clearances, I am not going to shave the pistons down, so back to stock cam....any one want a low mileage R&D camshaft??

 

[Philip1]

One option you might be able to consider is headsaver shims. When I had my engine machined they mentioned that it can help if someone took to much material off the head when they decked it.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It just does not add up why I can't get the clearances

Here's another trick that may help (maybe not). As mentioned on here and confirmed by me, Fel-Pro head gaskets are .010" thicker than victor Reinz. Both uncompressed and compressed. If push comes to shove, consider this, your test lifter is solid. I'll bet that even brand new lifters on a cold, fast idle have at least a couple of thousandths give to them. Is this nit picky? Yes, but it could mean the difference between running the stock cam or Justin's.

 

[Torinojts]

The used head gasket I am using is Fel-Pro. I measured my head and it is at 4.783 just under min, I really wish I would have checked them before taking to the machine shop, but still with piston protrusion, valve recessed to .070, correct cam timing and rocker adjusted to just 0 lash I wouldn’t think I would be having any problems.

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Kinda at a loss. Thinking run stock cam. I really cannot see different heads fixing issue. I also do not feel comfortable running a head saver shim.

 

[hacked89]

I'm on board with everything you're saying but don't understand the 0 lash comments on the rockers throughout the posts, since the rockers are fixed on these motors and all you need to do is torque them down to spec once the piston is at the bottom of the stroke.

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[Torinojts]

The 0 lash I am referring to is when checking the piston to valve clearance. To properly check the piston to valve clearance you have install a solid lifter. After a solid lifter is installed you 1. either tighten down the rocker just enough to take out any rocker play (lash) 2. install an adjustable push tube and adjust that to get all valve lash out. Hydraulic lifters that we have simply adjust themselves up until there is no valve lash. If you install a solid lifter and torque our rockers down to spec you will definitely have piston/valve contact, possibly even on a stock cam.