1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

093 ATS Grommet

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Therkhan7_3Turbo, May 10, 2019.

  1. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Full Access Member

    Posts:
    58
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    May 10, 2019
    Location:
    FL
    Hi just bought this 94 Ford F250 4x4, traded it for my clapped out 12v 2wd Dodge ( yeah yeah, how dare I? I desperately needed 4x4 )

    Well I thought the pan was leaking bad, so I dropped that ( big mistake but ill fix that with cork gasket and some fun times ) and looked around and saw a MASSIVE oil puddle in the valley, think oh great it's the turbo drain leaking, well apparently no one makes this grommet? Dorman 42334 doesn't seem to exist anymore? Has anyone found something else to seal this up? I absolutely love this drove, it drives amazing, apart from literally pouring oil out the motor.
     
  2. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

    Posts:
    7,393
    Likes Received:
    5,445
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2015
    Location:
    Bulverde, Texas
    I stock the proper grommet, as does typ4 on here. Don’t use a gasket on the oil pan if you don’t like leaks, rtv is actually your friend there.
     
  3. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Full Access Member

    Posts:
    58
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    May 10, 2019
    Location:
    FL
    Yeah, From what I'm being told there's NO WAY to do the pan without pulling the motor... A guy on FB group has a "upgraded" style grommet that says is better than stock, and it comes with all the other turbo gaskets which I'll need.

    Seems ill be pulling this motor out, less than a week into ownership! riveting.
     
  4. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

    Posts:
    7,393
    Likes Received:
    5,445
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2015
    Location:
    Bulverde, Texas
    Are you positive the pan is leaking? Everything drips down from up top onto the oil pan, and can look like it’s the cause when it isn’t. You can replace the pan with the engine in, but it’s easier to pull the engine.
     
    IDIBRONCO likes this.
  5. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Full Access Member

    Posts:
    58
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    May 10, 2019
    Location:
    FL
    It was definitely leaking at the front hump by the balancer. I could see it drip there was no other leak except the turbo at the rear.

    I might try to not pull it, just seems like a lot of work, if I can just bash the firewall with the motor and sneak the pan out I rather do that..
     
    morgankshaw likes this.
  6. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

    Posts:
    7,393
    Likes Received:
    5,445
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2015
    Location:
    Bulverde, Texas
    That would be a front main seal leak from the sounds of it. Much easier
     
    morgankshaw likes this.
  7. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Full Access Member

    Posts:
    58
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    May 10, 2019
    Location:
    FL
    Ah, well I already have the pan off, because I thought it was going to be like every truck I've ever done before, lift motor and it slides out no issue.

    I guess ill order a front main seal too, luckily rear main is dry as a bone.
     
  8. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

    Posts:
    3,602
    Likes Received:
    1,961
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Location:
    edmond, ks
    And you found out differently, didn't you?
     
  9. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Full Access Member

    Posts:
    58
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    May 10, 2019
    Location:
    FL
    Found out differently is an understatement... Oh well, all in the process of learning I guess! my last truck ( 12v ) needed the pan done, and headgaskets, and P pump to be resealed... so just doing turbo gaskets, and oil pan on this thing is easier.. mostly because the motor actually comes out without pulling the cab up.
     
  10. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

    Posts:
    3,602
    Likes Received:
    1,961
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Location:
    edmond, ks
    I understand that one too. I pulled the engine out of a 1992 W250, 4x2 one time. I dropped the 5 speed transmission first. I had to pry it out and then I had to pry it back in. Dodge OBVIOUSLY set the engine in place before they put the cab on. I'm glad that I'll NEVER have to do that job again.
     
  11. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Full Access Member

    Posts:
    58
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    May 10, 2019
    Location:
    FL
    Yeah, that's how I felt, I looked at the proper way to do it, and it's essentially

    Step 1 : Remove Cab
    Step 2 : Remove Motor

    Like great, Let me just go get my gantry crane that I have obviously laying around!

    This looks like ill have more than enough room to pull the motor out, and still have a party, especially that the pan is unbolted already... remove the pick up and ill save myself 4 inches of room.
     
  12. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Full Access Member

    Posts:
    58
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    May 10, 2019
    Location:
    FL
    I have to admit, the community for IDIs is a lot nicer, and more interesting than the 12v forums...

    12v forums is just " REMOVE FUEL PLATE, ROAL COAL BOIZ"
     
  13. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

    Posts:
    3,602
    Likes Received:
    1,961
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Location:
    edmond, ks
    All I remove from the truck when pulling the engine is the hood. I remove the water pump and crank pulleys. I also remove all of the accessories and lay them over to the side without removing anything from them. Some people will tell you to remove the entire front clip to get more room to work, but I've never done this and never will (just to remove the engine). There's plenty of room to work all around the engine and it seems like a HUGE waste of time to take any body part other than the hood off. I'll stand inside the engine compartment to get to the ground wire(s)on the back of the head(s) and the fuel return line at the back of the engine.
     
  14. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Full Access Member

    Posts:
    58
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    May 10, 2019
    Location:
    FL
    Yeah the PO cut the front cross member i guess to remove motor, I was going to pull the 2 accessories with lines ( AC Compressor and PS pump ) remove rad, and fan, and I should have enough room to pull it out, even if I just get the motor high enough where i can sneak my fat ass in there and reinstall pan ( by the time I get in there all the residual oil will have drained ) then do the turbo. I'll see.
     
  15. ttman4

    ttman4 Last Nite's Dream..

    Age:
    68
    Posts:
    643
    Likes Received:
    138
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2005
    Location:
    Hi in the Cascades, Nearly- Redmond,Oregon
    You are talking bout these 7.3s?
    Yeah everytime I've pulled/put one of these engines I've pulled hood, radiator, fan, unbolted bellhousing, few wires & fuel lines, turbo & exhaust, then start lifting, twisting, wiggling..... LOL LOL
     
    IDIBRONCO likes this.

Share This Page