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093 ATS Grommet

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Therkhan7_3Turbo, May 10, 2019.

  1. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Yes I was. Well those and the 6.9s. Unless you're going to be doing some serious detailing in the engine compartment, I think it's a waste of time to do anything else. Of course, if you're doing the detailing in the engine compartment, you're doing more than just pulling the engine. I was talking about only engine replacement.
     
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  2. typ4

    typ4 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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  3. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Registered User

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    Starter, bellhousing, flex plate botls, power steering, fuel return is all thats left.

    I can't tell but is the main harness for motor attached to the big transmission plug? If so I guess I gotta get that too. These are fairly easy to pull apart.. [​IMG][​IMG]

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  4. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Not from what I can remember. I'm about 95% sure that it isn't. Don't forget the ground/s on the back of the head/s. Some trucks have one, some have two, one on each side.
     
  5. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Registered User

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    Thank you I nearly forgot about that.

    Are all 3 starter bolts the same? I'm having a son of a bitch of a time trying to get the one between the motor and solenoid thing...

    Lastly this sounds dumb but are the 2 eyelits safe to pull motor from? I've had a car that had them before and they bent and almost broke, being as this thing is heavy as all **** I really don't want a metal Boulder dangling above me lol.

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  6. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    No. That's a VERY good question. You're probably talking about a GM product. They're built out of very thin metal and do bend. Even their 6.2/6.5 had ones that usually bent when used. These are different. They are actually very safesince they are built heavy enough to pull the engine out. We used to carry complete engines around while hanging off of a forklift by using these hooks. The strater bolts are all three the same. I think that they're the same thing as the factory ones used on gas engines such as a 302 for example. Yes, the one on the top is a HUGE PITA to get out sometimes. I always break the lower ones loose then completely remove the top one. This helps to keep all of the starter weight from hanging on this difficult bolt. If you drop it on the top of the starter, don't worry. It will probably fall on your face when you drop the starter out. Experience talking there.:( When you install the starter, I would get all three bolts started first. Then, while holding the starter up in place (again to keep the weight off of it) tighten the top bolt first. You can usually run the bolt almost all of the way back in by hand using your socket and extensions. Then tighten it up and then the bottom two. What I do next is to hit up on the bottom of the starter using my hand. Do this once or twice. I do this because one time, when we tried to start the truck after installing a reman engine, it wouldn't start. I had to crawl back underneath to look at the starter. I noticed that it hadn't been pulled all of the way tight on the top even though the bolt tightened up. I hit it with my hand a couple of times and it popped upwards. Them I tightened the top bolt all of the way and there wasn't any more starter issue.
     
  7. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Registered User

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    Awesome, and yes it was a 6.5... I'll admit it was fully dressed and wet...

    And yeah that to bolt sucks, I think it is slightly stripped so my 9/16th...? Doesn't fit well I may have to get an open end on it to get it out.

    Luckily E40D doesn't have a TV cable cause I always hated adjusting those.

    I'm hoping with the last couple things on the bottom side and the engine mounts and it's out... Now to hoping it goes back in just as easy... Trying to line up mounts and the transmission dowels will be great.

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  8. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    From the factory, these have a 1/2" head on them. You might try that first. If somebody replaced them with standard bolts, then they probably do have a 9/16" head.
     
  9. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Registered User

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    Lots of bolts on this have been replaced, I'm pretty sure it's been rebuilt at one point, by the fact thay they cut the top bar of the core support and rewelded....

    It probably needs a rebuild again but seeing at how easy it is to pull... I might find another 7.3 motor and put fresh pistons 0.20 over new bearings etc... Love this body style and truck rides like a new f250 honestly.

    Does the power steering pump need the pulley removed to oush it thriugh the bracket? I really don't want to undo the power steering lines, but seems like the pulley is to big to fit thriugh.

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  10. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    Yes the pulley needs to come off, or you can just remove the whole bracket
     
  11. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    It's the easiest way, if not the only way. I can't remember if the bolts will come all the way out if the pulley is still there. When pulling an engine, I just unbolt the power steering pump from the mounting brackets. I'll lay it out of the way and hold it up with something like mechanic's wire. Just watch it while you put the engine back in. It's easy to catch it and break something if you're not paying attention. The core support may not have been cut. Looking back at your pictures, I can see that the welds are in the area where they like to break. Usually from hard use (I believe).
     
  12. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Wes is right. I had forgotten that you have the serpentine belt set up when I posted earlier. Just unbolt the bracket.
     
  13. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Registered User

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    Talk about a pain in the butt to get the turbo out... The slip joint isn't rusted just it doesn't come out really I assume without lifting cab?

    Either way I'm down to 2 top trans bolts. Torque converter bolts, and the 4 engine mount bolts. Turbo is all loose, starter is off all harness and fuel lines are out... If only I had more than an hour or two to work on this per day a week

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  14. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    I understand and hate that feeling. Usually, all of the turbo parts will come out without doing anything to the cab. It's possible that your cab mounts are getting to the point of replacement and may have settled so you may have to jack up the cab a little bit.
     
  15. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Registered User

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    Got the motor up, then realized shit, my carport isn't tall enouhg... took pan off and glued it back on as best as i could with 1100lbs dangling above me in the engine bay. only a couple casualties, Return line on the back of the motor got cut cause It wouldn't come off...

    Transmission cooler lines got crimped, I plan on replacing those with 3/8s compression fittings and line.

    motor is still in the air but waiting for a friend to come by to help me line up the E40D and this behemoth...

    I'm hoping maybe this weekend itll run, I may cut the crimps in the line and run some rubber hose instead for now, just to get it done asap, I plan on getting a bigger and better trans cooler later on, that's when ill do full hard lines.

    New turbo gaskets and drain are on, turbo is half bolted on... Looking at getting a stainless steel braided turbo oil feed line as the hardline at the fitting looks like it leaks... This nightmare is nearly over, next time i pull the motor the front clip is coming off and i'm doing a re-ring.
     

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